Taz_Rx

Basically don't go any smaller than the wires that go to the battery currently. Bigger won't hurt, just don't use 0 guage as that too big. 8 or 4 should be fine.

Also check that the points are good and the gap is correct. Can loose heaps of power out of incorrently set points. :D

10mm would be fine. :hmm: With your water and oil flanges....PM a member here by the name of Roids70, who's actually on line now and ask him if he's still using the fittings I gave him for the CT26, as they're the same. :D

Just get some laser cut. Might be $50 for both turbo flanges....and these CAN be mild steel, just not the actual pipe work.

Just make a flange on the end of the j-pipe to bolt to the stock(un-modified) exhaust manifold. See below....

ONLY use steam pipe. Mild steel will droop and inhibit response. So you mean somewhere like this......

Been keeping an eye on this as it ended today, went far to cheaply in my opinion! Would have bought it myself if I had the spare cash, and stored it away for another 20 odd years...... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...545106&rd=1 Had a bit more of a read of added info........ :dance: I'm famous in the states!!! :hmm: On a side note......Tar was running on the weekend!!! :) Sounds pretty tough at 5000'ish rpm staright out of the dump + turbo spool. ;)

Pretty sure they're rx4! :dance:

quick google search...... Came from here.. http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6516789.html As far as I know they're t3's

Have you got this rb20 t3 yet? If not find a GTR t28 (heaps on ebay...& I've got one too) as they flow 1300cc (twins) not 2000cc! :dance:

Yeah I know, bout time I got down there for a rotor cruise......but yeah thats the thing, gotta come down there!!! :dance: Were as everybody rollaclubber 'up' here's happy to meet in the middle!!

Trying to work out the correct gearing for the turbo/SC will be a mind fark. First you need to work out turbo CFM, then rpm at which this is produced, and work back from there with internal gearing (yes you're right - centrifugal sc's do gear up inside them. Can see in below pic how the pulley is offset from the centre of the compressor) and then pulley sizes. While always keeping in mind engine rpm, and when you want the response. To me it seems like trying to re-create the wheel! ;) If you have family that can make you a decent turbo exhaust manifold cheaply, then I think you'd be silly not to just go with a conventional turbo set up. :) Have a look at what I have been doing for the last 8 months to answer the carby vs EFI question! :dance: ~Yes they are a bit harder to get your head around (I like carbs for how user freindly they are), but half the reason why I'm going EFI is to expand my own knowledge as well as upgrade my car!! 150hp (110kw) isn't too unrealistic, but that would be starting to push 15psi, so be careful on turbo selection. :hmm: Should be able to quickly find all of the figures you need to work out the CR on this site. My appologies for car make/model......... :P

Stock gate pressure would be 6-8psi depending on conditions, ie weather, what gear etc.

Still in the planning process Fayt. If you could get enough Hobartians intersted, we can re-address the state wide cruise idea! :dance:

Um...probably forget about the home made vortech SC idea mate!! You simply not going to get the revolutions on the pulley to make any boost!!! You'd need like a 20" wide crank pulley with a tiny pulley on the turbo shaft and then you might get some boost at 8000rpm!! :hmm: I'd also forget trying to make a stock NA Honda ecu run a turbo K motor. You might be able to use the plenum/throttle body etc, but for what you'll spend getting a custom manifold made to join it all up you might as well jsut buy a 4ke or 7ke inlet mani!!! I personally have run around 20psi on a stock 4k, and have seen more boost run on other K motors. The stock 3k will happily live for another few years on >10psi, but if you want to re-build with forgies then you'll have a tough as nails little motor. Yes 4k head on a 3k will drop CR. You also need to do some research on fuel systems I think! :dance:

What with that centre gear MM???? is that a TRD item or something? Or is that very much custom?

Wiring issue - You need to "hot wire" neutral for the auto shifter for it to start. :abuse: 10mm out was probably sitting out of the spline. The clutch cable has probably lost the proper clip, so get yourself a small hose clamp. Standing in front of the car, pull the cable towards you, and keep an eye on the clutch fork. I normally pull on it as hard as I can, then back it off a little bit to set it. You won't be able to disengauge the clutch yourself, so even if you put it on as hard as you can it should be still off. Have a play around and see what feels nice on the pedal.

...hence the whole bigger sump issue! :abuse:

Dunno about auto and manuel tailshafts being the same, but I would assume they are. I can however confirm that K40 and K50 tailshafts are the same. :abuse:

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=2341 Read. :abuse:

117hp = 87rwkw......Which is not bad at all!!! :abuse: Keen to see some pics and vids. I use photobucket.com for both, but youtube is a more user freindly vid hoster. :owned:

Contact this dude. He's a rollaclub site sponsor so we should support him, he deals in whiteline products, and from I have seen has very reasonable prices! :nervous: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=16566

Will keep an eye out mate. :nervous:

:nervous: That's a bit hard to understand.....but I'm assuming that you are asking if you have to swap the atuo FLEX PLATE and TORQUE CONVERTER for a manuel FLYWHEEL and CLUTCH KIT!?

Haha yeah Mr Murphey is hard at work Darren!!! :lol: You think the suspence is killing you!!! |blink| As Matt said, I have been getting a bit frustrated with a few things, but I have had it running for like 5 seconds on the base map, so I know all of my wiring is correct and its running on 4 cylinders...bonus! At the moment: I can't get the timing set right as it won't run long enough on the fuel base map. I can't fiddle with the fuel mapping to get it idling as the timing isn't set right. My laptop won't connect to either the ECU or wolf cartridge to load Matt's map. And....as it won't run, and hence charge the battery, I have about a half hour time frame on a fully charged battery (12.6v) to work on it befor the voltage drops to about 12v and I no longer have a steady input trigger. So that's why Tar has sat un-touched for nearly 3 weeks now, and I have been digging cancer out of mud!! :nervous: