altezzaclub

OMG! That is such a brilliant venue! Make the most of it, you guys are so lucky!

Looks good! What did you pay for it?? Its a shame so many nice ones are ending up in the wreckers when so many guys are looking for them.

If it is just that one cylinder and everything else is running fine, then it will be a valve problem. Burnt valve or ruined seat, either way its head off time, or if you're unbelievably lucky a tappet has closed up.. Do a compression test before you do anything else, the readings on the other cyls will tell you how good the rings are. It may be time for new rings too.

The Nissan man has it! Why bother?? Rear brakes do very little of the braking and you will run into bias problems swapping stuff around. So you will need to be able to limit the rear braking power to stop it locking the tail up. It may be fine until the day you really hit the brakes hard and find the rears lock first into an instant spin. Disc are only for changing pads faster in a race, and working against that is that they bring along a shoddy handbrake system. Rear drums will do quite adequately, well as far as stopping 30ton trucks go anyway. They used to race cars with rear drums at Le Mans, and the big thing was to have finned rear drums to dissapate heat in racing conditions. So I'm pretty sure you could use the drums you have and get better performance from the fronts. We rallied for years with rear drums and an adjustable limiter that allowed us to dial-in rear lockup in tight stages.

Nice! Santa thinks you must have been a good boy for the year!

nah... Benny, dildos are for Dildos! Don't worry about a gearknob unless its a leather one from a BMW/Merc with a Toyota badge mounted on! Actually, ours is a 4WD=FWD knob from a Tercel 4WD! Can you buy new channels?? Some cars you can, then you drill out the spotwelds on the old ones and pull them off, rustproof the car floorpan itself and weld the new one on. Its much better as the rust always goes much further than you think. When you're done you can fill them with expanding foam like in 7shade's post, it stiffens them up and stops water getting in.

LOL! That is cute! Enginuity at its best.

Is that the one where you keep it folded up in your licence and hand it over when stopped? ... the cop says "Is this your's Sir?" and you say "No Officer, I think its yours" and he says... "No, its not." and throws it away in the wind.... :laff: So, what else is for sale that's worth buying now??

So philbey,do you check the preload the same way I used to?? Slowly force the lifter down with a big screwdriver and measure the tappet gap at the valve?? Then it rattles like shit when you start it as it pumps them back up again... I'm afraid I learnt all this on a 1949 Typhoon when I was restoring it as a teenager, so it may be a bit dated. (Its just been finished by my youngest brother, 45years later!)

Lol- yeah soz Towie. OK, here is what happens inside. You used to be able to unbolt solenoids and fix them, but these days they are swaged shut. The small wire takes power to the solenoid when you hit the ignition "start". That fires up the windings and sucks the steel core backwards in its magnetic field. The arm through the pivot pushes the bendix gear forward to engage the flywheel teeth. Simultaneously, the copper bar across the back of the solenoid core bridges across the back of the nuts you see on the outside, one of them carrying main power from the battery. The 300amps current goes down the fat cable, through the copper bar and into the starter windings. It sparks and burns the bar and the bolt heads, so when they are corroded and dirty they just go "click click click" as it slams back and forth but won't fire the starter windings.

...and the one that no-one has mentoned is the teeth on the flywheel. When you had the starter out, did you check the flywheel teeth?? They get smashed every time you hit the key, and because the motor always stops just coming up to compression there are only a few places on the flywheel where it stops. These teeth get worn and the starter can't engage properly. So if you have the starter out take a look at the teeth where it engages. ...and I hope it was a fully reconditioned one with the solenoid renewd, (the solenoid contacts burn away) or else you might have replaced it with one just as bad as the old. Scottiriver's photo above is NOT the starter solenoid, that is a solenoid that powers the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid sits on the starter motor and does two jobs- it slams the bendix gears into the flywheel and it switches on the huge current that the starter windings need. Test it like Towie says, but remember its not under load in the test. So it might work fine out of the car but not in.

How about bolting one onto a 5K?? You don't need the hydraulic lifters at all, its 1500cc already, the bottom has been shown to take massive revs if you want to and the machining of parts has been done once... Who's a good machinist?

Yes, I thought "gutters" but they don't really have them. Then maybe "channels"... door sills? Take a photo of the rust in the canals for us Benjamin. As parrot said, grind the paint back around the rust to clean steel then weld in a new piece is best. Second best is to grind it back then fibreglass over it. If there is any rust left around the hole treat it with a rust-kill product, one of the phosphoric acid liquids. If the rust is just on a flat surface with no holes you can use paint stripper and a scraper to get the paint off and treat it with rust-kill, the paint over it. Good luck with it, Norway is hard on cars, quite the opposite to inland Australia where nothing rusts.

Yeah, & I hope you get a fish tank for Xmas Jono! Have a good one!

Excellent- and a good point for anyone else reading this thread who is working in the cooling system.

Ok, so side-cam hydraulics are self-adjusting. If they are pumping up and holding the valves open a little then it won't idle. I don't know how you would check that. If the cab was running on it,then only the overlap from the cam should be a factor. I think 1000rpm may be your idle speed. What is it like running at that?? Smooth?? Grumpy and threatening to stall?? My rolla on SUs is grumpy with a 270deg cam, less lift than yours, and although it sounds like it will stall, when its warm it will sit on 1000rpm for 5minutes no trouble.

A friend I do a lot of work with owns an early 90s Landcruise with the smaller diesel engine, I think its a 3L. He drives long disatnces every week (works in a mine 4hrs away) and drives at 90kph to minimize fuel usage. It still uses 9 to 10L/100km, which is terrible! I though diesels were cheap to run, although I've never owned one, but this shows otherwise. It also has pathetic power up hills of course!

Its very hard to see a difference between the 2T and the 3T. In theory the left hand column are all 2T and the right hand ones are 3T. Some thermostat housings point left and some right.

I think EvanG ran a Weber about that size instead of the 32/36 off a Ford. PM him and ask what he finally used for jets.

coln do 5Ks run with a tappet gap?? The only ones I've had experience with in OHV had no gap. You pushed the rocker down with a big screwdriver and set the tappet gap to 75thou, then when the motor ran that gap vanished completely. That's why the hydraulics were silent compared to mechanical. 5Ksev, the idle is the lowest speed you can make it run at nicely. So it is a balance of speed versus smooth running. Just wind the idle screw right in, then out 1.5turns and run the motor. Wind it in and out 1/2 a turn and go the way that makes it increase revs or run smoother. Then change the idle speed screw to suit. If you chase 'Weber tuning' through google they will have something about how many turns out it is and what that means about your idle jet being too big or too small.

Why don't you Weber boyz get a pinned thread up where you can list mods and jet sizes. You will need to rejet the carbs (idle jet, air jet and main jets) to suit the 4K, and again to suit the cam & exhaust you have fitted. So that is time on a dyno with an oxygen meter, or a built-in oxy sensor & fuel mixture display. If the guys who did them years ago post up their figure then it will be quick & easy for people doing it now.

Arrrgh! 5K ! Hydraulic tappets... You don't set them. Much more likely to be carb than anything else in that case.

X2 Trev could be right, but that is pretty esoteric. You would need the tappets set at under 2thou as they only grow 3thou between cold and hot. Clean the idle jet and blow out the idle circuit in the carb. Evan can help, he has had his apart a zillion times! :laff:

Shows what a 4K bottom end will take... Lovely work!

:lolcry: