Raven

That would haul witht he BEAMS motor in it that last one.... but can't justify the price of 25k+....I could get a Lexus IS200 for that much.

Ahahaha, and what? Be so lethargic from the sugar overdose I'd have that I can't play guitar tonight? lol

Almost gives it an import type look. Good score!

Haha cheers peoples. I have a mudcake here too. So getting a sugar rush before band rehearsal tonight :lolcry:

The big two five. Soooooo gettin' shitfaced this weekend!

I've got a vid here. Not a landing or take-off vid, but involves a fighter aircraft and a wall. Who's seen it? Clickity Click!

Will be there in the Supra. Yay!

I saw it last night. Definitely enjoyed it. Megan Fox is well..........a fox. :dance:

Good idea Juzzy. If you need any pics of the reduction type in high quality, let me know and I'll grab some for you. Maybe somehow you could list the type of starter and what model corolla it came in along with a picture of the relative starter motor as well? :dance:

I wish I had a KE10 starter to compare with as well, but hey, thats all I had. :P

The comparison: On the left is the Standard Bosch Starter Motor and on the right is the Nippon-Denso 5K Reduction Gear Starter Motor. As you can see, there is a huge difference in the size of the motor itself.

How about you just start a topic in the off-topic section?

Its actually smaller in size than a standard early model K motor starter and weighs less too. I'll post up comparison pics if I get a chance tomorrow.

Can't wait to eventually useit in my 5K twin dellorto motor for my KE25 :P

Just thought I'd also post something of use to those people who love their K motors. The following are pics of a 5K Reduction Gear Starter Motor which I picked up for a measly 75 bucks second-hand from a wrecker. And yep, I havent cleaned it yet!

Arent digits numbers and numerals letters Trev? :P

As far as I remember, its a K to W bellhousing in those.

That would be the interior trim colour/pattern. There should be a paint code on the that same plate. Type up all the details of that plate here and someone should be able to identify which is the paint code. Cheers Raven

After 30 odd years i'd be inclined to say ratchet pawl or dodgy button release. Having worked with a company making the handbrake for the new VE Commodore, I can safely say they are heat treated and hardened but doubt they would last forever. Lets us know what actually happens to create the end result of the handbrake 'snapping' back down and we can try to help, or help yourself to Redwarf's handbrake assembly and see if that fixes the issue. Cheers Raven

How far up does the handbrake pull in total? All the way? Hardly at all? Tried dragging it up without your finger on the button (like they are designed to do)?

Its fun doing gearbox swaps hey. haha. I got a KE70 5 speed, but had another 5 Speed here that i just swapped the gearbox extension housings over with to keep the factory position (I like to keep everything in stock locations, but thats just me). I will agree that the ratio's arent the same with you as mine runs outta puff quicker than it used to in 1st gear.

T3 do a nicely priced kit. Includes longer sleeves, weld on perches, your choice of spring rate and length and upper hats. Works out to be $234 for the front pair + postage. I think it worked out to be around $270-$280 delivered. My struts have the same diameter as an AE86 strut (2 inches or 51mm) which is the same as what you're using. I'm also going to get camber plates too for full camber adjustment, as I'd like to go racing for track days in the future. Apparently there is another kit in the UK that has the sleeve sit between the top of the strut tube and the gland nut and the gland nut locks it in place. Not sure how safe that type of set-up would be but I'd be happy just to have a weld-on sleeve kit and also remember that if you're going for a short stroke shock absorber, you may have to shorten the strut casing and then put a 20mm spacer in the bottom depending on what shock absorber you intend to use.

I used to do window tinting. 35% fronts, 20% for the rest. If you own a utility vehicle (great for us KE36 owners), you can go as dark as you want on the back window :P

Haha, neverrrrrrrrrrrrrr Aidan! Figured out the issue though thankfully. The starter I got is faulty, but thats not the problem. Definitely not the alternator either Lesley as that is only in operation when the car is running and at this point in time, it wasn't even turning over. Read on and all will be revealed.... Bit of background info on how a starter motor works: How a starter motor works is the positive runs direct from the starter motor to the positive terminal on the battery. The body of the starter motor acts as a negative and then there is the control wire from the ignition. What happens is the control wire activates the solenoid which in turn throws out the gear on the starter to engage the flywheel and at the same time it cranks the starter motor over. It wasn't doing this at all. All it would do is throw out the gear but not turn the motor over. The Problem: So I had my neighbour come over to give me a hand as he's pretty switched on with electronics and we hooked everything up and tried to start it. It clicked, but nothing. Swapped the old starter motor back in and the solenoid click and the car turned over. Then you'd turn the key back and turn it on again and nothing. When I did that one of the times, the current draw was so strong due to a short in the wiring that it melted right through my negative battery terminal and there was no click (pics later). The problem lies within the actual ignition barrel connection as the contact points inside the connection are faulty and shorting because if i hold it in the one spot and jiggle the key (or this case a screwdriver) back and forth in the slot, you can hear the solenoid throwing out and the car turns over. So what was happening was there was a short in the ignition barrel connection which was causing the solenoid to throw out but not turn the motor over, so it was creating a constant draw of power which would heat up the wires and cause it to get so hot it would melt through the negative terminal itself. Not cool when things start smoking in the engine bay. The Solution: Easy enough to replace it. The whole ignition barrel wiring unplugs from under the dash. I also need another carburettor too as I lost a part on this one in the shed and a tiny small little spring dropped out which now wont allow fuel to flow to the motor as the needle and seat aren't working. I may just rob my coupe of its carb tomorrow until I have more money to sort out the carb issue or replace the parts that went missing. So if anyone has an issue of the starter motor consistently whirring away, this COULD be the problem you are having. Cheers Raven

I have RA60 struts sitting in my shed. Going to convert them to coil-overs for my KE25. I know for a fact RA40's work in a KE30 as I had a KE30 with them. I also have the RA60 Control arms on my struts which i'll grab some measurements tomorrow for you if so need be.