altezzaclub

+1 for MechanicalSympathy... It is at the biggest end of engine swaps and $10k goes nowhere unless you're a mechanical engineer with a vast knowledge of how to modify cars.

Nice work! They make a great motorsport car all round.

lol- what happened to "measure twice, cut once!" That's a pretty damm serious tank! Nice to be able to fab up stuff like that.

Two ways of doing it- Cylinders one and four move up and down together, and cyls two and three do also, but 180deg away from 1& 4. They fire in the order 1.3.4.2. A)- Turn the motor over with a spanner on the crank pulley and watch the rockers on number four. As the inlet opens and the exhaust closes you can get the valves equally open, and you will see the timing mark come up to zero. Then number 4 is on exhaust stroke and number one is on compression. Set number one, 10thou inlet, 12thou exhaust cold. Next cylinder to fire is three, so watch cyl 2 rockers as you turn the crank and when they both are equally open, set number three. Then watch cyl one, you'll get the timing mark again, and set four, and finally watch cyl three and when they both are equal set cyl two. Most people do it like that. The option is the 'Rule of Nine'... B)- When one rocker is right down, the rocker that adds up to nine can be set, so you just number the rockers 1 to 8 as you see them on the motor. They pick 'right down' because the valve is only at max opening for a short time, so you can easily see that. So just turn the engine and watch a rocker, say number one, on cylinder one. When it is right down, set number 8, look for another , say number 3, and when it is at max open set number 6.. You just work your way around the engine until you have done them all. Sadly, some never shut up! The valve wears a groove in the end of the rocker, and your feeler gauges bridge that groove, so the gap is a few thou larger than you measure. The follower can get a groove where it runs on the cam and that clicks every time too. With a race/rally motor we set the cam to the degree when it should open on a dial gauge and close the tappet up on that.

20minutes to swap the locker for the stocker at the trackside... or even swap it at home before you drive to the drift track. Did you pay much for it? It seems like just the car to avoid when you bought it, but its turning out nice now.

Usually it is understeer in and oversteer out, and you will be busy on the wheel all the time unless you're on a smooth stock-car circuit! The REAL ideal is a sharp turn-in and a constant, predicable slight 4-wheel drift as you power on, buts that one of those rare corners where you think "Faaark ! I'm good!" More castor gives more self-centering. Go for the max! You'll have to adjust toe afterwards. Do that before trying bars back on, but I expect you to need a front bar to give it understeer, allowing the rear more of the grip. The castor will give you self-centering and sharper turn-in, but once the wheel is almost straight it won't have an effect, leaving you with the tail hanging out. The front swaybar will make the nose slide more mid-corner, you'll have to see if that counteracts the tail hanging out or not. You only have so much grip available, all you can do is split it between front and rear, left and right. A good start would be to to soften the rear suspension to get more weight transfer rearward and hence more rear grip when you accelerate. Plan 'C' involves putting toe-in on the rear axle with an industrial press!! Battery in the boot?? Steve drives like this all the time! That's why I'm hoping a front sway will increase his speed without ruining how the car feels. Rally tyres will make a big difference, so when you have the car how you like it, borrow some rally tyres and go for a blast to see what they do. You might need a different setup with them, and the sooner you find out the better, rather than as you head off down Stage One.

This guy bought a new windscreen- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/617756/1975-toyota-corolla/page-3/

Philbey does a panhard help on that, or will the traction bars be enough?

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/57115-ke55-rear-end-options/page__st__15 Do what oh-what-a-nissan-feeling! did- or move them inwards and raise them up to the axle.

Actually you'll have to test 4 options of course! No sway bars- should grip Front sway only- should understeer Rear sway only- should oversteer Both sways on- should slide Should be fun!

Can't be hard- Although I'd make a pair to go beside the springs rather than underneath and not lose the road height. That would mean welding a foot onto the diff on each side. and while you're there you might as well make a panhard rod!! Just search anti-tramp bars in google images.

More research needed. Can you get some measurements on each of the types? Coronas are shorter than Sigmas, and they bolt straight into the KE70 to give zero camber, (well, minus 1/4deg) and the KE55 are the same as the Corona Sigmas are pretty extreme.

Ok, I have Steve doing this on the rally car this month. Basically you need to write down what you want in the car, including spotlight wiring and navigator's light, and a couple of LED interior lights .. plus maybe one in the boot and two under the bonnet in case you are stuck in the middle of the night somewhere. Then decide which wires are live as soon as you turn on the kill switch, and which wires are only live when you turn the key on. Assign fuses according to what the maximum load will be, as the manufacturers do. You can stick with their system and add an extra fuse per pair of spotlights if you like. Then pull the wiring out of the car and identify which wire is which. Do it one loomb at a time, you probably won't have much to worry about towards the rear of the car. Cut out the wires you DON'T want, add the ones you decided you needed as extras, and put it back in the car. Throw out the fusible links and fit fuses off the kill switch. One for the 'start' button, one for the headlights/brakelights (permanently powered) and one for the rest of the car ('On' only when key is on) You'll have some extras if you're using electric fuel pumps and injectors with ECU and sensors. Easy enough to incorporate. Then throw away the exess 10kg of wire, most of the dashboard and stacks of switches and lights you don't need.. OK, the pictures are too small when saved on the server, so if you want them you'll have to PM me. They go from 1Mb to 80Kb

We cut a leaf from a spare spring set and mounted it upside down on Rob's KE55 khana car. It was clamped onto the leaf pack at the front and extended behind the axle slightly to get clamped by the U-bolts. Taking the bottom (stiffest) leaf out gave room for it. Sadly things changed and we never got to use the car enough after that to really make sure what difference it made. We'll get back into it in a year or two...

