SLO-030

I like, I like. So quick too. Cheers Troy :P

Just head down to the wreckers and find another carb that looks as if its in good nic. even if it is a little poo, its gotta be better than whats on there now. My ke30 with a 4K-H (3K head) and 5spd would usually get 600km to the tank. I do 300km/week just to and from work and would be suprised if i used more than half a tank. and i didnt drive it like a granny either.

HEy all you photochoppers. Could someone have a go at lowering my ute so there is about half the distance from the top of the rear tyre to the bottom of the tray and then lower the front to suit. and the same amount of chop in this one too. CHEERS Ryan

I take it you were down at lonsdale on the weekend? i seen a T18 there not long ago still with relativly good bumpers and mainly complete

damn, you know me too well. I had bacon pizza last saturday. Mmmmmm bacon pizza :bash:

its a probability you wont be able to remove the cam without removing the lifters. Once you slide the cam out enough for the lifters to drop off the lobes the cam wont wanna come out any further (or back in for that matter) as the lifter will be up against the next lobe.

depends really, the more boost you run, the hotter everything runs and the shorter the life of the charger. If you find the equation for working out pulley sizes in that thread i linked you to. FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi ) Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 2 litres x 6000 rpm = 12,000 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (12,000/2 = 6,000 litres/min. This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost. SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio) Add the boost pressure desired (10 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). (10 psi boost desired +14.7 =24.7 psi) Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (24.7/14.7=1.68) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost) Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 6000 litres/min X 1.68 = 10,080 litres/min for 10Psi boost. To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??) CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed) Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC12 from the 4A-GZE is 1.2 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 10,080/1.2 litres = 8,400 rpm for the SC12. So, to make your wanted 10psi happen, you need to spin the SC12 up to 8,400rpm while the Engine is doing 6,000rpm. 8,400 is well under 12,000 so youll be safe running that boost. Its up to you how much boost you wanna run, but remember, the more boost you run, the more heat is created and the harder the charger has to work. SO, the harder you boost it, the shorter the chargers life will be due to heat and wear.

Spotted Scott in the SAK WAGZ. about 2pm on Jetty roade. 26 lookin sick as always

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=24596 follow this link. theres some info on the SC12's i think. also they reckon not to exceed 12,000rpm for these Superchargers

true. but you have to do things that are gonna make the scum think twice before even trying that shit.

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Insurance is only good if your car gets stolen or broken into. This is more, theft prevention.

i think you'll find that most places wont allow a 13B let alone a 13BT due to power to weight. PLus i have a feeling the engineer doesnt play as much of a part in it as state legislation does.

If it doesnt start i have a feeling they'd leave it and find something else.

Houston, We have a problem.

they come out thru the top mate. sometimes they wear in a little which leaves a tiny lip at the top of the lifter bore. an extendable magnetic tool is sometimes useful. The removal of the head will make getting the lifters out alot easier, if the heads not already off

Sell the 13B and get a good 12A. There are a couple getting around here in adelaide

I'm sure you could use the 86 PS rack, and just adapt it so you don't have to use the full 86 steering column.

I used to remove the Coil-Dizzy lead on the 25. Luckily i havent had any attempted break in's on any of my cars, Touch wood. Although my old mans 98 pathfinder used to get broken into a few times. The last time it happened the pricks stole a briefcase and a bunch of keys. The only reason my old man found that the car was broken into was that the people around the corner called him after finding his breif case and keys thrown in the middle of their street. Little Carnts

Nice mate, Will be good to see how she goes. Any further plans driveline wise?

fixed ;) 1JZ KE55; This thing is awesome, can't wait to see it in the flesh when she's all done. Any time frame on the finish date? or will it be done when its done? CHEERS Ryan

Has paul got a drop saw? I'm gonna grab some CRMS from work and see if we can't work some magic under those front fenders of yours ;)

agreed, the convo pro's looked horn

As Evan has mentioned, toyota builds a good car. so don't worry about taking it over 80 or 100. When i had my KE30 with the 4k, 4spd i had it out to 140km/h (private property) These cars and engines have coped with alot of shit over the years. BUT, that being said. If you feel bad for revving out or traveling at the speed of light then its up to you how you drive.

^^+1 I was just about to recomend Just Heads before reading Mick's post.