SLO-030

Please don't go putting falcon springs in. Do it the right way and get some proper lowered springs. Or if you want stiffer i have hooked up a few people on here with 6kg springs for ke20/30's.

theres a small dot on the rim of the dizzy. have the center of the rotor button contact in line with the small dot.

Hey Troy. I showed my old man the pic and he likes it. Could you possibly do the same but with a thinner whitewall. Cheers:)

Wow. interesting. I likey :y: . As for the ladies, ive removed the mud flaps altogether for now. Stop giving me ideas :S. Still trying to nut out an engine conversion for the old girl. I like the old engines but want something different.

Can i have some car with my rust, thanks.

Shocks are here waiting for ya.

I'll drop round tomorrow and drop off the Front engine cover. Like i said today, with the condition the standard oil pump gears are in now. I wouldnt go spending more money on another one. Apart from 2 tiny blemishs (1 on the inner and 1 on the outer gear) everything is perfect. Tolerances are super tight. Also made up the 2 pieces of angle for the radiator support. RHS should hopefully be in tomorrow, so if it does rock up you'll have them tomorrow aswel.

lol ^^ Doug, i have spotted that car before, down near my shed. Sounds tough :P

Since Mystik wont be coming on time-ish. Look for a Red 1 tonner and a Red MX5 :P Congrats Mystik, ya stik :(

What sorta things do you want made? PM me

note to self: Revenge is sweet

if ya want aircon, there are plenty of Ke30/55's getting around (and in the wreckers) with aircon.

yea, i agreee. As for the Stato grille, that means a full stato front. and everyones doing that these days. I recon the commercial front looks good, stands out from all the other stato fronted HQ-WB's. Cheers for the input tho, muchly appreciated :P. Should be getting resprayed in Shanghai red whe i get anothe daily :(

Because its not really a common conversion. Most people go for a 4AGE. But there are a few people that are/have put R series engines into corollas before. PM a member by the name of The Witzl. He's doing a 18R turbo into a KE70.

I like, I like. So quick too. Cheers Troy :P

Just head down to the wreckers and find another carb that looks as if its in good nic. even if it is a little poo, its gotta be better than whats on there now. My ke30 with a 4K-H (3K head) and 5spd would usually get 600km to the tank. I do 300km/week just to and from work and would be suprised if i used more than half a tank. and i didnt drive it like a granny either.

HEy all you photochoppers. Could someone have a go at lowering my ute so there is about half the distance from the top of the rear tyre to the bottom of the tray and then lower the front to suit. and the same amount of chop in this one too. CHEERS Ryan

I take it you were down at lonsdale on the weekend? i seen a T18 there not long ago still with relativly good bumpers and mainly complete

damn, you know me too well. I had bacon pizza last saturday. Mmmmmm bacon pizza :bash:

its a probability you wont be able to remove the cam without removing the lifters. Once you slide the cam out enough for the lifters to drop off the lobes the cam wont wanna come out any further (or back in for that matter) as the lifter will be up against the next lobe.

depends really, the more boost you run, the hotter everything runs and the shorter the life of the charger. If you find the equation for working out pulley sizes in that thread i linked you to. FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi ) Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 2 litres x 6000 rpm = 12,000 litres/minute. Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (12,000/2 = 6,000 litres/min. This is the engines air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost. SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio) Add the boost pressure desired (10 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure). (10 psi boost desired +14.7 =24.7 psi) Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio. (24.7/14.7=1.68) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure. THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost) Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and you get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. In our example this is 6000 litres/min X 1.68 = 10,080 litres/min for 10Psi boost. To decide on the correct size of supercharger you need to know :- 1. The swept volume per revolution of the supercharger. (Eaton M62 1 litre/rev, SC14 from a 1G-GZE 1.5 litres/rev, SC12- 1.2 L/rev) 2. The maximum continuous safe operating speed for the supercharger. (Eaton M62 14000 rpm continuous, Toyota SC14 12000 rpm??) 3. The maximum pressure that can be safely produced by the supercharger continuously. (Eaton M62 12 psi, SC14 10-12Psi??? teflon on rotors melts??) CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed) Divide the desired air flow (5313.6 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger (SC12 from the 4A-GZE is 1.2 litres per revolution). This will tell you the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must be run at to produce the volume required. 10,080/1.2 litres = 8,400 rpm for the SC12. So, to make your wanted 10psi happen, you need to spin the SC12 up to 8,400rpm while the Engine is doing 6,000rpm. 8,400 is well under 12,000 so youll be safe running that boost. Its up to you how much boost you wanna run, but remember, the more boost you run, the more heat is created and the harder the charger has to work. SO, the harder you boost it, the shorter the chargers life will be due to heat and wear.

Spotted Scott in the SAK WAGZ. about 2pm on Jetty roade. 26 lookin sick as always

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=24596 follow this link. theres some info on the SC12's i think. also they reckon not to exceed 12,000rpm for these Superchargers

true. but you have to do things that are gonna make the scum think twice before even trying that shit.

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