Taz_Rx

1, yes if you want the auto choke to work you're correct. If you can get it to idle cold without it then don't bother hooking water up to it. Some don't work these days anyway. 2, Not 100% on that carby, but most webers are mechanical. All you need to do is turn the throttle shaft to full throttle to find out!!! :y: If the secondaries don't open then its vacuum. 3, See if you can't modify the linkage off a stock corolla carby to fit the weber. :(

Its about bloody time we saw an update anyway!!! And people think I'm being slow! :(

Last time I had a windscreen replaced in a 55 we reused the rubber seal!! Remove the chrome (or chrome cracked :y: seal) push out winscreen remove seal re-fit seal to new glass push back in push chrome seal back in :(

Incorrect. I'm using a ballast resistor still with an electronic dizzy as a pickup for an ECU. That goes back into a M&W ignitor to fire the coil. Most older cars run 12v to the coil when cranking, and 6v while its running. The ballast resister does this drop in voltage. Only real important thing is using an appropriate coil for weather you have a BR or not. GT40 for example don't need one. the GT40R however does.

Only reason I asked about the auto was because of the ribs on the bell housing.....only autos a K-T's have these.

Dude, I used to work on weekends at a shooting club loading and releasing the clay target launchers! Have you seen a picture of what you're talking about? Unless its a little hand held throw type one (like those ball throwers) they're quite big and need to be solidly mounted on something. Couple of pics here....except these guys take it a bit further and use real birds instead of clays.... http://www.faace.co.uk/quail.htm

Just try and find another complete 4k for like $50! :) BTW, is this car auto?

haha and I thought I played too much call of duty 4!!! :) Yeah you haven't picked the best days so far (weather wise) for a stakeout, how this for funny...... Not last night, but the night b4, temperature in Antartica over night..... -7oC Temp in Fingal same night...... -7.7oC!!!! :y: :y:

If you don't "reco" the head then atleast get it planed (just to make sure its 100% straight) which should only cost you around $40-$50. :) Some people say not to use anything but a genuine toyota gasket (which is around $90), but I haven't had any problems with $23 permaseal ones!! Each to there own, but genuine stuff will always be the most expensive.

I should be a nice snug tight'ish fit, but not require heaps of belting to get in. If you've got access to some verniers the measure the ID on the crank and check that against the bearing. BTW, be glad somebody else got it out for you, thats the hard bit!! :y: edit: Oh and if you do need to "persuade" it a bit, find a socket with the same OD as the bearing so it sits against the outer casing, and hit that with the hammer. Don't wanna fark a new bearing just by whacking it the wrong way. :)

Or if its still parked 50m from the servo, then just fill the float bowl and that should get you there!! :)

Really good idea, but being 4 pots they wouldn't have pins to slide on!! Check the adjustment on you break pedal shaft as well.

How does a bracket that hold the oil filter increase oil pressure!? :P Spittao.....you really need to remove shit from ears (or eyes), and head from arse befor clicking that reply buttom each time! Don't make your reputation worse!!! :y: Chester - Yes they are 100% interchangable between 4 & 5k's. No problems like changing oil pressure or the like, and they both take the same part number filter. :yes:

That would be the only way a cooler would work on an NA car, but still be somewhat useless. as beerhead stated, the cooler can only lower the air temp to atmo temp, which is the same as whats being sucked in. The dry ice could lower your inlet temps to below atmo temp.

".......hence, be very affraid of any man who owns a pig farm"!!! :yes: [/snatch quote] Do you think they'll come back a third time Ben?

Should put another full pac of ciggies in there tonight.......and wait.....with a baseball bat!!! :S Was it parked on the street?

Yeah thats the one you put on the cart. :) Was pretty rough a few weeks ago when I had it running, but was really responsive today!! Got an outlet fitting for the turbo today, ordering silicone hoses on monday....couple of days of can go a long way! :S

Fixed wiring problem, trigger 5v was earthing. Think i might need to adjust my tappets! :S ....... http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/taz...16081558-00.flv

Thats why it handy to live in an area that classed as "industrial". That back street is residential, but wellington st in industrial. This means we can make noise till midnight whenever we want and the neighbours can lick our balls!!! :S FYI, drags are over for the year, will have to wait for a test and tune (which are better for getting more runs anyway) in August or September.

2 things I would check first: Swap around some plug leads from another car, including one from coil to dizzy cap. Check points gap.

Shuva, did you read any of that thread!!!?? I only had to read the first post..... That would explain why it didn't run the best, and I bet he didn't do anything timing wise which would explain the running hot (but thats ultimately just a 20+ year old heater core) and the blown head gaskets. There's 2 different types of backyard mechanics..... Those who actually know what they are doing,....and those who can't really be f@$ked finding out what they need to do! :poke:

I feed my turbo cooler water from my small radiator....the heater box!! Basically the turbo is just plumbed in series with the the heater so the water goes: Radiator, through motor, in and out of heater box, in and out of turbo and back into the heater return. Is your "garrett water cooled turbo" a GT series? or just like a T25/t28 etc? As ball bearing turbo can't be fed any oil pressure like a roller/needle bearing turbo, this is what ke25kid was illuding to. Ball bearing turbos only like about 16psi IIRC max of oil pressure, and need a pressure restrictor in the feed line. If you're pumping heaps more than this into it, it will start leaking oil as you have described!!!

Bleed your brakes and video us a decent cooker!!! :poke:

Serach youtube for MTX "Jackhammer" :D

Would be the same as my bro's fiat - (mostly LHD, modded for RHD). The brake booster is on the left and has a connecting rod running under the dash to connect the pedal the the booster input shaft. :poke: