ke70dave

one thing that REALLLY annoys me is the following: Cars with VERY bright headlights. often i get stuck infront of someone that has extremely bright lights, and it drives me mad. headlights are beaming directly at me through the side mirrors, ive got my hand up trying to get the light out of my eyes. especially 4wd's behind me at traffic lights, maybe its cause my car is low, but its like an artificial sun behind my car. and don't get me started on fools putting HID's into cars that don't have the proper headlights for them. i swear its more dangerous for other drivers as we can't see anything once they point those lights at other drivers. and its not just front lights, last night i was driving behind a ford focus, and the tail lights were phenominally bright. i thought they just had their brake lights on, but when they braked MORE lights came on...MORE OF THEM. i was seriously considering pulling over and letting a few cars go passed. luckly the focus pulled off. i don't know if someone had had just put the wrong bulbs in this focus, but it seems to be more and more common to see cars with overly bright head AND tail lights. ive also been notcing an ever increasing amount of cars that have one headlight completely pointing in the wrong direction, so one headlight that is supposed to be on high beam will be pointing up into the sky...and blinding me... please tell me someone else notices these things too?

yeah check your wheels first, if its as bad as you say you should be able to see the out of roundness of them by looking at them. alternatively jack up both rear wheels, and CAREFULLY start car, put it in gear and watch rear wheels. or for a safter option get them checked at a tyre shop.... the big question is, how hard did you hit it? how fast were you going? and which side did you hit? pending which side you may have bent the panhard rod...or worse the panhard rod body mount.

what do you mean "like cut springs do"? cut springs are no different to shorter "proper springs", except one end isnt flat. with the correct length shocks they perform NO DIFFERENT than uncut short springs. simliar with the INcorrect length shocks they also perform NO DIFFERENT than uncut short springs. if you go and buy a pair of 220mm "proper" springs, and use standard shocks, there is a good chance they will wont be captive, and thus fall out too. ........ rebound travel is just as important if not more important than bump travel. if you are maxing out the length of your shocks your wheels are being held off the ground by the shocks when you go over bumps, and if the wheels arent on the ground, they cannot provide grip. thus your car will handle like poo and will just skate across bumps in the road.

how low is your car? the ones i have are for some commondore wagon.(FE2 though, so apparnetly stiffer..) part number 343113. they go alright with the ~4kg/mm springs i have. and if you go and find my members rides thread you can see how high my car is. but its maybe 140mm at the jacking seams, so pretty low. sierra shocks are miles to short for a car that is of legal height.

thanks for your efforts guys. I'm happy to help out with the FAQ editing/fixing. i spend far to much time browsing rollaclub to not be of any use. and i guess that would also lead into the introduction thing also. also in response to Raven: personally myself I'm a little hesitant to upload photos of my own car to the rollaclub server (or any forum server), i prefer to use such things as photo bucket. just so i can pull them down easier, and then any links to them on other forums will be taken down too...maybe I'm a little paranoid. maybe it would be ok for forsale threads, since you are trying to get rid of said car anyway..... its a hard one to judge though, as you don't get photos in the trading post, yet they still manage to function. i guess its more of people will expect photos given the ease that it can be done on the interwebs, so why not just make it mandatory. or there are so many people that arent actually intersted in buying the car, they just want to see photos.... on the other hand, if people don't provide a good enough advertisement they are only hurting their own sale, and thus i shouldnt care at all, but it would be nice to see a high standard of advertisements across the forum. (maybe?) i am amazed that so much time is spent moderating the for sale section, you would think we could function quite well at buying/selling stuff without making a fuss....

the best and easiest way to get a ke70 to drift, is to sell the ke70 and buy an s13. if you arent all that attached to the ke70, the s13 is really the easiest way to get into drifting. you can get turbo sr20 s13's for like 7K these days, a set of coilovers, shim up the diff, and your on the track in no time. a ke70 + 4age + suspension + T series + LSD = not much change from 8K if you do it all properly. and you would want to do it all properly as there is no point having an unreliable car at the race track.

also once the car is actually moving the thermo fan will be useless, as there will be more airflow from the movement of the car than the fan. i agreed with the others in that sounds like your just not getting enough flow through the radiator, id pull it out and give it a good flush, upside down etc. anyone know the thermostat opening temp of a K motor thermostat? 85 sounds about right for normal operating temp, the 4age thermostat is 82 deg, so maybe 85 is a bit hot to begin with.

that is interesting! how about making your contraption a little more complicated so that the air isnt rammed into the intake, but it still gets nice cold air? so like a "maze" that the air has to negotiate before it enters your intake track.

is this the one you are refering to? http://www.my-acoustic.com/Car/transplant/My_Car/Toyota_KE70.htm ive seen it elsewhere too, that was just a google image search of "ae101 dash into ke70" its cool though, he even used the ae101 aircon etc.

haha i love the rope idea. thats brilliant. also if the head was "rebuilt 10months ago" shouldnt they have done the valve stem seals then?

mmmm maybe not this time then. and i don't have a cams license yet either...or all the safety gear. and i would feel bad backing out of servicing the subi! as for the ke, congrats guys, i watched the video last night...although it was only on my phone, it was quite excelent. I'm looking forward to seeing it in action!

ahhh that thing is a whole lot smaller than i thought it was. at first i thought it was like as big as an airbox. but its smaller. looks real good mate! just avoid the big puddles hey, hopefully it doesnt go soggy.

brilliant mate! engine sounds very happy in that video. your brake problem isnt just rusty discs? (its been sitting for a while yeah?) did it get better after you drove it? great build, keep the updates flowing.

hmm not sure about that..... sure it wont rev as well as a 25 head, but they produce ALOT of power , they sure arent "useless". and its been done heaps of times, there was a guy with a pretty nice one, check the members rides section. custom everything pretty much to put it in a ke70.

