oh what a nissan feeling!

So the bottom end is now together, but thats about where it stopped for now. It turns out the oil pump I had I'm not real happy with, its not too bad but not good enough I have decided, so a new oone is on its way from seppoville. I also made my valves spring compressor suitable for the twin cam heads, a bit of a cut and shut..... But then realised I have no valve stem seals here, so i went down to the local bursons, $130 trade price. yikes!! So once again ebay and seppoland and some supertech ones are on their way for $65 delivered. All ready to go... and waiting.... Stall converter is on its way now, took all the measurements and ordered. slingshot brand, I was prepared for big $$$ but definatelty punished the wallet even more than I expected! Remaining corolla budget $000.10 .....It should be here in a week. Turbo lines, straight from china. Pretty damn good imo. Also bought some rear quarter rubbers for the ke25 off phils rotary, The only ones i didnt replace as I didnt know they were available when i painted it. They look good, but time will tell how they go with sun and all that...

Awesome, coolest ke10 in aus, love that stance too, perfect height. :yes:

If you do it that way the diff pinion will end up within 10mm of centre.

665 wide x 445 high, that is external dimensions. Sounds like it will be too wide for your pipes. jdm55 used an rx2 radiator in his ke55, considerably narrower, but needed to change the pipes. Would fit in your ke20 for height as the ke20 has more room in that direction than the ke55. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/34454-sr20-conversion-to-ke55-plus-rebuild-plus-pimpage/page__st__480

one axle needs to be shortened, but both both sides of the housing need to be shortened. Short axle goes into the long side, long axle gets shortened. Shortening an axle costs $150 - $180.

Easy, I,ve started the engine in my crown 3 times with no signs of a BHG to be seen. :lolcry: New record perhaps?

An engine is seperated into two halves, the top end, and the bottom end. Top end is the head and its bits. Bottom end is the block and everything inside it. So this includes pistons, conrods, crank, block. Bearings and rings are not really relevent to the term as these are rebuild items. So if someone has forged pistons and H beam rods then their bottom end is in fact "forged" or "built".

S13 radiator fits, standard corolla radiator hole needs to be widened - lots. Sounds like it would likely hit on your cooler pipes?

As per your previous post.... Clearly we have a different definition of what a 'stock bottom end' includes. In fact bar a few stroker engines out there it would seem everyone is running a stock bottom end. :lolcry: 2jayzeenoshit!

^^^look who's talking carlos. When are we going to hit the 1/4???

Your dad is absolutely correct, provided that your existing paint is not completely shagged.

I would advise that you find someone who has done this to a ke30/55 rather than reseaching ke70's. There are two many diffences between the two as mentioned, and you have already said that your experience with steering is limited. It would take a fair bit of knowledge to get this conversion to work even close to as well as the standard steering on your car, so unless you find someone who has got this seriously sorted on their ke30/55, you should likely go with one of the usual setups that are much easier.

Really quick progress there mate, must be great to see it all coming together so nicely. Radiator shroud looks good, should help heaps, just try to mount it with some space in between, 20mm minimum is recomended. Also that last hose is a good idea too, it will need clamps though, also will need the raised edges on the joiner to stop the hose blowing off, or it will catch you out later on. Maybe run a bead of weld around the edges to create the lump? :y:

The entire engine was fully built with high-end parts, stock crank yes, stock block yes. don't believe all the BS.

The engine is still undergoing rebuild after the big blow up. Scott owns clevland exhaust shop and a heap of his time and effort goes into the business, plus he has way too mant cars like the rest of us..... This thread will be the first place he updates. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67219785-2jz-Ke20/page118

Awesome, can't wait to see pics, and stories. :y:

Its a common problem with carby fed 4wds, how soon it happens depends on the carby you are using. Perhaps jump on one of those offroad sites and see if there is a particular type of carby people are having sucess with?

It a shame it isnt closer, but its never going to be close for everybody i guess. The drag catagory has to be street regoed car, so that rules out most of the fast corollas. I would have though the circuit and jimkana section would be pretty popular for the rolas.

Tidy work there mate :y:

^^^^^ Not everyone is from Adelaide.

Does your pickup come from the top of the tank or the bottom bung hole? Most fuel pumps are not designed to suck like that if it is from the top. You can buy ones that are designed to though.

The struts stay the same, so you will still have ke20 springs and shocks at all 4 wheels.

:lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: :lolcry: man that made me laugh!

i have an auto here, and I'm on the sunshine coast. It works good. Pm me if you like....

You can return to either, the only probelem is that the lift pump has to be much larger if you return to the tank, as it literally has to supply more than the pressure pump. If you return to the surge tank your lift pump can be quite small, as it only has to supply slightly more fuel than your car is actually using at any given time. The advantage to returning to your tank is a supply of cooler fuel, as it has not been circulated to your engine and through your fuel rail 20 times while waiting to be used. Although this is hardly relevent in most situations. Either way you still need an overflow from your surge tank back to the fuel tank.