B.L.Z.BUB

I didnt end up running the washer. Added some velcro so its removable. Wired and mounted it. All the button is doing is completing the circuit from the AFM to the ECU, so the ECU and SC relay are still doing all the work.

I really wanted to be able to switch my SC on easily, reaching for the switch on the dash was getting tedious. I also wanted it steering wheel mounted for thumb operation. So I went to Jaycar and got some coiled cable and a temporary on button. Found an old fender mirror thing which I bent and cut into kind what I wanted. Tested to see how the button would fit. Contact adhesive and cheap black vinyl.

I did a bit of customising on my dash, probably not as much though :P Digital clock stopped working so I fitted a digital voltmeter in its place, and the charge light is now my CEL. Trying to keep it stock looking.

If you right click the image, 'copy', then paste into your post you wont have to link your FB page all the time. As it is that link doesnt take us to the picture in question.

OK sorted, getting a knock sensor code. Great, the hardest sensor on my car to get to.

No constant to the 12V BATT pin. Well I wired my loom up to the diagram specs but I'm guessing in the maze of wires there is a constant 12V that I have missed that feeds the ECU memory. I wired a constant 12V from inside my dash to it but it wouldnt start and I smelled not good smell electrical. So I have run a constant 12V with an in line 10A fuse straight off the battery and it has now started. Without any weird smells. As the GE ECU's are adaptive every time I have stopped the car everything it has learned has been wiped.

Actually I think my ECU doesnt have a constant 12V. This may be the issue. EDIT: Yup, constant 12V to ECU is non-existant, not even getting switched 12V.

Haha, yup. My bad. I figured the ECU stored codes but it didnt even cross my mind it'd need constant 12v to do it. I thought it was magic.

I'll try this out and make sure I havent been turning the car totally off before checking as its only getting ACC 12v. Cheers! I wasnt aware it should get constant 12V.

As far as I know the KE70 box is the only one compatible.

Dammit.

Even cheaper are the KLS kits. Under $80.

I solved it by putting a switch inline on the power source :) Battery was disconnected over the weekend installing the stereo. Might try unplugging some sensors. I have removed a lot of stuff like iscv, the iscv sensor, all the VSVs, basically all the unnecessary crap. It's probably trying and failing to trigger these, weird I get no codes though.

From what I have been told the t50s bolt on to KE70 K boxes.

That was AWESOME!

The 15" look wayyyyyyy better.

And apologies for not updating the thread for it :P

It was MASSIVE, I left before I got blocked in. Serious amounts of good cars not just the muscle crowd. Some sick Supras, a mad 2JZ 180, the Subaru boys rocked up, rats. hot rods, aussie. Even a P plater with $20 worth of LED's. Two, yes TWO Sierra Cosworths not sure which models but both immaculate. A 20V KE70 matte black with stockos, a few S13's. If I wasnt sick I would have stayed longer. They were still rolling in when I left at about 7:45.

Screw ae86's gimme a TE71 coupe any day. Nice write up too.

Heaps of nice imports too.

Phucking packed at auto one. Packed! No room to park and cars keep rolling in.

Unfortunately nothing about having a CEL and no codes, plus GZE codes are different to GE ones.

I pretty much have a constant check engine light on my bigport 4AGZE yet whenever I do a diagnostic it comes up clear. Car runs fine, no issues. I'm not sure if its in limp mode but I don't think so. Any ideas?

Any parts shop can look it up and I'd bet they can supply it off the shelf.

CEL hooked up through my charge light with a dash diagnostic switch.