altezzaclub

OK, wheel alignment done- Now, this is on the springs from the manual g'box donor car, and they are cut to a free height of.. Rear, from 368mm down to 342mm, -26mm or a coil and a half. Front, from 363mm down to 335mm, -28mm, but that's only one coil. This puts both front and rear wheel arches 600mm above the ground. With Corona LCAs that gives negative camber of -18minutes, or 1/3 of a degree. Our tape measure toe was -0.4mm, which would have been hard to measure on a 5m tape! Its now 2.2mm in. The castor stayed at 3deg each side. Interesting enough the rear axle toes out 0.8mm, which is either the error in the wheel alignment gear or the error in their diff building... Doesn't feel any different to drive, handles just great!

You can- -start from cold with the rad cap off & the rad full to the very brim and watch for bubbles pushing the water out of the top. That works for a 'noticeably' blown gasket. -buy a leak detector kit from Repco & run it with that. The liquid reacts with the compresion gases that get pumped through and it changes colour. That was 30years ago so there might be better ones now. -get a garage to do a leakdown test with an airhose on a sparkplug hole and a guage on it. They just put #2 on firing and pump it full of compressed air and see how long it takes to leak out. It might just be normal expansion from the water heating up, although in theory you never lose water from the radiator, it goes into the overflow bottle when hot and back to the rad when cooling.

Keep a close eye on it, it could be head gasket leakage into the water system.

Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch?Howmuch? .... you forgot to put the price on!! $2grand...OK, $1500..well worth it, $1000...bargain! Anything less you should be in jail! Manual K50, Corona LCAs, cam/carb/exhaust and leave everything else just like it is!

So... is this meaning it stays locked on when the handbrake is released so you can't drive away?? or does it randomly lock on when you apply the brakes while travelling in 1st gear and stay locked up?? I'd check the handbrake cable very carefully to make sure it releases correctly and doesn't hold one side on. Then swap shoes from one side to the other in case the wear on one leading edge shoe is causing sticking 'on'. If its only one rear wheel it can't be anything from the T-piece forward, assuming KE36 are old enough to hav both rear lines working from one T-piece, so it must be inside that hub. How do you get it to let go now?

Arrgh!!

Its true, and it will blow out if driven on long enough. Mine sometimes came from kerbs :blush: and sometimes from large rocks in rally roads...

I still reckon I should hook the doorhandles up to a coil...

Ooooh.. chuck on both, they give years of entertainment, frustration and problem-solving exercises... and they run with more grunt than the Asian and less fuel on a trip!

Those statements are NOT connected, but I suppose if you don't fix the carb they will be! Raw fuel going into the motor wil wash the oil off the bores and destroy the rings. So there is nothing wrong with the motor?? But the carb won't work properly.. Has the carb guy looked it it yet for float level and jetting?

Ours was two lengths of 4x2 screwed together, some trailer tie-down belts and then me on one side and the girl on the other... We just lifted the motor up and over the radiator frame. She did complain about the weight but hey, she's a fit young 18 while I'm an ol' knackered guy! Carefactor pretty low...

Can only be master cyl as either you'd lose fluid or the fluid wouldn't return to the reservoir and the clutch wouldn't push the thrust bearing back. ie rusted thrust carrier jamming it forward. Even if the pedal was rusted and jamming the clutch wouldn't engage the gearbox while the pedal was stuck down. You'd be right with the T-piece and a pressure gauge too. It would show the pressure dropping as the pressure plate returned and the pedal still stayed at the floor.

If you jack it up and pull the wheel towards you the 2mm, can someone watch the brake drum from under the car and see or feel that 2mm. I'd make sure the axle was sliding in and out 2mm before I pulled it apart, unless there is absolutely no chance of the movement being in the suspension. If its in the axle then either the bearing is sliding in the diff housing via a loose backing plate inside the drum, or the axle is sliding inside the bearing. I can't see how anything in the diff center can affect it. PS- sliding hammer for the axle removal! It has the correct force direction and there is no chance of smashing the drum.

In theory, rear track 1335, front 1320 listed as KE70 specs- http://www.eurodb.com.au/used-car-Specification/TOYOTA/COROLLA/XX/1982/LQH/ My Gregorys doesn't even list track, its the biggest piece of shit book I've come across! But anyway, I also reckon a wider front track improves handlng and the Corona LCAs do that.

Well, after asking about the play in the steering rack on here I went out & bought a rack end. Then rego inspection came up before I fitted it, and the guy checked the passenger's side, then the drivers side (which was the loose one) then went back to the passenger's again and said I better replace both of them. So I bought the other one and we fitted them yesterday. They were shorter in contruction than the originals, so setting the threads the same gave an inch of toe-out, and it was out with the tape-measure for an alignment. We marked the tyres at 165mm off the ground with White-out pen, the height a tape can clear under the car, then took a piece of alloy section each and measured front and back of the wheels. She set them to 2mm toe-in, but we can sort that later at a wheel alignment shop. The car feels much more attached to the road through the steering now, not so floaty, a lot nicer! A tape over the rear wheels in the same manner showed we have 12mm wider track at the front than the rear. That will be the Corona LCAs. I took it down to Sydney for a day and over the 500km it ran at 6.9L/100km, so the SUs are running true to form- Ok around town at 10L/100km, but cheap to run on open-road cruise at 100kph. Now I can get back to that cold-air tube and airbox vent!

I use 95, and I'm thankful its cheap as a subsidised 10% ethanol blend! 91 would probably be OK for stock, but I skimmed the head when it was off and don't have to worry about detonation with 95.

Vibration would do that, the foam would just shred away. Easy to fix if its just to tie a hose out of the way. I plumbed my PCV emissions line into my brake line with a T-piece and everyone said it wouldn't work. Seemed OK, the brakes worked as they should, and then a few months later I had it apart for something and I drilled the manifold for the PCV inlet and changed it over. Made no difference, so using the brake line with a T-piece seems the go. What happens if you don't use the spacers with those 7" rims? Do they hit the struts in the front and something in the rear??

Lol! I can't believe how it gets bigger and bigger in each photo.. how do you ever fit it into an engine bay!

Twin 1&3/4" would be equal in cross-sectional area to 2&1/2" pipe- 1.5" pipe is only 2/3 the size. If you had 4-2-1 headers and took separate pipes from each pair of cylinders it would sound different. Run 1 & 3 into one pipe and 2 & 4 into the other. In the end, probably not worth the expense...

The girl's KE70 has been running around town at 9 or 10L/100, and when we took the Altezza down to Vic and back it did 2000km at 120kph and turned in 7.6L/100km. Rather depressing seeing its 2L and over 3times the bhp! Anyway, yesterday I 'rollered down to Sydney and back, a 500km trip from Orange and the 4K ran at 6.9L /100, so it is much cheaper at 100kph than around town. Maybe its the way she drives it! Certainly the SU carbs lean out on cruise, that shows up on the oxy meter, and with my speedo ahowing 105-110 we overtook an indecent amount of cars. I know it over-reads 8%. Its just so lovely to go up hills in the Blue Mountains, compared to when we bought it! They both use 95octane with 10% alcohol, its the cheapest here in Orange.

You think that's bad... my son wants to get a Porsche 924 or 944.... the motor only comes out the bottom! ...for anything apparently!

Worth sticking an electric pump in to fill up the mechanical one?? Datsun 1200s used to do this- fuel pump was in the wrong place.

One problem would be the computer's reaction to a rich or lean reading from the oxy sensor in the exhaust. Would it alter ignition in compensation? Would it run at all without an oxy sensor? (which you should hook up to a mixture display for jetting the carb too) Is there a feedback from injectors that the computer would be looking for, or does it just send a millisecond timed signal down the wire and then ignore it? We've just done Victoria & back, 2000km at 120kph in the Altezza, and the 2L 3SG-E turned in 7.5L/100km. That's as good as the 1300cc 4K does in the KE70 on the same sort of trip at 100kph! As Hiro says, why bother?

ROFLMAO!! Classic!! Stunning work, no wonder Greece is broke! Imagine sitting in it when it hits 5000rpm!