LittleRedSpirit

I can see if a mechanic mate of mine can source them. Try fulcrum, I hate to say it, but they have lots of handy stuff.

Just look for the right whiteline or Noltec ones. They are listed in the catalogue, if you order them through repco or some other retail outlet, and they can ring them and confirm the measurements of the stud pattern and other things you may ask.

Yes its a crock most times. No forum buyers like it. It lives on because there are people out there that get off on what things are worth. Maybe they will sell, maybe they wont. I think it has a place if you name a price as well. Like, "I'm not sure if I will sell but I'd be looking for 4 grand if I did, is anyone keen." That to me is an expression of interest. If its not for you, just take the opportunity to look at a nice car and move on.

can't beat that. I'm gonna lock this one before we teach people any more bad habits. Sorry.

I had 3.6 caster, approx -1.5 a side camber, and zero toe, it was great on the setup I had. Once I got cambertops i went to 2 degrees negative and streeted it heaps with lots of highway ks and had great 98 percent even tyre wear. You just have to hit the bends harder on the on and off ramps to even it out. Slight toe in could be them compensating for a slightly sloppy rack. Thats what my mechanic did when I had a sloppy rack. Hes a smart man. He tells me the good settings and we play around with it heaps. I havent payed him for a wheel alignment in a long while. Top bloke! Thats what you need. You just have to make it clear to the boss that aligner needs to set up what you ask for. And make sure he centres the rack properly or youll have more lock one side than the other and you don't want to find that out when you need the lock.

Don't care as long as the ports are nicely finished. I guess alloy would match everything else, and light weight is a particular goal for this build. Its got intake ports like a bigport, flat sided ovals. So the transition needs to be nice. The shorter the better really, as long as I can get bolts in there. The mounting plate, and throttle face can be parallel.

The fabrication looks good mate, can you ask your boss how much to knock up an itb manifold for my blacktop throttles to suit 2azfe? Oh and glad your back. :)

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=29506

There have been plenty of people get them running ok. They just arent a highly featured pre built unit with much after sales support. For that reason I personally wouldnt be interested in one. If youre in it to learn then thats ok. Thats kinda what its for. :y:

Bad spelling. :P

Get the Yager fitting from um ah, Yager Motorsport. PM SamQ for the rest. Cheers.

I'm not familiar with megasquirt at all, except to say its only as useful as the bloke who puts it together.

The timeline idea is good until you realise that most of us like the older rwd cars. The active fwd people on here could be counted on hands and toes. Do we really want to be staring at a bunch of fwd rollas for the last 6 months of the year? I know I don't. We need to have nominations and a vote. 1 car to a page, and you have to win your spot with a public vote. This gives people something to aim at when building their cars. "i want it tidy enough to get on the rollaclub Calendar!' type of thing.

Everyones just saying the same things over and over again. Until you spend the 30 odd dollars on a service manual you will never know what thickness or tolerance anything should have. Do you really plan to ask the measurement/tolerance of us, not provide pictures and still have us solve a problem for you? Comeon buddy, work with us! People are willing to help you, don't waste their time.

Very tidy. Ive seen worse wheels on a ke70 before, those are tolerable, but Id prefer it with something oldschool. Otherwise, thats a great car to start off with. :P

I don't buy into the hype that call centre people give you about departments and their duties. Ive been redirected so many times that they forgot what was even the reason of the call, and eventually got cut off. Now, the first voice I hear is the one I force to finalise my enquiry. I say, now don't bullshit me, Ive already been transferred 5 times to the appropriate person to help me, so I say your'e it, I'm simply not going to accept transferring again. They always can make it happen. if they start to try and put you on the merry go round again, I get pissed off and demand managers. I really hate call centres.

Well your'e already ahead of the OP. I don't feel comfortable to say over 3500 because there are no pictures, and no gauge to the quality of the workmanship. If OP took the same care and attention typing his posts that he does building cars it would be unfinished and with a lot of loose ends. Thats why I say what I say. Most of us on the forums don't do tidy or original work to their cars. Most people sadly just buy other peoples half broken 25 year old stuff and chuck it in with no reco. I'm not estimating over 3500 without pictures that get me excited. :P A clean car is worth a couple of grand. A good running 16v is worth a grand. I know its rebuilt but you will never ever get that money back. If you rebuilt a motor just to sell a car you made a mistake, financially speaking. Then all the shit to fit the motor runs to another grand. A bit of suspension work easily eats another grand. Other stuff like a 'race seat' could mean anything, locked diffs are crap compared to an lsd, as far as all around driving goes and resale. Good for sliding though. A locker is a dead giveaway that a car is being flogged too. Anyhow, Ive totalled about 4-5 grand in possible bankable features. If its all amazing and sorted its worth that. If it isnt, its worth what someone will pay. :P

AE86 tops in an AE71 will reduce caster by enough that its a bad idea. Just use the AE71 strut tops. With AE71 tops and lowered ae86 suspension running xt130 lower control arms I attained an average of around -1.5 degrees negative camber a side on the front. The top bolt position in the AE71 strut top is slightly different to the AE86.

