LittleRedSpirit

Just purchased an early ke70 to use as the shell. pics tonight.

This car is a piece of shit. I love it!!

Very nice, High Five!! (Say like Borat)

AWESOME!! Welcome back to rollaclub, Des. Thought you were gonna have to start Ronaclub for a while. I reckon he will finish this one, just tell your mum that you wont fit in in Beaudesert without a project car on the lawn.

Id like a red one or two. Camo?

Awesome!!!!!!!!! :)

It would certainly add to the appeal if you could drive there, and race in the car you came in, then cruise home. Keep costs down too. I really think if we didn't have some limits it would be too hard to compete. I can't see how we can all compete fairly if some people have money for mods and some don't. I don't think there would be any way to say anything goes. Initially, to gauge interest, I think we should just have a club day and cut laps with each other. In an organised series, you would need parity rules.

The question is, are you a purist? Turbo 4age.

Very nice. Looks like the straightest one Ive seen in a while. For budget rims you could grab some 14x5.5 inch steel wheels from a celica or corona, when you need new tyres. You will find some a bit wider and a bit sharper feeling than the 13x5s. If you can't have a ton of power you can at least have traction to envy. Best of luck with it. :)

Whats a diff face?

PM Beerhead. He has some good connections to get custom springs wound for you. Quite cheap too. Maybe 150 to 180 a pair from memory. Good luck.

Replace the ground from the body to the block. Then replace the ground from the negative battery terminal to the car body. Then test the trigger wire on the starter. This is the small one that links the starter to the ignition via the harness. It should have 12 volts or more. If it doesn't, then you may have a bad ground or bad contacts in the ignition switch. If you have a bad ground you will still hear the starter solenoid click, but it wont have any power to turn the car over. Just went through all this myself over the last couple of weeks. Also, you can test the alternator by rollstarting the car, then parking it and using your multimeter accross the battery terminals, as if you were testing the battery. It should be no more than about 13-14.5 volts. If it is higher then you may have a f@$ked regulator on the alternator and you may be cooking your battery.

I imagine that for parity reasons and to keep costs down, we would be looking at standard ecus for all. Its far cheaper and more consistent/better for novice mechanics. Most 4ages were efi, so that will be easier for all people to obtain the same setup. As far as suspension goes, I'd leave that open, and only restrict track width. To me the suspension/brakes is where the participants in the class would focus their tuning aspirations. Engine development is extremely expensive. Suspension development is also quite expensive, but suspension components aren't as easily damaged or as difficult to change. This would keep costs down in my opinion, while still allowing all of us to work towards a competitive edge for our cars. Sound ok?

That is soooooo lucky. So it seems they werent smart enough to get the itinerary from the websites then. Stupid Cops.

What a heartbreaker, Tedster. I hope its not too bad a problem. I have a junkyardish running bigport if you wanna do a quick swap, but its not really a quick swap kind of car now is it. :P

6 Bucks, what a ripoff. I paid 3.50 for mine, lol.

Spot on dude. I like your ballast idea too.

Some shots of the goodies:

You can use either a 200mm bigport 4age flywheel and clutch, or for a bit more bite you can use a 212mm clutch flywheel combo from a later model fwd 4age like a 20 valve or smallport. If your motor is fwd then you will want a spigot bearing too. Make sure you change the throwout bearing as it will stuff your pressure plate if it seizes. Also, you will need to move the clutch line that goes from the chassis rail to the slave cylinder away so the extractors wont hit it. Most people get a 90 degree banjo bolt off of a camry for it, or get a custom hose made up. My mod works fine and it is just a custom hose with the solid line shortened and rebent so it drops down from above. You will need a flaring tool and practice on a spare bit of off cut first, as you have to do it neatly to get it to seal. Good luck.

Ill come and help you if you like. Its pretty easy to clean up a bay. I have an awesome solvent at work for a chemical cutback if you need it. It pisses all over sanding.

Please tell me you are going to paint the engine bay. It would look awesome then!!

You idiots don't get the idea behind parity laws in motorsport. Why did I ask you little children to consider something more complex than 'I have a 4age in a tiny car, so I want to race so I can win'. If you think your random overpowered undersized shitter cars will give you close racing and results, you just havent thought beyond the bogan hp pissing contest that you so desperately must win. I'm interested in results which are related to skill. Not Horsepower per kg. Talk about stupid and ignorant. If you do not have even the simplest idea of why we have certain rules in motorsport, then this isn't the place for you to find out. Shame on you MRMOPARMAN. You should know better. Ive read posts of yours which were very clever and well thought out. This one, however, Id expect from a 16 year old with his first car. How many ke25s are even on the road? The idea is to have a car that is common as hell, and therefore cheap. Not increasingly rare and expensive. I'm so over all you goons. Please close this thread moderators. I don't think these people are even interested in motorsport. Just hektic poser shit taLKING AND i don't WANT TO BE ASSOCIATED WITH IT. :P

Finally I have removed the diff from the RA40 parts car I have. I compared it to the housing I have laying around which is a JDM Disc one. here is what I came up with: Top 4 ink Bottom 4 Link Spring lower hat ADM RA40 519 977 950 JDM AE86 494 980 930 The other thing is the mounts for all the suspension control arms on the RA40 diff are in a different relative position. They are all 10 mm further forwards on the housing. This effectively would lengthen the wheelbase by 10mm, when the diff and tailshaft from the ra40 is bolted in to an xe86/70/71. From memory Ive been told that an ra40 tailshaft needs 10mm cut off of it to work with a t18 diff in a corolla. Can anyone confirm this as I don't have a ti8/JDM ae86 tailshaft to measure. My RA40 tailshaft is 760mm from one mounting face to another.

Maybe next time you will all PM the details to each other.

Things have evolved a little, so I'm buying out Brads share of the car. He has other things to focus on, like his VT and his Piazza and business, I'm getting busier by the second, and at the end of the day its kind of stupid to split a car. No biggie, it will still go ahead, but its mine, all mine, AH AH AH ha.... I don't think Ill be pushing the timeframe as hard as the spirit, but I wont be as anal about it either so Ill see what happens.