springersrolla

so what is it youve changed or eliminated out of the equation? with either dizzy you put in, was the timing set right by a timing light, does the car run if you pull each spark plug lead off a a time and does it change the idle, if youve changed dizzy and its still doing it thats not your problem. is the adjustment bolt tight???? lots of things to check out to help us diagnose the problem

i have a 3k bigport here and it measures approx 80mm

hahaa yeah i was sitting there looking at it when i saw your post. that would be a huge help mate, at least help me get a start on what parts to chase

cheers for responses. the height of the bottom of the head to the rocker post base is 75.7mm

dropped the block off today, the pistons and rods looked pretty close to have already been balanced, came within 2grams of each other and they were covered in carbon. bores were pretty smooth and shiny so fingers crossed i can get away with a hone and new bearings and lightened flywheel. the head was have been flowed at 139hp but know nothing more on those details. engine builder and tighe cams have suggested goin to solids so now I'm on the hunt and slightly confused with all the info on the net. Can the 5k accept 202 valve springs and would that be my best bet?!?!? I have a 5k bottom end. 5k twin squish/ really small chamber head, with the 2 lugs on it. I have a old 4k rocker gear setup, maybe some 4k rods. I read felix i think saying bottomed out 5k lifters, 3k rods and 4k rockers??!?!?!? any info would be great so i can get the cam away for a grind and get it back together. Cheers lads look forward to some info

hey lads while on the question of shocks ke20 to 30, are the 20 and 30 leaf springs of equal distance apart??? any help or info would be tops. cheers

if u can turn the key to accesories, there should be a small pin hole you can push a piece of wire into in the side of the barrel this should let you get the old barrel out, do the same with the other and have a look. i wouldnt have a clue, but if you have both there give it a try and see how you go

hey mate, yeah as far as i remember they are the same 4age and 3t, i looked at buying a set, identical thread pitch and length

the taper on the sigma ball joint is way out for the ke steering arm taper insert. i used a rat tailed file and emery paper and worked both the shaft and steering arm hole, when i bolted the 2 together firmly i think the taper was out almost 11mm. thats just ʞ©$ɟing shit in my eyes so i worked on its profile and tried to match the two up as well as i could. when i was done, the taper sat in firmly and securely with about 4mm instead. not great, alot of time spent filing and playing around and i was ok with the end result. do it properly or try to get the taper to fit better. 4-5 degrees is huge and stupid for a street car anyway, it will just draw attention and wear front tyres. get a set of ke30-55 lcas for $20 from wreckers, will bolt in and give you 2-3 degrees, sell your sigmas for what you paid, happy days

ive got a set of twin 40mm webers with manifold, that was running on a 4k..... doenst make sense to try swap all shit over to something and make manifolds when its sittin there. would be hell ʞ©$ɟing cool but

yeah nah not overly alot of money its a stinking ke35! i have the webers and head, more just after bottom end info and what not, ideal cam, knife edged crank maybe, how much success is acheived from all that hard work? is it worth upping compression ratio or just skim head an be done with it. i don't wanna spend to much on the rebuild

cam is hydraulic and will leave it that way, no solids, i get the shits with adjusting rockers. Pistons are standard, bores are slightly oval shaped according to my inside mic's. No idea on the piston scenario of dished or domed or what. i know ther was info about 4age slugs and suzuki bike pistons also i think.... compression would be great but it will only recieve ultimate so 9:8 to 1 to 10;1 will be the desired ratio. No other options i can think of really stand out, i have adjustable cam gear, will get flywheel lightened, bottom end balanced, other than slugs i think its all i can really do. n/a of course

yeah man all over that guide, built a few 3ks and such but never really worked a 5k, just weber and extractors. now i got the twins and the worked head just curious what others have done with ther 5ks and power they got, its only ever gonna be a weekender. i saw some gillys for sale the other day, ther alright, not really in to them, sick car but

Hey lads, plan to build my 5k soon and wanna know if there's any suggestions or ideas on what way to go. I've been collecting bits for years and now have... Twin 40mm webers with manifold, ported 5k head, electric dizzy and pacemaker extractors. Now other than a cam and a balance is there anything else I can do to make more power??? Any ideas will be tops cheers

I used an entire shifter from a t50 in a k50 and never had a drama, and my t50 shifter has never caused a drama in my k50 box. Correct me on angles but they looked bloody identical and seemed to work as well as each other. Mind you as cam said possibly later model k50 ke70 5spds

The shifter itself??? Every k50 and 2/3t to suit shifter i know is the same, probably get a short throw or keep looking. My t50 was identical to k50 in regards to shifter

the gearbox will bolt in no dramas just the gearbox position. In all honesty and bet everyone one here has done this. bolt engine and gearbox in, find hole, cut out with 4" grinder or tin snips, cover old hole with a bit of scrap and tech screw it then cover in carpet. its easy as ʞ©$ɟ, not a show car, do it be done with it

I had the same drama fitting extractors to my 3t, it is an emissions setup, it runs a branch of 4 threaded tubes into the head into a main pipe.i ended up sourcing a emissions setup off a legend on here who I can't remember the name of,. and I cut each tube about 25mm, slid a bolt inside and welded it air tight. Pain in the ass but I couldnt get the appropriate bung cheap enouhh

i have a ke11 i havent touched since i bought, needs body work, as far as my experience and lack of knowledge on these cars i believe the c pillar runs some sort of air vents. i can see quick body work there(60 grit scratches/bog sounds when tapped) question is by the photos ive seen of both 10/11 what is supposed to be there, and if i bring the car back to scratch and respray is this c pillar area going to be a indication of bad body work/rust/ poor prep as opposed to having what i should have there? ive seen heaps of different photos but still can't determine whether its sposed to be chrome or standard body colour slits or grill?.. and photos.... any help would be great as i can determine whether to cut and start again or not. cheers

started and drove both yesterday. one beautiful and wicked and registered to drive. one shit soggy and unregistered. got the soft spot for the soggy one. can always improve for money but looks don't count big dollars, spent heaps on the 35 only to probably sell it to a mate by the sounds of it, it was his to start with. i reckon 1 project 1 mission, always hard to share the love with minimal money between. hope its the right decision. i never wanted a track car just something that dropped jaws made lots of noise and went no where. ke11 wins hands down

I'm pretty sure superpro/fulcrum have a few and i know they do the idler arm bush replacement. let me know how you go i wont be far behind you

seen a fat little ke26 pano in a gloss grey with chrome headlight lids crusing thru ipswich on friday. tidy chic driving it looking a bit rockabilly. car looked the goods!!

i think we both know, buy another corolla to settle the confusion then theres more not less to worry bout

hey dudes, just sold my number 1 means of transport. now I'm left with 2 rollas, 1 a sweet ke35 with everything done, 3tc weber exhaust etc, and a ke11 i bought with a apparent "hot"3k. I need a car and have never relied on my corollas to get to me to and from work everyday but the 35 will no dramas. Problem is i really want to build up the ke11 and put my hot 5k with twin webers in it. but really its not gonna happen for a few years now and is ultimately taking up space unless i find some decent time to put in to it. So really, Do i keep the 35 and love it, or fix up the 11 and sell the 35... or vise versa. I think flick the 11 at the moment cause i havent started it but ʞ©$ɟ its a great little car and would go sick with the worked 5k. I keep thinking of just selling corollas in general but i have a soft spot on them and the 11 will be my 8th corolla to date. not an easy task to let something awesome go but not sure if its worth sittin on or not. any help would be good, probably just thinking to much with a keyboard at the moment cheers

good shit! something so simple but!!! not a bad thing to upgrade on old cars when everything corrodes