altezzaclub

What happens when you hit the starter after 12hours?? Any noises?

Sadly true- Maybe this is why mine never overheats... While I had the head off I cleaned out the water jackets with a screwdriver and a bit of #8 wire. I was amazed at the amount of stuff that came out, and how it bridged the jackets and blocked them up. I never took the pistons out, so the block was never dipped.

lol! OK, put a 100deg thermometer in the radiator and see what the temp really goes up to when idling. I wouldn't trust the sensor or the guage really, unless it was non-electrical. Ours never goes above the 1/3 mark on the gauge, having been through the hassles of wires and sensors and new sensors that don't work.. Which I found out by using a thermometer! Measure the cold & hot resistance of the sensor in a saucepan with a multimeter and compare that to the maker's specs. What AF ratio is it idling at?? The idle circuit feeds the motor up to 2500rpm or thereabouts, so it has a long effect. Also, can you see the effect of the pump jet when you boot it? An instant lean then very rich then back to normal step up and down. Taking off means the pump should make it instant rich to help the idle jet get it moving up to where the main circuit cuts in. Then cruise should be just the main circuit controlling it, which is fuel jet, air jet and float level. If its rich, say more fuel than 15 or 16 to 1, you should tackle that problem first- wrong fuel jet? Air jet blocked? Float level too high? That's the main (and simplest) part of a carb's work. The SUs cruise at 100kph at 16 to 18 and will go up a slight incline at that if I just squeeze the throttle. Once you have constant throttle cruise sorted then tackle the idle and acceleration. Do you think the second throat is working on your rich mid-full throttle? Hard to check unless you take the bonnet off I suppose, although a webcam under the bonnet is good...

good grief- OK, and the holes are asymmetric so you can't turn it around. Anyone got stub axle measurements on AE86 and XT130 Coronas?

Why do you lose castor?? I thought that only happened when you lowered the car. The castor rod bolts to the LCA in the same place, the strut top must be pretty close to original in the turret... is it a factor of the strut base postion in the steering arm??

That's very close, only 4thou. The pros & cons are- Big tappets gaps- valves don't open as far, and open late and close early, so they spend more time shut and make the cam less 'cammy'. The exhaust valves get time to cool well by transfering their heat to the seat. The valves get opened and closed more agressively as they are hit by the cam flank more than the ramp and get slapped open and closed.. Small tappet gaps make full use of the cam ramp to open & close gently. The tappets are quieter and the cam more cammy as the valves open earlier and close later. Hence the exhausts spend less time on their seats getting rid of the heat. You also push more compression back out the inlet valves as it closes late. I don't know which factors are important in a 4K, they're pretty under-developed and bulletproof anyway, You could set the tappets with a piece of wire, so it fits in the rocker groove. I've done that before... or get the rockers re-faced. I'll tell you something funny to try- set them using the "rule of nine", so you set rocker #6 with #3 on wide open (easy to see it rocking over the cam nose). and set #4 with #5 wide open.. so they add up to 9. Then check them all by putting each cylinder on TDC and checking the gaps. Both methods are widely used but give different results!

Take another look at the choke mechanism. It does two things, holding up the idle speed and also richening the mixture with the flap over the carb throat. I can't remember how they interact and how adjustable they are, but my SUs just hold the throttle open until the chokje is halfway out, then pulling the choke further actually richens it. That interaction is quite adjustable. Find out if it is closing the choke flap immediately you pull the choke knob, and if that can be altered. I've got my old carb out on permanent loan so I can't go and have a look... Stick up a couple of photos of the choke setup if you get stuck.

Well, your Englsh is much better than my Finnish! I assume Toyota started off with 4K #1 and went to 4K #999999 in numerical order, its not like chassis numbers in newer cars which are all in codes. So you know that 4K 33586 is an older engine than 4K 189776, but you don't know how many Km they have done.

K50 is the same 4speed with a 5th overdrive tacked on behind it. It drops the revs about 300rpm at 3000, so at 100kph its handy to get the revs below 3500. I'm still running the 4.3 auto diff the car came with and 13" wheels, so it accelerates well around town and we just use 4th. On a trip I fit fat 14" tyres so the sparkle around town vanishes but the cruise revs in 5th turn in around 7L/100k. Around town the 5speed doesn't help, but the auto diff makes it get away faster. If it is all tuned to factory specs then a better carb setup, extractors & exhaust, and a cam cut is the only way to improve it.... unless you want a turbo... The Weber 32/36 is cheapest carb, the Hurricane extractors are the only ones around now, and the cam cut will move the power curve up and give greater peak power.

Yep- if the screws don't fix it, that is most likely.

I think they're on the rear of the carb, passenger's side, although its a few years since I had a stock carb around. Just follow the throttle cable, it will lead to the idle speed screw and the idle mixture screw will be nearby. Make sure the choke isn't holding the idle on when the motor is warm, or maybe the choke cable is set up too tight. Does it do eveything else as it should?

The rocker ends wear into an inverted U-shape as the valve stem tip wears them away, so the feeler gauge bridges the 'U' and gives a false reading. You sett hem to .2mm and the valve stem sees a .35mm gap to close. We used to set them using a dial gauge, a fair bit of messing around but you made the valve open at the correct time no matter what the gap was. The KE70 currently clatters for exactly your reason as I cbf going to all that trouble. Its just one tappet gap that is bad.

OK, rings and valves are good if compressions are all over 155psi. I hope that's what he saw! Next, go over the dizzy, you'll have to strip it, but leave it in the car. Make sure the weights under the points plate can move out freely as they mechanically advance the timing. They might need a little grease. Check the points and see if one side has burned into a pit and the other into a volcano. Toss them if so and get new points and a new condensor. Fit them with the correct gap when the rubbing block is on a corner of the center shaft, and add a touch of greas to the shaft where they rub. Check the dizzy cap for dirt, & black cracks and scrape the oxide off the points inside where the spark from the rotor jumps over. If it misfires at all, check the resistance of the leads one by one. Check the plugs gaps, which I'm sure you have already done. Check the timing with a light or you can set it statically, I can tell you how. If you rev it slowly while watching the timing marks with the light you should see it advance from about 10deg out to 35deg max by 2500-3000revs. Suck on the vacuum line while watching the timng light and see that the timing changes. You can do this.while the cap is off if you don't have a light, just make sure the whole plate rotataes back and forth a few degrees. That is your vacuum advance, separate to your mechanical advance. Check the tappet gaps and get them right, then report back here.

Start from scratch, once again.... Timing, tappets, mixture (do a plug cut if no AFM) maybe cam timing if you don't know the absolute history of the motor. Lack of power could be anything, small points gap with retarded timing, too lean, too rich, cama tooth out, tappets not opening valves enough, not enough fuel delivered... What exactly are the symptoms of wrongness and what does it do well?

Manual or auto?? Now, assuming you are a car enthusiast who will work on cars all your life, go and buy a compression gauge. Check the compression of each cylinder at cranking speed with wide-open throttle, that will tell you how good the compression rings & valves are. If the compressions are low then doing the other mods to it will be wasted. Once you have done each cylinder, squirt a teaspoon or so of oil down each plug hole and try it again. The oil will help seal the rings and if the compressions go up the rings are worn. If the compressions stay low then the valves are worn. You might need a general rebuild before doing any mods, and you might find it keeps up with other 4Ks without a cam/exhaust/carb... Post the compressions up on here. If you don't want to buy a gauge then pay a mechanic to do them.

Ok, ta- We will try that when we have them apart next.

You guys coming down for the Blacksmiths Inn Rally just South of Port Maquarie on Dec 1st?? Hopefully we will have the Celica going and well tested before then.

dammit every 4K should have come out like that! Alty on that side, beside the battery (sitting on the chassis) & upright!

Ah- great machines! Wife had an ex-rally one in Cape Town, would haul 8000rpm! Then we had a couple of 1200s in NZ, the "as-new" wagon I fitted with an A15 & 5speed which made it a lovely little car. That's a bit of serious work...

hmmm.... OK, I'll pull it apart again sometime over the summer and photograph what is in there. I'm sure the Datsun ones just pulled out, as you say, but I figured these needed a pin tool. Thanks guys, if anyone pulls one apart, let us know how it works.

That is the sound of your starter solenoid jumping in and out as it hasn't got the grunt to lock in and turn the starter. Check the wires on the starter, the big starter current one and the smaller solenoid activator, a pig of the job. Check the earth from the motor to the chassis and chassis to battery. If you tried a new battery that had full charge, then somewhere else in the circuit is a bad connection that is stopping power flow. If the wiring is fine, the problem will be inside the solenoid where there are two big contacts that pass power to the starter windings. Either strip and check it yourself or have a sparkie reco the starter.

Ah yes, I know that tool well! I'm trying to be nice to these ones... The Datsun ones used to just pop out, but I think KE70 are screwed in, which is why they have the holes for a special tool. I think I'll make one from a bit of thickwall tube that I can drill a couple of pins into, slide it down over the shock shaft & swing a plumbers wrench on it.

Rallying lets you race cheaper cas with more variables than racing, where to get that little extra speed rapidly becomes very expensive. If you want to be winning your class and coming in the top 10 then what is written in here is the only way to do it. If you want to have some fun for a year and then decide how serious you are it can be far cheaper and easier. Put a couple of grand into suspension and a cage and go for it! All you need is a 5K or 5K rebore of a 4K and a semi-locked welded diff. Thiry years ago the guy I rallied with & I wrote a series of articles called "The $1000 Rally Car" for a club magazine. I'm sure nothing has changed really, but the price has gone up!

Just get an A12 out of a Datsun, that's the usual Morrie substitute and it is already upright. What are you going to do about the carb angle?? They will end up at a funny angle that will have the fuel in half the bowl.

Get a 2-door T series out of South Africa or an old SR5 2door. South Africa had much better models than Aussie got, and they usually fitted faster engines. There is a Corolla club in Cape Town with some members on here, they might find one for you.