Taz_Rx

For once I would have to agree! :D :D

Correct. Pics of both in the FAQ. :D

This the pic you wanted?

Stock T25 and T28 turbo's aren't really worth re-building - You're looking at around $800+ to do it. For $200-$300 more you can get yourself a ball bearing GT series turbo like a GT28R, disco potato etc.

haha funny shite. Can I have a night with your mum for a 6-pack? :D

Did you day rego it to take it home? Would of loved to have come out with you guys to get but you get that. :D

G series GB from memeory. Check the FAQ. These are the K-W40/50 bellhousings. :D

Mate you're not going to find anybody who makes a vented 12-13mm thick discs. Think about it! :D

Most likely axle bearings. They wear out a whole lot quicker than the diff bearings.

:hmm: It'll still work, but you might want to drain and replace it. Useless info - I bought one of the bottle pumps for $20. Reason is because now I can buy 4L bottles without the pull out nozzle. 1l = $10'ish, 4lt = $25'ish, you do the math. :yes: Also if you do get one of the pumps, they're heaps easier to use when the oil is warn and thinner. Just sit the bottle of oil in a bucket/tub of hot water for half an hour or so before using it. >|

Regardless of weather you have a Banjo (jap) or Borg warner (ADM) diff they'll both have a filler plug on the back of the diff. With the car sitting level fill with DIFF OIL (not lsd oil) through this hole until it starts to dribble back out. Small 1lt diff oil bottle will normally have a pull out nozzle in them to make the job a bit easier or you could get yourself one of these to make like even easier.

If you want to EFI it later down the track then thinking ahead I would just use a locked up electronic dizzy. Then when you're ready to fit the efi, its just a matter of hooking the elec dizzy up to the ECU as the ignition input, because this input will also need to be a constant pulse, ie locked. The reason I asked if you want to fit a cam is if you're talking a/r ratios already then you should factor the cam you plan on using into your decision. A .48 housing will nearly have the response of a S/C, and just like the S/C it'll start to run out of legs in the top end. For this reason you would want to combine this with a very mild or even stock cam. Now on the other end of the scale if you want to run a .64 you need to combine it with a cam that will work in much the same rpm range. When I was running a .64 T28 (S14) boost didn't come on until around 1000rpm later, but when it did it just kept pulling harder and harder the more you reved it..... which worked a lot better with my larger cam than what my T25G does. Put it this way, with the T25G I hardly ever see the shift light as I'm better off cracking another gear and using the mid range. With the T28 I would quite often see the shift light and sometimes also find the limiter set at 7500.

Early 80's 2.4 4 pots, IE Astron motors as Jip mentioned.

Happy to spend a bit of money - Re-graph it or try and retro-fit a boost retard solenoid onto it. Don't want to spend money - Lock it up. :yes: Yeah the chinese turbs will most likely be .64 Any plans for a lump stick in it?

If you want a .48 rear then try and find yourself a T25G. Yeah mate, always run power for things like a fuel pump of thermo fan etc through a relay. I also used to run the power for the VL pump through a ballast resistor (just an old coil one) as well to drop the output a little bit. You don't need all of what that pump will put out for a carby K. It shouldn't take too long to sort it. Probably just the fuel system, but also make sure somthing has been done about ignition so you don't blow HG's. :yes:

Yep you are!! :yes: Have a look at the "How to setup your fuel system" thread in the tech section if you're interested. Carby turbo fuel systems are more similar to an EFI setup than a conventional carby setup.

Oh yeah forgot about that sorry. Pretty pathetic when you consider even Tassie has a drag strip. :yes:

416 823.101 Australian dollars :yes:

Yeah I've noticed that too...... although I don't think anybody has really put any research or effort into getting it running properly. No offence meant to him - but I don't think Benzeder even did anything to it....except for shitting a fuel pump,.....because the fuel system was not set up properly.

No worries mate. Catch cans - Have a look at some of the ones thi guy has made.... http://tasrotary.6.forumer.com/viewtopic.p...asc&start=0 They sit in behind the strut towers. Not suggesting to get one of him (although I'm sure you'd be happy if you did) just for an idea on location. Oh and another suggestion - Don't buy something off ebay. :yes:

You can run 20psi on that turbo,...... but don't expect it to last longer than a week. The 360 degree thrust washer turbos will only like about 15psi max. The shaft speed required for 20psi will just fly out the bearings. Basically you need a ball bearing turbo if you want that sort of psi...... same drama I have at the mo.

Evan: Just remove the springs and replace them with tie-wire..... not cable ties. Welding the weights up isn't a good idea. I did it once and slightly warped the shaft with the heat of welding. That dizzy went straight in the bin. Locking the dizzy reduces the compression ratio 'at the time of firing' by retarding the timing. Re-graphing the mechanical advancement or modifying a boost retard (works opposite to vac advance) solenoid to the dizzy is a better option. Both myself and jono run locked dizzys for other reasons.

"4 door manual" what?

You ever had the '20 down the 1/4?

You can't have a hillclimb vid thread! :hmm: ......without !!!! :yes: