tas_ae71

same as all bolts on your car anti-clockwise to undo

yeah or buy a better bucket seat... no need for reapolstering or ripping it apart to fix it when its brand new

i "belive" that the 4ac block has diffrent water galeries so the 4ag head wont match upto these. also they are 1 rib? meaning they are abit weaker than a 3 or 7 ribbed 4age block.

i have a brand new drivers side bucket seat, just 1. looking for $220 for it.

yes i have also heard of a guy whos wheel fell of due to spacers, this was most probaly due to him either getting very shitty 'bolt-on spacers' or not doing them up properly, he wasnt a very machanical type of guy. the guy whom I'm sponcering has a heavyish car, thats 4 stud and its a track/drift car. he uses bolt-on spacers and slip-on spaces and he has never broken a stud, he one stripped the thread on one because it was over tightned and corroded. i would not ever recomend using this much spaceing, just get desent wheels. slip on spacers ARE NOT DANGEROUS unless you 1) don't do your wheel nuts up in which case it wont make any diffrence if you have the spacer on or not, 2) you get a over size slipon spacer and do not have the deep type nuts rendering you with minimal thread on the stud. i have some wheels that require the deep type nuts, i lost some of the nuts and had only 2 of these deep nuts per wheel, and 2 ke70 nuts which only went on 3 turns. i did not have a problem with this but i wouldnt recomend this as being a permanant thing as it puts much more stress on the threds. anything can be dangerous if you don't take proper precaustions or use it in a manner other than directed. having said that, if you can get away with a 6-8mm slip on spacer and deep nuts i think thats your best option. bolt-on spacers need to be checked from time to time to ensure that they are still tight just as your wheels should be.

everything is bolt in! evept maybe the steering.. as long as you swap EVERYTHING so thats, enigine, box, tailshaft diff, and engine/box corssmembers and mounts. also put the t-18 struts into the ke70 because they have better brakes. t-18 seats are also alot better than ke70 seat and they will also BOLT IN. i would cut the tabs off that go on the cross member (ke70) and weld them onto the t-18 one so you keep the rack.

thats awsome.. are you sure its actualy a k-motor though..?

or get spacers for them.... less work then getting new calipers

i belive all kseries box's have a 20 spline output

just go to a wreckers with a measuring tape in hand and see what you can find..

push rod=loose :n: cam thats in the head OMG!! j/k, no reson that it can't be made to perform well, i know several push rod motors that will out rev dohc...

lol.. wider wheels and lower profile tyres will help to cut down on body roll. when i put 14x7's onto my other wise stock ke70 i was amazed by the handeling diffrence it made. was alot more stable.

upgrade to a free 4k :n:

you mean strut brace...? just grab one from a wrecked ae82 4ag model I'm fairly sure they came with factory ones... eapest and easyest option also kings superlows wont improve handeling 'that much' they will because they are newer slightly stiffer and lower the centre of gravity... probaly grate for a daily but not suited to hard driving. imo they are too soft.

what about just getting the pullies and getting a belt made seporately...? who actualy makes/sells them cause my old man is after a set...?

also diffrent brands may have diffrent hights that they some at.. so if you have to cut them to a lower hight this will effect the rate slightly and also its stroke. stiff short springs have not alot of travel, stock suspension has much more travel than is needed, this is also something to keep in mind when buying springs. the more expensive brands tend to use better quality materials and test/xray and crap but i have never seen a spring that has failed due to manufactoring falts.

yes and no, diffrent springs can have a diffrent coiling this kind of efects have it bumps. there are also progressive springs that have a finer coiling at one end a become more spaced at one end.

the information i had on tuning carbs was incorrect, i had another go at tuning it and got it alot better. i rear and a site that when tuning turning the mixture screw out was leaning it. i turned it another 1 1/2 turns out and i found that wehn the secondary opend a farge cloud of black smoke ploomed out from under the rear. turning it in about 3 turns stops it from smoking and its idel as returned almost to normal (not like it has a 282* cam). I'm not sure if this helps at all. have you tryed leaning it slightly..? like 1/4-1/2 a turn..?

eeerrr wack lol funny tho, would flip on its lid of you gave it a hard launch

on my 4ac, i seemed to be gettinng better fuel economy, then i had a fiddel with it to get a better tune and i now have much worse fuel economy.. it was hell rich before and used to chug black smoke now it blows blue/white smoke which is rather concerning :y: also the vaccume leak is most probaly for the adaptor plate gaskets. i had bit of trbole with mine when i first put mine on.

i would not recomend a cannon. a larger diameter exhaust with a sports muffeler would be a nice option, also would give slight perfomance gain due to the free flowing nature of it.

a couple of days ago.. went upto the local hills spot and found this :y: was heaps of ice on the road, was wheel spinning 3rd at just above idle speed.

unfortunately old Toyota's are way too easy to steal! hearing this makes me want to get on and put that immobilise in hats been sitting in my room for months. i would also recommend this, they are cheap as chips and fairly easy to install. it may buy you time only but it maybe enough for someone to see...

you get that with non cross flow.....

looks quite neat. i thin i will go with the solex, they are ALOT cheaper, so this is a more viable option for me atm, i would pefure webers or dellorto's but being a budget theme i will go with thats cheapest that works.