altezzaclub

Haha! 120 is certainly not good, a stock motor starts at about 170psi and wears away to maybe 110 before it get new rings/rebored. Why are the pistons dished?? The dieseling is why Toyota installed the solenoid on the KE70, but if you have an earlier model it wouldn't have one. The car doesn't need it for that problem, but its interesting that having it is solving a problem Toyota never thought about! You need a tacho sensitive switch like fuel injection uses. That way you have a vac switch to kill the solenoid on over-run, then the solenoid comes back on when the revs drop to 1000rpm as the tacho switch activates the solenoid again. When you drive away again the tacho switch turns off and the vac switch turns on. Here's a starting point- http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Simple-DIY-Rev-Switch&A=0798

Great stuff! I see the springs handle it all without any wind-up or distortion. Lots of pitch height change though.

Did you bleed the master cyl itself?? No bubbles hiding in there?? The pistons in the AE86 will be bigger and need more pedal push to work, but I didn't think they would go to the floor... halfway maybe. They won't be hard at all on the first push, but a second push should bring them up immediately. Post up the diameters of the original brake pistons, the new brakes and the master cyl. The solution to that is a bigger master cyl.

Sure, the thing that gets people excited is haivng it wired such that it stops when the motor stops, even with the ignition on. The cops don't like the pump working after some accident that has split a fuel line and stalled the motor. Put it below and see if it helps. Usual theory is that the pumps have plenty of push but no suction, so the early days of injection had in-tank 'lift' pumps pushing fuel out to the main pump, then they just started making the in-tank main pumps that everyone has these days.

Why not take the switch out and see if it diesels on after you turn it off. Its very unlikely with such crap compressions! If it doesn't just don't run the solenoid circuit. The idle jet does work up past idle, as you found. Weber reckons it hands on to the main circuit around 2500-3000rpm. It makes a richer mixture at idle as there is so little fuel and air going in that at 'normal' jetting it wouldn't burn. Mine wanders up and down from 14 to 18 on the mixture display. Of course you may have a hot cam grind you don't know about, and the extra overlap causes over-run popping and surging. ..or worn valves, but if your grind was good they shouldn't be doing it. I get it on my 4K with twin SUs and cam. The uneven cammy idle conditions on over-run upset the inlet vacuum which upsets the SU floating piston, which upsets the idle and that causes it to pop...

Is the tank up in the boot above the pump?? Both wagons Steve has owned surged badly and violently going up a hill with less than half a tank of fuel. Neither had lift pumps or surge tanks. Then again, both started fine on level ground, so unless your pump is pretty bad you should be able to start it. Pulling an injector out and watching the fuel spray will tell you. Another possible source might be the fuel pressure valve on the return end of the rail. The latest wagon had the stock one replaced with an aftermarket adjustable, and that being set too low was the cause of its abysmal running. If yours is not right inside it might be dropping the fuel line pressure by returning too much fuel... and the option is that the pump specs are not the same as the stock one and is pumping too much (or not enough) fuel.

The surge tank is in and plumbed, tucked up under the intake system. The main pump is mounted on the intake's diagonal brace. But as a distraction we are doing up the spare RA40 for sale... We drove it home from Queensland a couple of years back as those models are quite rare and we "might have needed a spare shell" Actually, we soon decided it was far to good to rally, the inside is immaculate and the driver's front guard had been lightly smacked and replaced with a yellow one. Luckily all the headight/indicator stuff was unmarked, so some of us spent the day sitting outside under a tree sanding the guard and painting it. If you want a really nice RA40 let us know. $3000 would buy it. The 18RC runs fine, but we could replace it with an 18RG if you're keen... Tomorrow is the last day here for a week or so, I'll finish mounting the charcoal canister and head back to Orange. The wiring comes next!

Yep- ...and how much of a motor conversion can you do yourself?? You need to be able to make all sorts of brackets and fittings from steel, or pay a lot of money for an engineer to do it. Some are definately easier and hence cheaper to do, while the cost of the motors may not vary that much.

OK, that's a fairly serious difference in the baffles. I've got the in-tank pump fitted just like that too. Then a bracket welded onto the diagonal stay under the intake. That takes the high-pressure pump on its VL rubber mounts. I marked the hole for that bolt, can't see a thing in a black photo. ..and the little surge tank goes on a bracket under the intake system just behind the pump. Then another bracket today to move the charcoal canister. Hopefully that's the last of the manufacturing!

Nope it won't do! Got re-sized too small. Try this-

Look in a wiring diargram! This one will do- White supplies the power for everything from the fusible link, and it goes out via the accessories blue/red, the ignition black/yellow, and the start black/white to starter solenoid. So the white gets switched to blue/red and black/yellow, and it gets buttoned to the black/white.

Timing- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/36541-whats-the-ignition-timing-on-a-16v-4age-supposed-2-be/ Although the one I was working on the other day felt flat at 15deg, so I put it back to 25, where it had been. You will see any sparks jumping around the dizzy cap at night, or spray it inside and out with WD40 or CRC556 and that will stop any escaping sparks for a while. If it does short out around the damage in the center of the cap just buy another one.

