rian

I think 4Ks have a separate belt for the aircon? Anyway, the standard 4K belt is either 890mm or 875mm (KE55, KE70 had some variations etc). And the aircon belt is either 925mm, 955mm or 980mm (again they're are some variations) but it's wider than the standard fan belt. I've never seen a aircon setup on a K engine so I don't know if they use a tensioner or not. Here is the Bosch drive belt catalogue if you want to look it up: http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/Drive_Belt_Web_Ready.pdf They also have this catalogue at most auto stores, plus they have a neat belt measuring tool if you want to measure your belt accurately.

Just found out I can order 200mm 4AGE lightweight chromoly flywheels, lightweight aluminium flywheels and ultra lightweight chromoly flywheels through work for pretty cheap. Must.... not... spend... money... ARGHHHH!

I've got some questions, some of them might be a bit silly but they may help: Have you tested it with a test light? If you turn put the positive probe of the test light on the positive battery terminal and then the negative probe on the "L" terminal on the alternator the light should come on, then when you start the car it should go out? Have you earthed the engine properly? KE30s have external regulators don't they? Did you ditch it when you wired up the new alternator?

From cheapest to most expensive: - Adjust clutch pushrod under the dash - Make sure you have enough clutch fluid, add more if needed - Replace slave cylinder if it's faulty - Replace/rebuild master cylinder if it's faulty - Pull the engine and gearbox out and check/replace the clutch - Buy a new car But before you do any of this, I'd go out and buy a repair manual.

This is no KE30, it would be a TE3* or something. Which are way better than KE30s because of the stronger engine/gearbox. PS. That bonnet vent is dope!

I've have had the 5K electronic distributor that Altezzclub mentioned, the 4K-U electronic distributor that you have Evan, and the standard 4K-C points distributor all in the same 4K at different times. The 5K electronic distributor is absolute rubbish in a 4K, you're much better off with the original 4K-C distributor unless you do what Altezzaclub did and recurve it. The 4K-U electronic distributor is good, I can't tell if the engine is running better or not but it is great to never have to adjust the points. Plus you can run a 12 volt coil and ditch the stock 6 volt/9 volt/whatever coil and shitty ballast resistor. As for putting the electronic distributor internals in a points distributor casing, I never tried. But I think my points distributor was a Bosch unit and the electronic one was a Nippon Denso so it probably wouldn't have worked anyway.

Cheers for the offer David, but I think I have one stuck to a K40 that I had for sale but never sold.

^ Exactly what I wanted to hear guys, thanks very much for the price estimates and recommendations. I should add that I definitely want this thing engineered, instead of looking for a 'loop hole' in the system. Just incase I do get into an accident or a police officer really wants to fine me. Yes as LRS said, my surge tank is under the car where it should be. And it will be presented nicely when it goes for the certificate, ie. stock wheels, normal ride height etc. I may try and find a KE70 gearbox crossmember and mod it slightly,thanks for the tip Cicca. Cheers guys, I'll give an engineer a call soon.

Hey RC, Before I get flamed, this is not a "oh does my car need to be engineered if I changed the engine" post, I know it needs to be engineered, and yes I'm going to call an engineer, but I'm chasing some info first. So I'm about to get my 4AGE conversion in my KE70 engineered in QLD, preferably somewhere in Brisbane, and I was looking to get some pointers/advice from people who have done it before. I've never gone through the engineering/mod plate process before so I don't know what to expect, but I have a copy of the National Code of Practice for Light Vehicle Modifications and I have read it. Basically I want to get the following things engineered under these codes: - LA (Engine): It's just a stock 4AGE; it retains the factor airbox; uses factory AE71 crossmember, AE71 metal and rubber mounts; has a custom exhaust on it but still has a catalytic converter, muffler and resonator. - LB (Transmission): T50 gearbox, AE86 gearbox crossmember where only 2 of the 4 bolt holes line up. This is the bit that I'm worried about, would I likely get knocked back on this? The 2 holes that line up are inline with the actual gearbox mount so there is no twisting in the crossmember, but it looks a little dodgey. - LG (Brakes): ADM AE86 brakes, ADR approved braided lines. I don't think this will be a problem, however they are mounted onto AE86 adjustable coilover struts which are not legal as far as I know. - LM (Fuel system): Basically I just want to get the surge tank engineered, I can't see this causing any problems. Does this all sound good? Is there anything I have missed or should change to make sure I pass engineering? Other questions: Can I get knocked back by things that aren't related to the engine conversion, like coilovers or rust or any of that crap? Does the engineer want to see photos or documentation of the engine conversion? And the main reason I made this thread which is to see what other people have paid to have their 4AGE KE70s engineered, and to see if someone can recommend an approved engineer in Brisbane. Sorry for the long post. Thanks, Rian.

Dude that is awesome!

-Cut brake line near fitting -Place six point socket over the top -Undo fitting -Dispose of shitty old rubber brake lines -Replace with braided brake lines because they are better and often cheaper than rubber ones (edit: just read that you already have braided lines, have fun cutting those lol) OR -Buy a set of quality single-hex type crows foot wrenches

^ +1

Just bought an AE71 alloy radiator, so keen!

^That's what I could do, but it looks difficult to make a proper mount down there, plus I don't think my bumper is big enough to cover it up. BTW what's with all the huge cables at the front of your car?

The overflow tank is mounted down beside the radiator on the drivers side, the charcoal canister is going to mount down near the chassis rail and I haven't figured out the washer bottle yet, I might try and find a smaller one from the wreckers, or get one that goes inside the guard.

Here's that airbox I was talking about, AE82 airbox with a VS Commodore airbox outlet: Yesterday I sanded, cleaned and primed the whole exhaust system with some 1000*C primer. Then today I painted them, and soon I'm going to heat wrap the headers: So stoked that my friend was kind enough to help me make the exhaust from the headers back (actually he pretty much made the whole thing because he's a boss at welding), it's a 2" mandrel bent over-diff system with a 300 cell cat, resonator and straight through muffler. It cost about $300 just in parts but I think it was worth it. And while it was on the stand I took a picture of the ridiculous lack of droop up front compared to the ridiculous excess of droop in the rear (I'm going to sort this out one day): And here is the new bumper, it sits a bit crooked: And the interior is basically back together (I finally mounted the ECU in the original bracket, I had to mod it a little bit but it fitted up behind the glovebox nicely):

13BT_KE20's thread: http://www.rollaclub...3bt-ke20s-ride/ 13bke26's thread: http://www.rollaclub...-new-motor-box/

More of this when you get it running!

^Looks like steam pipe, you should be able to get them from any industrial store in different sizes and types of bends. I don't know why I haven't read this thread before? This thing is awesome!

^That would foul on the struts? Are you sure they're not the 15x10 -24 Superlites?

^last.fm

I saw a lowered, brown KE70 crossing the Grey Street Bridge in Brisbane at around 4pm today.

Maybe you didn't have the fuel pressure regulator hooked up?

Here's my list of things to check or think about (note: I have no experience with 20 valves): How old is your fuel? How much fuel is in your tank? Is your timing set correctly? Is your knock sensor faulty? Is you crank angle sensor faulty? If you are running an intank lift pump, assuming you mounted the pump to the metal pick-up line inside the tank, check to make sure the pump hasn't fallen off it's mount. I've heard this happens on KE70 tanks. I'll try and think of more stuff later.

YES!