If that is the gerard ive met (GT4 celica), ill be navvie;) surely i can multi task, service the subi leone as well as call pace notes:P In the words of jeremy clarkson "how hard can it be". any proges on the ke chris?

you could just cover it in fibreglass matting and resin? then grind it back to make it flat, then give it a few coats of paint. you would have to be careful as the resin would make the cardboard REALLY floppy untill it dried. you could make the same thing out of some thin wood, and then cover that in fibreglass matt and resin? that way it wont go floppy with the wet resin. if you have a router that would be a quick job, just trace out your cardboard shape onto the wood, run around it with a router and your done! what is it? looks like an airbox of some kind.

why tyres are they though? crap tyres will always understeer in the wet. (and prolly in the dry too...) i just got some Federal 595's, understeer is now a thing of the past. even in the wet they just dig in. (to a degree) stretched tyres wont help your cause either, but 185 isnt to much of a strech anyway on an 8". but the 45 ratio will make the sidewall pretty stiff, so it may not be ideal. especially if the tyres are crap to start with. if the only other mods are cut standard springs, then i have no doubt thats why it handles like poo. the main problem will be the springs being highly underdamped. and the shocks will be stuffed anyway if they are just old standard ones.

bit of a long shot.. but have we (as a forum) considered making it mandatory to have photos for car advertisements? almost everyone has camera phones, almost everyone has a digi camera, and everyone knows someone with a camera phone or a digi camera. of course its better to drive and have a look at the car if you are interested, but theres no way I'm driving to the other side of town to check out a car if a few simple photos could have told me that it wasnt what i was after. also avoids the first 2 pages of a thread being filled with "pics please" by various members. threads like this are what I'm refering too: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/45003-ke70-4age-up-for-trade/

i dunno if you have found this http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Circuit_Opening_Relay_Wiring but i used that to wire up mine. sounds to me like you havent got the start signal hooked up correctly? also, at home i have a pdf on how to make a circuit opening relay out of 2 standard relays. so if you want i can send that you way if your COR is just stuffed.

http://www.hoppers.com.au/brake%20kits/brake%20kit%20availability.pdf looks like they have quite a bit available. http://www.hoppers.com.au/complete%20leaflet%20FEB%202007/index.html

link here: CLICKYCLICKY

i too thought this about metalic but the dude at the paint shop said there is no difference between spraying metalic and non metalic, you have to mix them both with thinners anyway so no need to worry about "Getting all the flecks at the bottom". and the thinners/paint mix is REALLY runny, its simliar consistancy to say....coffee. (2 parts thinners, 1 part paint...if i recall correctly) so it gets pretty damn mixed up. just make sure you give the can a good shake before you start mixing it. it really was a whole lot easier than we expected (the painting part) you have to go a bit nuts to get runs. Just becareful around places like your fuel cap, the paint can get into the gaps and build up, then when you take the air away, the paint runs out down the side of your car = bad medicine. best bet is to go and see a paint shop or even your local spray painter, my neighbour is a "professional" DIY painter, been doing old holdens for years, so he gave us alot of good info.

yeah mate mine is metalic (have a look through my members ride thread for pics on when i did it, its prolly quite a few pages back by now though) you just need to do clear coat over the metalic. we did about 4 coats of color and 4 coats of clear. then you have to sand it back using ~1500 grit, then hit it with the buffing machine and some buffing compound. we really had no idea what we were doing, the guy at the paint shop gave us a quick 15min demo on the gun, then we went home and sprayed our makeshift spray booth grey primer untill we reckon it was working good. then aimed it at the car. turned out alright though, didnt get any runs or anything. just have to fiddle with the air control knob untill you get a nice spray. don't want to much air or it will cause orange peal, don't want to little or you will cuase runs. also, painting is the easy part, fixing dents and making panels smooth is hard. well not hard, just you need ALOT of time. the paint on my car (in most places) looks awesome, but the dents that i thought "would be covered up with the paint" look terrible:P note: PAINT WILL COVER NOTHING!! just make things look 400x worse. here is a photo just after i buffed mine (few yrs back now) http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/ke70dave/shinycar4.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/ke70dave/shinycar2.jpg

i wouldnt bother with cans. ive never seen a good can job on an entire car. (i guess that depends on your definition of "Good" too) only cost me around $400 to do it in acrylic paint, including buying a spray gun. (already had compressor)

the little dot on the outside of the cam. get the "big blue book" for 4age, its about 100mb has everything. its around for download. like so: