ke70dave

You can just cut ke70 bump stops with a hacksaw.

In general bolts are grade 8.8 or 12.9. Havent ever heard of grade 11.

9L/100 not bad at all. My factory s15 with an exhaust would get around 8-9 around town with occasional enthusiastic driving. Heres a question. How do you find the sprint 500 haltech? Given it ia their entry level ecu. I javent done much research into them but you find it alright? Have you mamaged to find its limitations?

How are you going to determine if the new oil is better than the old oil?

Just remember you can spend more money on 5L of oil than you can buy a replacement k engine!

Id guess with the electric windows you would be better off starting with a gineric kit rather than trying to shoe-horn in 25yr old second hand ones from a completely different car. Ive not done it myself and theres no way i would ever bother either.

yah i agree. I'm not sure id go an alloy radiator unless i really had to. Alluminium is soft afterall and doesnt take much to puncture it. I suppose your modern radiators are 90% alloy now with plastic ends, but i still like the old full copper/brass/wahtever radiators from the 80s, chunky as and last for ever. Ive had a clutch fan rub up against a copper radiator and it survived, not sure an aluminium one would.

Great progress matt. you are certainly in the deep end there! Body work is paintful, but very rewarding.

I filled it up again yesterday and got 10.9L/100km so pretty consistent! I was putting 95octane in but last 2 times ive put in 98 octane, which seems to make it run a bit better. Compression ratio is 9.8:1 so it probably likes the 98octane.. Currently it is running bosch L-Jetronic electronic fuel injection. Standalone vacuum advance distributor and an analogue ECU for fuel. fairly crude system but i think it was bosch's first or second OEM "electronic" fuel injection system, was used on all kinds of european cars at the time, porshe, alfa, beema prolly others too. I think even some of the early fords in ausi used L-JET? unsure. The distributor as mentioned is purely mechanical/vacuum operated, fairly cool in that it has an advance and retard vacuum things, so it has two vac pips on it. The EFI system Uses a trap door type AFM, takes a pulse from the distributor, and the injection is 2 groups of 3 injectors banked together. Has a coolant temp sensor and i think an air temp sensor inside the AFM. Its very crude the ecu only has about 10wires on it. But it appears to work rock solid and produce quite impressive power and economy for its age. I suspect the bottom end has been rebuilt and ive doen the head up, so the engine has loads of comrpession which definately helps with economy. The only downside to this system is it doesnt have an electronic idle up valve. Which is annoying as with the AC and powersteering the idle can vary a bit. IVe got it pretty good, but if the engine isnt completely warmed up with the AC on it can stall. I have a feeling that the AFM swing door thing gets itself into a bit of a state where it swings open and closed as the idle is hunting up and down and eventually swings too far open and floods it. looking forward to converting it to map for this reason.

How did the radiators fail?

Thanks mate. Yeah I'm impressed with the economy. And judging by the fuel ratios there is more in it yet.

Well another 3 weeks goes by! Up to almost 160,000kms. Record fuel economy of 10.8L/100km the other week. Not too bad for 100% suburban driving. Have put my old engine back together sort of and started laying out the engine loom. Plan is to get it done over the holidays. Ive been forces to take leave up to the 9th and the wife only has till the 2nd, so a whole week of free time to play video games, i mean work on the car! Been doing 12hr days for the lst 2 weeks which is gettig old, but still loads of fun driving to and from work. Heres a quick snap at 530am this morning in the work yard for fun. Being white you can't really tell how dirty it is!

This is cool as. Nicely done! Where did you even find a 3tgte?

Buy the kit from that ke conversions guy, i think its about 500. Sr20det and gearbox, not kuch change from 3000 these days. Custom intercooler piping and exhaust, 1500guess Fuel system - 500 Custom tailshaft - 400 Diff to handle the power and an lsd modified to suit your car - 2000 guess Wiring - free if you can diy, 1000 if you can't Front brake uograde to handle the power - 1500 Suspension to handle the power - 2000 All the small shit that comes up - 2000 Modification plates and or engineering - 500 to 1000 Racing seat so you can hang on to it - 500 Wheels and tyrea to handle the power - 2000 Obviously this is worst case scenario, and you may pick up bargains. But in my oppinion to do an sr20det ke70 properly its at least $10,000. Getting the engine in and running is like 1/4 of creating a good package. A ke70 with 200hp and shit susoension and brakes is going to be terrible. Keep in mind that a complete running sr20det s13 with mods, good brakes and irs is like 8k 5yhese days.

Daym, thats a record thread bump. Over 6yrs ago mate...

No car seats or sick bags yet, but damn the rest is spot on :S Unrelated to cars but we are currently trying to buy our first house (we are a few years behind due to our Canada travels). We have been to open houses every freakin saturday for the last 3mths. The whole buying house process is a stressfull and depressing situation. We have put a few offers in but the prices are out of control! Hopefully we have more success in the new year, as living at the wifes mum's house is growing old.....fast....

Well i don't have too much to report again. I've driven it every day to work (40mins each way) for the last 3 weeks and it hasn't missed a beat. AC is ice cold for these friggen ridiculous temperatures and the cooling system is holding up just fine. no more coolant leaks at all. I do need to flush the coolant with new stuff as with my leak finding i just used tap water to top it up (the bmw coolant mixes with tap water), so there is probably half the amount of BMW coolant in there than there is supposed to be. But it will be alright for a while. I've decided to hold off on my haltech install until the Christmas holidays, construction starts next week on a huge project at work so ill be doing some looong hours, no time for bmw's :( Anyway, i did happen to grab this amusing photo the other night. BMW looks like a small car even in the small car spot!

Yup. There's a special port on the carby for vac line to the dizzy.

It's a no from me on the new logo.

Unfortunalty alot of valuable info is from back then as that was the hey day of forums. With facebook no knowledge is retained anymore:(

Ah nice good plan. Ill have to come visit you again in the beema one of these weekends. I'm halfway through the ECU wiring job at the moment. Perhaps when i get it going ill head around. You can give me some tuning tips ;) Just thinking back your engine had a heap more low end grunt than my baby 6clr.

Excellent progress! You gonna paint the interior steel black? or paint the interior plastic pieces black?

The blue is just an interceptor type ecu, waste of time i reckon. Still relies heavily on the ecu, so if the stocko ecu doesnt work properly the emanage blue isnt going to help much. Hows that check engine light coming along?

For best results i would be aiming to mimic the oem setup to get the best out of oem ecu. Which sadly suggests all sensors including a speed sensor perhaps.

do you have a check engine light hooked up? if so have you been able to get any codes out of it? (i can't remember the procedure, but its fairly easy, hit the google machine) If you don't have a check engine light hooked it up, i'm fairly sure you can just put a regular bulb to the ECU pin output and the other side of the bulb to ground. Just double check the wiring diagram. I hooked up a temporary check engine light on my old 4age 16v ecu to get codes out, but that was 5yrs ago....