LittleRedSpirit

thats my user gallery if you are wondering...

Hmmm. I think youve totally misunderstood my point. Missed it by a mile. The point isnt the number, the point is that it will put down more power in an 'equivalent' fwd setup. That is a known fact. If you put your 85KW fwd motor in rwd it will put down less than 85kw at the wheels. Thats quite clearly what I'm saying. Its completely irreleveant how bad someones tired old fwd 20v is. What about all the fresh rwd setups which pump out 100kw at the wheels with the cooling system backwards? Ive heard of three different setups which achieve this, all silvertops. Imagine if they had a blacktop, there might be another pony or two on the chart. Have a look at SamQs dyno sheet. Homemade exhaust, water fittings and inlet manifold good for 100kw atw. Anthony Kellam recently told me of a stock silvertop that he tuned and it pulled 100kw atw. Peak power is nothing anyhow. If its tuned well it will have good torque and drive very well. Its not often your bouncing off the rev limiter, so peak power shouldnt be your goal on a pure street car. I'm surprised someone like yourself would go claiming so many dyno numbers, when every dyno is different. I reckon if I had my Silvertop on the same dyno same day as your 16v when it pulled 75KW atw, Id have pulled 95kw atw, as my motor actually runs like new and has a very good tune on it, seemingly unlike a lot of the setups youve mentioned. Also, the majority of 20vs are in engine conversions in Australia so its a harder thing to compare power because every setup is going to be a bit individual. The other point I make is the Blacktops especially don't like to run a stock ecu and our fuel. From all accounts ive heard they just don't run quite right on anything less than 100 octane. The Knock sensor is overactive and probably puts you on the safe timing map for the top end, thus limiting peak power. If you really want to harness what a 20v can do on out fuel you need a programable ecu, IMO.

Awesome. can't wait to see you driving this rig around!

I think everyones overlooked the fact that a fwd car makes more power at the wheels with the same engine because its drivetrain drag is reduced compared to a rwd driveline. If its 90kw atw in fwd its probably going to be 85 kw in rwd. Also, the 20v power figures werent inflated, IMO. People forget that there are several HP scales accross the world and not all of them quantify a hp the same way. Also, they are a Japan market only engine that was designed to run better fuel than we have here in Australia. Id say that would account for a couple of missing hp on Australian setups featuring this motor. When people rwd them they switch the cooling system in such a way as it heats the intake (myself included) compared to the factory cooling system. Ill say this. A 20v goes great in a fwd corolla. If I wanted a 20v in a fwd car I'd import a 6 speed AE111 and tune that over any domestic car.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=11184 Here is our clubs less than long list. I'm sure there are more members with times...

You will find the chassis has as much of an impact on the time as the motor. Not every 20v car is gonna pull even a similar time. Most would be somewhere from 15-18 seconds for stock motors. Are you asking front wheel or rear wheel drive times? In my opinion a well set up manual street RWD 20v with good gearing (4.3-4.5:1) and some drag specific suspension tuning could do no better than 15 seconds flat for the 1/4 mile. The limitation being you can't really snap second at top revs with a t50, and the motor wont have the torque to pull 2nd off the line with any great force. You are kind of limited to pulling 6500 revs in first or its a 50-50 shot at getting second. There is a roughly 500hp+ boosted 20v called 'Backyarder'. Search youtube. That little Front wheeler really hammers. I think its got a Rigoli Performance engine from memory, I may be wrong. Its sub 10 second material when it gets traction. What car are you talking about?

Id prefer copper brass for a street car. The standard radiator in my car was brilliant once a fresh core was fitted. What type of vehicle are you talking about? Does it have a modified engine?

Look hideous to me. Why don't you buy some and try to fit them, just as a suggestion.

Your correct in your logic IMO, but who knows how Toyota coded it. Error codes for the win. Might be just a bung ground ruining a signal or something.

No biggie. Wiki is usually my first port of call for basic engine specs and research.

When wiki answers, you shouldnt be asking the question. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine

Id pick the one that runs the best, and with the most clean body. I'm happy to do major mods if need be however. Theres too many fast cars in this world with zero maintenance. Id buy the one that is less of a lemon, whichever that is.

I don't use the speed snesor, Ive never had one and Ive also always been able to rev over 6500. All the way to 8300 in fact. The key difference is I didnt use the Toyota ECU, instead a programmable adaptronic. I have read about this issue many times. Its always sensor or error code related. The ecu is protecting your engine. I'm of the belief that if you got it, flaunt it. Even if a sensor is going to only make things 2% better, its worth connecting. An oxygen sensor is a wonderful thing to install. Thats free fuel economy right there. 20vs will idle at about 1600 rpm without the ISCV, so Id use it if I could. If the ecu wants speed sensor input, give it to it. She knows what she likes. Perhaps you could put up some pics of the setup around the throttles? Good Luck.

Connect all the sensors or the ecu will freeak out. What about the knock sensor? The ISCV is good I don't know why you wouldnt use it. You will need to find the error codes and see what its grumbling about.

Pics of the 81 coupe will be required. Just cause I want to see it mainly... Id say it will fit. You may have to mod the firewall and most likely the front tranny tunnel area also. It all depends on which gearbox and engine combo you use. Chev, Toyota, Nissan, Ford, theres probably like 6 more in the US I can't be bothered considering. One side will have issues with the heads or exhaust going close to the steering. Sump might need work, just the usual stuff. Theres only one way to find out. id be selecting the lightest v8 i could get, perhaps an LS1 or 1UZ. A v6 would be great, one of the new all alloy GR v6 motors would go almost as hard and weigh far less on the front wheels.

Hey nice car Roo. I dunno whats going on there, but I thought conventional wisdom had the swaybar attaching to the diff and the body. I can't work out what that will do, except maybe stopping tramp? Seems odd, I'm sure from another angle we could see whats going on better... I have little to no experience tuning leaf rear ends.

Thats a very nice ae71 you have there. If you fit some bbs rims it will look very euro thanks to the silver, IMO. Nice build.

Sounds about right. If you have a brain you can use the info about the speed to calculate engine rpm, going by what gear you were in and what your final drive ratio is. If you had asked your tuner for a printout with different variables on the axis of the graph such as air fuel ratio, rpm, torque etc. What breed of dyno did he have? Ive used dyno dynamics before and always got a printout. Most Ive seen with a similar setup to yours will peak power between 6300 and 6700.

Yeah thats the other option, just weld a manual tunnel into the perfect spot, bit of a shitter but nothing too hard. Fabrication is half the fun. The other half would be driving.

Use the manual boot as a template. Drill 4 holes. Get 4 m6 nuts and bolts then do them up to retain the thing. If you want it to be most factory, then perhaps you could get under there, pop the box out of the way, and spot weld the nuts under the car, basically making it like how the manual tunnel is, with the threads fixed into the car. The auto hole is longer and skinnier from memory, Id measure the rough sized spot you need to fill and go wreckers hunting till i find something that fits the auto console and covers the whole hole, then Id do the above to fix it there. I have an auto console here, so i may be able adapt that to my jdm ae86 rubber boot which has a similar shape to the auto cutout, and is bulkier and bigger in general than the rubber boot on the kes. You'd be best to try and copy the way Toyota did it, so it doesn't look modified or anything. Worst comes to worst, you can weld some sheet metal into the tunnel to cover the exposed parts of the hole if their is any.

Moved topic to General mechanical.

Nice buggy mate. Looks quite fun to say the least. I'm not too good on solid technical info for the cams but Ill try. Id suggest some decent camshafts from Toda or HKS. Bear in mind a 20v in general costs more to work than a 16v, but I think its worth it. You could also try Ivan Tighe Cams, he can supply or make what you need. I once enquired with him and he was able to supply cams for around $1000 from memory, which is a darn good price, IMO. You may want to add in a pair of adjustable cam gears also, to make the most of the set of cams you get. If you push the duration out beyond approximately 270 duration on the inlet you will need to remove the vvt pulley and put on a normal cam gear. The question is, how much hp do you want, and where do you want your power spread to be best. Do you want to go solid to 8000rpm, 9000rpm? How far did you want to push it. Bear in mind you can only really trust the factory oil pump to 8500 or 9000 in extremes. Does your buggy run a dry sump? Or any electric oil pump boost?

I think youd be fine with adm brakes for now. Ventilated discs only really aide cooling and recovery of the brakes between stops. If you just want it safe and comfy then adm brakes give equal ability to stop to jdm brakes, they just wont be as awesome to flog. You can run a brake booster from a ke30 1976, or some ke55s, which bolts all up the same way and is a smaller diameter, slightly longer unit. This way you can fit unmolested trumpets and filters, to a better extent than usual.

Well, without being really familiar with the motor, Ill do my best. Pros: Its already rwd, so getting a box and clutch sorted is easy. Ditto with the cooling system and manifolds. Cons: Might be heavy (untested theory) compared to other newer toyota motors if its a steel block and that high in capacity, as most new gen motors are alloy now. The gearbox will probably mean you need to mod the tunnel. Will be set up for lumps of toque so will be exciting but not super sporty feeling without more revs. Will need an uprated diff (which is a good upgrade to do). I think the next step is to get your hands physically on one and measure up the engine and box to see how it fits, what the sump looks like, if anything fouls the steering, where the shifter will sit in the car, how much it weighs, if its too tall, too long or too wide, how the cooling system looks, whether the manifolds fit etc. Once you've done all that and crossed your ts and dotted your Is' you may have a plan, or you may have realised its fraught with difficulty. At the bare minimum, you will be massaging the firewall and trans tunnel, making crossmembers and mounts, and you may as well get the diff from the lux to complete the toughest driveline around. Will be very expensive to fit, however, Id allow up to a grand to shorten and reweld the mounts to suit your own car. Id be most worried about the tunnel clearance and the height of the thing, as a lot of toyota inline 4s are tall nowadays. They get slanted over frequently in new cars.

Its more likely got the wrong cog in the gearbox, for a different final drive ratio. There is a small cog in the box (on the speedo drive I think) that sets the relative number of turns for a different final drive ratio. This is most likely your problem. You have to order the right cog from Toyota or try to find a compatible one from another box. Luckily I have a 4.3 diff and jdm t50 from an ae86 so my speedo is spot on. Was his car a manual or auto ke70 to begin with? From memory, the auto had a 4.3:1 final drive, and I think manuals had 4.1. AE71 Manuals are 3.9 so unless you have a 3.9 diff installed your speedo will be out (assuming you used an ae71 t50).