Don't forget to do a compression test before you start it. I have had bent valves that gave no visible evidence of being bent and there were no marks on the pistons, I had to roll them across a desk to see the stem wobble, they stood up straight and looked OK except the seating area was worn on one side. The car ran, but didn't want to start. All valves were the same, two cyl had about 100psi and two had 30psi, but you're only losing one cyinder.

This is what happens when you let Govt and their parasites interfere with the free market! http://www.cato.org/blog/raisin-farmers-have-constitutional-rights-too Basically they said that the Hornes couldn't challenge the Govt's taking of their production until they had paid the fines and cleared the charges arising from them not handing their goods over to the Govt. So even if the Govt use a quite illegal method to say you owe them money, you are not allowed to challenge that in court until you have paid what they want! ..and if you want to see rank stupidity in Govt Depts, the Orange City Council has agreed to pay a foreign-owned company about a million dollars of ratepayers money to stop them closing down! So some smart mobster from Electrolux goes to the Council and threatens them with closing the plant and firing the 550 workers if the Council don't hand over the cash. The Council caves in, not realising that there is NEVER an end to this sort of crime, the criminal always comes back for more once you give in... a page straight out of the Book of Holden and Ford! Meanwhile my rates will go up to hand the cash over to a private company who will take the money back to Sweden! Eventually they will bleed the Council dry THEN fire the workers, so we might as well do that right now! It is so morally wrong I can't believe these clowns do it!!

I think only slapper bars are illegal as they are not fixed to the chassis. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-770501.jpg

Are we talking KE70 here?? They shouldn't axle-tramp at all really. The leaf spring rear ends are where it happens, and even a 4K on dirt will tramp all over the place if you can't control the spring winding up.

ouch! Is the final bid taking a grinder to one end and cutting the head right off the bolt, then smacking it out with a drift & a six-pound hammer?

I'd be very surprised if it is the gearbox. Is it automatic or manual? So it misfires under load. The higher gears (3rd instead of 2nd and 4th instead of 3rd) make the engine work harder. Everything like the coil and the plugs and the fuel feed in the carb has to work harder, and something is breaking down. It sounds electrical still from that problem, but you've changed everything except the coil. Try another coil before you leave on your trip and check for broken wires on the coil/distributor. That is very odd. Certainly it suggests something electrical. It could still be in the ignition circuit itself, but I can't see why it would break down under load. The wire from the key to the ballast, or the ballast to the coil, or coil to dizzy. Does the red 'charge' light come on when it breaks down before the motor is stopped??

OK, lets go over it- You've put in new- plugs, points, condensor, leads, dizzy cap, but not coil. You've had the Nikki carb on for a few years and had the problem that long too. It has the window so you know the petrol is at the right level when you look.. You had a top overhaul recently, so I expect they checked tappet gaps and set plug gap and points gap and timing. That stopped the jerking problem for a few days. Did they take the head off, do you know? It starts slowly and coughs, and sometimes runs the battery flat. It jerks and dies if you accelerate up to 60kph. So..... If you haven't changed the coil then get another and try it, either a new one or swap with another car that works OK, just to see. If the other coil doesn't solve the problem of jerking then lets look at the carb. Go driving and when it jerks turn the motor off immediately and coast to a stop. Check the petrol level in the carb window. We want to make sure it is not low when it jerks but OK when it idles. Watch down the carb as you open the throttle quickly and see that a jet of petrol gets squirted down the throat by the accelerator pump. Check how the second throttle opens, either a vacuum diaphram or a mechanical linkage. Maybe the first half of the carb is working, (slow speed) but the other throat (more power) isn't opening. See if there are numbers on the throats telling you how big they are. If it looks like the throttles are working OK, then you will have to pull the carb to pieces and check the jets and drillings to make sure one is not blocked. That is when you note the numbers on the jets so you can see if it is a carb designed for an 1800cc and your motor is too small to make it work properly. It may be too lean at 60kph to accelerate, but if you sneak up to speed slowly it is OK.

What vehicles were released in Aussie with 5Ks?? Where should we be looking for them?

If it has always been like that then I can imagine servicing it might not fix it. However if that problem has arisen since you've owned it then the reservice missed something. The first thing I'd suspect would be the float level. If it lets the petrol get too high in the bowl it will just pour into the motor. Are all the vacuum lines connected correctly? If someone has plugged them then you'd need to know what each one did and was it affecting fuel usage. I'm sure the carb ran better than that when it came out of the factory, so you should be able to get it back to original. Don't forget a change to another carb will bring a stack of new problems as that carb will have been designed for its own set of vacuum lines on another motor.

Ok, you've probably found the whole problem for it jerking. Get new high-tension leads for the coil and the 4 spark plugs, and a new distributor cap. Those are the only wires that carry more then 12volts, so the other wires in the car don't lose electricity very easily. 10degrees is correct for timing, so that was no problem. A- I use the biggest wire I can find for the earth from the motor back to the chassis, & same for chassis to battery. If you can find a battery positive + cable off another car that has the right terminals, use that. The other wires around the car vary according to what load they take, the headlights need bigger wires than indicators or horn or the dashboard wires. B-Here's the wiring diagram. The wires used when you turn on the ignition are marked in green, the wires used when you turn the key to 'start' are marked in red..

Brilliant fun! I usd to love organising and doing them! Put four or five pet-food tins out with tea candles in, give the navigator a little water pistol and time the cars on how long it takes to drive around in a cicle shootng the candles out. Put a styrene cup of water on the scuttle just in front of the windscreen and time how long it takes to go around two cones in a figure-8 without splilling any. Man, there were dozens of little tests we did in the middle of treasure hunts.