Clapped out

Assuming its a 4 door, ke55 will get you out of trouble.

Yeah at a glance the cross member looks stock, haven't really looked at it too hard.

pretty sure I still have the engine cross member from that particular car.

C'mon, there has to be more pics? Ha ha! Not good to hear about the job, hope you find something soon!

Heya, There are a couple of underlining issues with the swap, not 100% certain on what they are, a quick search using the search function should give you all the answers needed, cheers!

Sweet, cheers for that!

Anything is possible, base and finishing coats were urethane, don't know about the primers. This time round I'm using just basic two packs, from start to finish, nothing flash.

Thankyou so much for your input guys! Really appreciate it! I've convinced myself that i'll bite the bullet and redo the whole car, it just wouldn't be right by just fixing problem area's! I'll probably avoid the blasting of the car this time round, just because of what styler has confirmed. Few guys have told me the same thing that the car needs to be sealed asap after blasting, unless I'm there, I wouldn't know. So i'll just strip it right back, and start again. Also, you can see with the indication of the bubbles as to where they have used bog, there is stuff all bog in the car, although i'll still remove the bog to make sure nothing is hiding under it. Big shout out to all your help guys! Cheers!

Company went bust not long after the car was done, not sure who they used to blast the car............

That would really erk me, paying for the job to be done right then find out you've benn ripped, i'll have to look into blasting a little more, walnut seems to be the flavour of the month. I'll do some research as to who has the better rep that's local. . I'm not sure how it happened as well, if I knew I'd let us all know. Your right, how does it occur under the sealer? It did take a couple of years to show its face. What bugs me the most is that I can never match the paint properly. As long as there is no rust.

Hiya guys, I'm a bit peeved off, got my car resprayed around the 9 years ago, got the car sandblasted, after lets say 3 years, the paint started to bubble. I thought..."humidity bubbles", yeah it happens.....so I didn't think twice about it. The time is now and I've got panels covered in all these "little bubbles", so on further inspection to find out that its actually rust. Not happy Jan! Long story cut short, cheap sand was used to blast the car (sand containing salt), causing what we have to date. So, my question is -Re-blast the panels? -Strip the panels back by hand and deox? -Should I go soda blasting? Will it removed the impregnated rust? -Will any of the above guarantee the removal of the rust to never have this problem again? I'm no panel beater by any means although this is going to be a learning curve for me. Any one who has had an experience similar to me, I'm all ears! Would love to know how you've gone about it, Or if your a panel beater/spray painter, by all means, speak up! Cheers!

These things take time, hang in there fella!

Looking great!

One thing to identify is to see if both the engine in your car and the forklift engine are either "flat top piston" or "dished piston", reason being is that the combustion chamber in the heads are different between the two. The way to identify this is the dished piston motor has "A LUG" positioned at the bottom of number one and number four spark plug tube recesses. The flat top piston engine will not have these. once that is rectified, then yes, the heads are interchangeable without any drama's,(providing they are the same), hope this helps, cheers!

Unless it came from a late/update ke30, slightly bigger, so was the ke36 van. Not sure on what the 38 vans ran, 38 wagons were pbr. All 55's should be pbr.

Great score! Rust doesn't seem to be bad, can't see much in the pics, cheers!

^^^^that's all good and well but remember the car was originally fitted with a 3k, 3k=1166cc 5k=1486cc Difference=320cc cheers!

Yeah pretty sure you need to with it being over the 200cc difference limit, cheers!

Looking really good! Now that the body is almost done, the mechanics will be a breeze, cheers!

OMG! Super sexy red! love it! Keep the pics coming!

What about rubber grease? That's what I use in mine and never had a drama?

No, no its not! Ha ha!

Usually just a bit of crap in the caliper is most likely, pistons usually tend to keep quite well, cheers!

Might be time for a full 2" zorst..............

See where the insulated wire is positioned on top of the coil(with the crab claw like connection), that needs to be connected to the ballast resistor, then from the other end of the resistor to the + side of the coil, then a wire from the - side of the coil to the dizzy, should get you sorted! Looks like someone has disconnected the 12v jump on start up, recommended it to be reconnected, cheers!