LoL! You should've offered to buy it of Tore for $100! As good as Antiques Roadshow!

err... I think it was a couple of years ago when I was planning on an extraction vent in the grille on the oven at home... I had to chase up a lot of education on flow mechanics, then never got around to doing it! Mind you, I think they were talking about a nice 90deg curve! Anyway.. buried in remote thermostat 4AGE problems currently, something I'm sure you've had to solve on the ZZ.. The 4AGE wagon with no t'sat has terrible, violent surge when cold...

When you do it just measure the minimum height of the shocks. In the front it needs to coil bind before the shock bottoms out so the spring acts as a limiter or it will smash the shock foot valve. You can buy a lot of bump stops to cushion the last 30 or 40mm. You might want to change the rear bump stops so they just protect the rear shocks, it depends on how much the rears contract. Make the new ones more progressive as stock ones are hard as rock. 4 people in the car won't help your cause either... I've been in cars that are badly lowered and lowered too much, its not nice. How low are you planning on??

A 90deg bend adds the same flow loss as a metre of pipe.... If I were you I wouldn't worry about it until you're doing something else like fitting extractors or some exhaust rusts through. The local exhasut shop should be able to replace it with a slightly curved piece, but it is in such an awkard place it will have to be pulled out of the car. I'm sure you will find the mechanics you need sooner or later, there has to be some good ones who are expert in keeping old cars running, its like Africa. Just think of how cheap it is to have anything done compared to Aussie!

Is that all internal? Does the tank look the same on the bottom from the outside? I'm tempted to weld an extension on one side at bottom level or just below, but that KE70 tank gets so full of dents and knocks already..

OK, a few weeks in Orange working on a vineyard project (so much for being retired!) and its back up to the Woolshed on Wednesday with new fuel pumps. Steve is due to help his uncle on Thursday so I can get started on The Beast... But no, Facebook intervenes and on Thursday morning he's all "Road trip! Road trip!" We ask the Boss for The Mothershiip, which means going over the brakes and service things, and bolt on the dodgy trailer we were always going to weld up and fix before we used it... Then we headed off into the flatlands past Gunneda ..4hours later in a tiny dorp in the middle of somewhere, Steve had discovered a pair of flatfront manuals at a property that looked like a bigger version of his... old cars and utes and vans and tractors and machinery and... So we hauled them home, KE70 numbers 14 and 15 on the farm at the moment! One is slghtly worse than the other for rust, its just coming through under the fuel filler. The good one we will get running and put it through rego.. One owner since new who sold it when in his 70's and the guys we got it from drove it home! The second one needs a head gasket and we'll either fix that and the rust to sell it, or use it as a spare rally car body. Both are straight and undented, and being country cars they don't have that coastal rust. If you want one let us know.

If you take a plug out can you smell fuel when you crank it? Is that from a timing light on a plug lead? While you have the plug out for the fuel test above, have you checked that it sparks when its sitting on the head? At least the coil is working. Find the spark at the spark plug to check the cap distributes power OK. One car I worked on had the rotor in from another model dizzy on the same car.... the dizzy cap button in the middle didn't touch the rotor! That took some finding. I can't see how it can be wrong if they are lined up.

..as Steve found out in the KE70 when he kept spinning it because there wasn't enough lock... The strut holes look like they are a different width too. Try AE86 power steering ones, as Steve did in the end. They bolted straight onto the RA40 Celcia struts.

Yep... It's for extra fuel above the accelerator pump when you boot it. The rod is vac operated I think and opens the jet to fuel flow. Somewhere in there is the accelerator pump setup with its little ball bearing and spring. Its a one-way valve to fill the fuel pump cylinder ready for use and to stop the fuel bleeding back into the bowl. What I usually do with carbs is to use a 5cc syringe without a needle to push petrol through all the drillings in the body. Sometimes they will block up with gunk so it won't work even if the jets are clean.

Yep, that is why it sucked hard. Clever! I didn't realise there were aftermarket plastic ones! Usually you can spray the hell out of it with brakeclean or carb cleaner to clean the seat out, but they might melt plastic.

Well, that tip is not in this strip, look at 3min in. He does say they are called 'slow' jets by Toyota, but they are air corrector jets in reality. The number is their flow size, and the bigger number will add air to a larger amount of fuel. That diagram has only one of those air correctors, and I expected one for each throat. It also doesn't have an idle jet labelled, so I think its not a full picture of the carb. Do you have two of those jets in the carb? I'm going up to The Woolshed this Wednesday to work on my 4AGE conversion, so if I get time I'll pull a 4K carb apart. Only then will it make sense to me.

What electrical plug does the alty have?? I've just got back from the wrecker with a couple of 3-wire round ones from some random Toyotas, old Camrys are square 90deg and new ones are modern plugs that are quite different. These came off 4AFEs I think it was.

I expect that part to be an emulsion tube to mix the incoming air with the fuel, but I haven't pulled a stock carb apart to check. The factory listing is 21205 Jet Sub-Assembly, Slow 21024-61060 ID=0.55 I'm not sure why the Yanks call them "slow" jets, I think they are air jets. So you get primary and secondary jets in their respective throats, and they are made up of main jets and air jets. The extras are power jets in the accelerator pump and idle jets for idle.