Laptop only

We stole a motorcycle fuel tank and sat it over the throttle actuator, and just hooked it up to the carb. What else are you supposed to do on a car with a hole in the fuel tank. It was on a Kingswood we bought for a carton. Was good fun doing donuts with no windscreen or doors/bonnet panels, until the battery fell in the fan and it cut out. Its probably still where we left it, minus motorbike tank.

I have an Adaptronic on my 20v motor, and its great. You can connect any sort of idle control, trigger anything for ignition, configure it yourself with generally free base maps to get your car running. There's great after sales support from the fellow who actually designs the ecus (and he is Australian), and his team. If you can't get onto your local rep for them, then you can just deal direct with them in Sydney. They run a forum on their website to help you find what you need and fix problems. Since I have had my ecu they have done perhaps 20 software updates for the ecu which don't affect my settings but generally make it run better and better. They are very soon launching a bigger, better ecu and I'm keen to see how it works too. I didn't do idle control with mine, it idled at about 1600rpm, and I was fine with that. You have to strangle a 20v pretty hard to get idling below 1000 revs, and it never got done. They arent loud at 1600 rpm. It revs to 8000 rpm, its barely spinning at 1600. I used my adaptronic to trigger cop ignition from a 1zzfe, trigger the thermofan, open and close the vapour purge solenoid at different rpm, show digital gauges, trigger sequential shiftlights, all kinds of funny stuff. It triggered vvt no problem. It will also control vvti. Well worth a visit to the website. Make sure in your research you download and install the interface program for each ecu and see how sensible it seems to you, look at the practical implementation of how the features work and are controlled.

If its all done impeccibly tidily and well, Maybe 3500. Otherwise, the only real bankable mods for resale would be the 4age. As it stands, the person who buys it is looking at doing a decent amount of work for rego. Swap out the locker, fix the rust, probably find and fit adr approved seat. Also, there are a couple of things that would concern me regarding the car in general, such as a gloss black spraycan interior, 15x8 superlights (any chance of them being inside properly flared and shaped gaurds?). If you could describe your custom coilover setup? What shocks does it run, as it will be cut down to suit some shock, maybe sv21, sw20, ae92, or short stroke ae86 shocks? What brand is the seat? Disclose all the rust, put up some pictures etc and we will give you a better idea. Bear in mind none of us have any chance of recouping anything like whats been spent.

Its not too hard, infact its all logical. Strut tops are car specific in all but a few cases. Several cars share bolt patterns but the caster position is frequently different (AE86 and KE70 are good example of this). Everyone has said a million times xt130 lower control arms fit and give camber. If you want to know what to do to fit the new struts, just grab the stuts and get to work. By now you would already know you can use them. You will work out what you can and can't do when things do or don't work. Why would you start mish mashing brakes? don't you want to fit the struts complete? Don't the struts have bigger better brakes than a ke? Whats a logical conclusion to draw? Use the brakes on the strut perhaps? People are more inclined to give you answers to intelligent questions that ask for specific answers to specific questions. General requests for a complete program and parts list of how to do a certain mod are often not well received, and with good reason. However, if people see that you have put some thought and effort into it, they will generally encourage and support you. :P

It doesnt matter. T18/XT130/AE86/RT132 struts fit the balljoint the same way on the lca as all these other old macpherson strut toyotas. Use the steering arms that came with the struts you want to use. You can swap the strut tops to your original ones from the AE71 struts and anything will fit. Leave youre lower control arms alone, unless youre fitting XT130 ones which are longer but basically the same in how they fit and attach to the swaybar and car. Once you have a set of 2 inch struts installed, you can look for TRD, Koni, Bilstein, Tokico, KYB, etc dampers that will be perfect. You will also find that most short stroke shocks are shorter length inserts in both body and stroke. This means that you really should cut the strut tubes down and fit a coilover kit. You can have strut tube spacers turned up but its not the ideal situation.

A 20v is a drivers engine. Its designed for a pilot who is willing to keep revs up, heel toe, and really work the car. If you want to push your foot down and beat people in a straight line, there are far torquier motors that will give the desired result. A 20v in any rolla is a good handling package, rwd or fwd. Start with bigger more powerful motors to get speed, or boost the 20v, which is an exxy excercise (a bit cheaper to do in fwd as the conventionally available turbo manifolds, inlet and out, will usually work).