LittleRedSpirit

The older Hilux motors are becoming a popular choice for high boost builds - 2rz or 3rz. I'm not too up on these new ones. I dare say getting one for under 6k or so will be impossible until the new hiluxs have been around for at least ten years. Probably a pretty good motor though. Does it have balance shafts? I dare say it does, as a lot of larger capacity inline 4 Toyota motors will, and they will make more hp with them removed, but shake like Michael J Fox at idle.

my diff whines at 60-70klm/hr and only at less than 4% throttle. They can be funny things. I don't see why a car that has had a 4 speed all its life wouldnt whine. I prescribe a trip to the parts fairy to source a 5 speed and a 4.3:1 diff from an auto ke70.

SRE-55

Oh man, ever heard of skid rims? Thats a wicked shame, possibly fixable if you know someone good, or slydar from dc can probably get you a new outer. Otherwise, its all looking nice. Another thing you can do to clear the caster you run for drifting with big wheels and standard gaurds is to simply fold a crease along from where the little metal arm holds the bottom of the gaurd, to the line in the body down the bottom there. You just kind of tip the corner out, no need to cut anything, you only really need about 15-20mm to be really safe from catching it and if you do it to both sides it looks factory. I did it on the red car and the lip fitted snug over it, so you couldn't really see it, but there was clearance there. here is a picture of it without the lip. I like it because you see less wheel sticking out as well which helps make it look a little sleepier. Do you reckon that type of bend would clear your wheels?

323 rwd Mazdas. I love the Panos, and even though they are ugly as sin, the 3 door is as close to a kp61 starlet as you will get in Australia.

Enough c4 to blow it to shrapnell. I Kid I kid. My mate has a CA in a TG thats pretty nuts.

I can guarantee that it wasn't scratched before I shipped it, if its happened, its not my fault, and has been done after it came from the box. I only ever removed one from the plastic sleeve it came in and that was Haos one, which he collected first. There would have been fingerprints all over it if I had handled it. Anyhow, have a good one, maybe you can polish it out.

It shocks me how so many people have been using this US crisis to sink the boot into Holden. Holden is far from in the hands of administrators. Holden is a long standing company that has serviced our market for a long time, and brought out cars specifically for our market, a lot of which have been rwd and quite fast or cool or practical. Thats a lot more than Toyota has tried to do in my opinion, as there is only so many names you can use for a Camry. I hope Holden gets sold to an Australian company or individual. Then it can be wholly ours and not risk being dragged down by the US and their constant line of terrible decisions. Id like to see Holden employees with secure jobs and futures. All brand loyalty aside, Aussies are Aussies and I support them. The Americans can go to hell with their tanks and terrible Mileage. I mean GM has been making 25 kinds of the same thing for about 40 years now, and most people haven't appreciated it for the last 15 or so. I'm amazed they lasted this long without realising how many changes need to be made to move forward. Compare GM to Ford for a moment. Ford have started making smaller more economical cars in the last 25 years, I wonder why GM missed the boat. I mean Ford are the kind of company that has also been selling us the same crap for 40 years, but they had the good sense to expand the product range beyond 25 types of the same thing, and to scale down the proportion of large cars they make, in line with sales. Ive always been critical of Ford for using a lot of old technology and making few model changes, I'm now starting to see they have been more progressive than I had given them credit for with cars like the Focus coming into the line up.

Either the breather line or charcoal cannister is blocked. Have a very close look at all the fuel lines with the car running on a hoist. Check for leaks and stuff.

Brace yourself for the arrival of one clear cam gear cover in the next few days.

Great news! All the best, my friend, hope Mrs Dwarf is feeling good too. :rolla:

If he has a motor lying around, and thats why he wants to use it, do you think he would want to go and spend over a grand, maybe 2, on an aftermarket engine management system? If you are going to that extent you may as well buy a Silvertop, as you will be doing all the work to fit one for a lesser result. Firewall mods are the silliest way to make it fit in my opinion. Hammering it is just plain cringe-worthy, especially to create the amount of clearance that you need for the distributor to fit. Removing it is the only option. However it doesnt make much sense to spend 3-4 grand all up to fit a motor you had lying around.

Those trumpets are awesome but I'm not sure if they fit. I had 80mm long ones that needed to be cut around the brake booster. I would hate to see these getting butchered, being nice billett ones and all. Fingers crossed, how long are they?

My paddock car got around fine on cutties and standard shocks. That is until the bush cups broke off the rear shockies and sprayed oil everywhere. Once replaced with short stroke commodoore shockies Ive had no problems. (343 113) for the rear chocks I used.

Missed it by that much. You realise the 20v conversion guide was one post over from where you clicked on this thread? Read first, post questions after.

I stand corrected. Thats right, it is Cfrown that has F series, Ive seen cressidas with both F and G series before. Ke70 diffs are 1410mm wide. So the RN4x seems like the pick. Id still go f series over the G for your application. For the above reasons.

I think even the narrowest Hilux diffs will add a small amoutn of track, Ive heard 30mm a side but i cannot confirm this as Ive not done it myself. Just make sure you use an F series Hilux diff so that you can use aftermarke tlsd centres made for the lexus Is200 altezza. I think you might find you can buy spools for them too if you ask around at auto parts stores.

Very nice. I wondered if that sheet metal panhard mount might have been flimsy. With all the modding going on I thought you might putt in watts link stuff? :y:

Nobody really ever looked at the red car more than once. Theres something about crappy standard paint that nobody likes to look at.

The 1mz and 2gr are worth considering for their light weight. Otherwise, v6 isnt the right choice. No steel blocks please with a motor that large, or it will be too hard to handle. If you want to make a drift pig, there are lots of motors that can do it. If you want to up the capacity and go na for reliability then have a look at 3sge, 5sfe, 3rz, something like that, perhaps. Then there's also other companies like Nissan and Subaru that make some interesting motors. If you just want maximum bang for buck, sr20 turbo, ca18 turbo, something thats cheap, inline 4, available in halfcuts all day long and has a tonne of tuning knowledge. If you want to build a nice tidy setup as a project that is all Toyota then maybe a rwd 3sgte, takes some extra work but is worth it in the end. At the end of the day, the easiest way to get the power you desire, not necessarily the cheapest is to build a 4agte for it and use all the mounts and hardware thats in the car. You'd be looking for a 4agze, manifold, intercooler, piping, an old gt28rs, etc etc. Motor bolts in easy, use a cast manifold for strength. Many people claim a nicely maintained stock gze will take years of abuse. The T50 transmission will prove a thorn in your side though. You would end up swapping it for a w55, thats the expensive part. The 4a engine just sits there so nicely, its a hard option to pass over. Balance and handling wise its the right motor for the chassis, as delivered.

The only area where the starter wire and reverse switch wires are together is in the little engine loom that connects them. It plugs in near the brake booster and runs the trigger for the starter, reverse lights, temp sender, and oil pressure switch. Id remove it, strip off the conduit or tape and inspect the wires. Its not an auto electricians take on it but its a start.

So happy for you mate. Have a great time! That yager thing sure doesnt waste any space for you. Its tucked in there tight. :lol: Watch out fot these guys. You wont be tired of working on it when you can drive it and see what difference your work has made after. Are you gonna take the front engine mount off? Looks like crap sticking out there.

All I remember was it was a van, econovan I think, but I'm not sure.

Just remove that thing, my pictures will show you more clearly what I did.

You'd have to be crazy to grind anything off the quads. No way did I do that. I just filed the yager fitting off at the sides to clear the quads, which was just kind of smoothing one edge of it around where a stud mounts. To fit it I had to remove this large steel array of vaccum and fuel return lines under the quads. I ran the fuel return in efi hose tucked up under the throttles, and the vacuum port was just for the brake booster and there is two of them, so it was deleted with a bolt and sealing washer.