altezzaclub

Yes, but don't use a ballast resistor or the red will feed your dizzy only 9V. That's why mine is on the key-side (12V feed) of the ballast resistor.

My electronic one has two wires, one red, one black. Red goes to ignition, so I have it on the key side of the ballast resistor. Black goes to coil -ve. A stock mechanical ignition just has one wire, which goes to coil -ve.

Dead right! ...as I found when I pulled one apart at the wreckers this morning. Thankyou Sir! So all the wiring is where it should be under the relays, but the plugs from the loombs have empty ports. I found the earlier Camrys (maybe late 80s-early 90s) have similar relays, while the later ones have new designs. Sadly the one I purloined is 'normally closed', and I need a 'normally open'. I'll pop down there again on Monday. Hopefully this project will look more 'factory' than my headlight conversion!

Today I picked up an electric fan (Mazda 121 or similar, newish small hatch) from the wrecker for $5, and $40 worth of thermoswitch. Welll, actually I got a set of new front brake hoses, a pair of rear Monroe GT gas shocks and the fan for $20. Having mounted the fan on the rad I was working out where to put the relay, and found that there is a space for one in the KE70 relay box! So some KEs must have had one! The big question is... does anyone know which wire to hack into for the thermoswitch, such that the ignition/relay/fan wiring retains as much KE70 as possible. Meantime, I'll go look at the KE70 wiring diagram. Writeup to follow....

Its a Govt Dept... They're not paid to be efficient, accurate or correct. The public is always wrong. What's worse, seeing your car obviously doesn't exist, they will revoke that non-registration you use and you will have to prove it is a '76. Probably the cars were not sold, or at least put on the roads here until '76, and yours was made late in '75.

Excellent- first thing is to pull off the wires on the coil +ve and the ballast resistor +ve and make sure that the coil gets power when you turn the key to crank it over, and the ballast gets power when you just have the key on 'ignition'. Run the negative wire of the tester straight to the body somewhere to earth it. Then both of those wires go to the +ve of your new coil. Once you can confirm power to the coil +ve, hook it up and check the coil -ve for 12V to earth, then with it all hooked up and the points open, check 12V to earth on the points arm. If the points are closed you won't get a voltage reading as it goes straight through them to earth.

Ah- you definately do have wiring problems! OK, the "R" on the coil name stands for 'resistor', and that would have been a 9V coil. Without the 'R', the coil will be 12V. So you will have to run both the 'start' ignition wire that is on the coil +ve normally, and the "run" ignition wire that is on the ballast resistor normnally, both to your coil positive. This is because the 'start' wire feeds 12V to the 9V coil when cranking, so the coil works at 100% efficiency under the reduced voltage from the starter motor load. Then when it starts the ballast resistor drops the coil feed to 9V and just dumps the other 3V out as heat. Your new coil will run at 12V when driving, but struggle a bit when starting under 8 or 9volts. Not that it will worry you, I expect it will be fine for years yet. Now, the temp gauge wire is earthing out if the gauge goes to 'hot' when the motor is not running. I have a feeling it is on the oil pressure sender unit, as that goes to earth when the motor is off. Find the temp sender wire and trace it. On both my cars it is yellow-green on the temp sender, and yellow-black on the oil pressure sender. Those wires join into a loomb behind the dizzy.

Here- These guys have diagrams of everything on your car. You can see some of the joints I was referring to here, although you have an L-shaped LCA rather than the KE70 straight one. Take a look through the steering and suspension pictures. Jack up one wheel and see if you can make the noise turning the steering wheel back and forth. If not, try the other wheel. Bounce on the guards lightly and jam a big screwdriver in the joints and lever them around... The moment you can make the noise another person can lie under the car and find it for you. Good luck

Take a look at what is involved in the suspension & steering, then Google images for similar ones. Look for swiveling joints and moving parts. On a KE70 there is the steering rack, which has a bush at one end. The rack an bush wears out. The rack is connected to the steering arms by 'rack ends', spherical bushes that wear out. The other end of each rack end goes to the balljoint on the steering arms under the strut, and those balljoints wear out. The steering arm is connected to the lower control arm (LCA) by a spherical joint, and they wear out, and finally the strut itself rides up and down on a bush around the shock shaft, that wears out and the shaft gets bent. All the above cause clunks when riding over bumps...

I had a funny feelng that was what you meant, but I couldn't see why anyone would replace the housing and not just the filter. The attachment is a one-way valve, part of the anti-pollution gear I think, but I can't remember what it does. I'm pretty sure if it leaks it affects the idle straight away, but this was 40years ago on Datsuns. I took all the non-essential hoses off the KE70 and blocked the tubes when I bought it, then I fitted SU carbs. Someone on here will know....

Arrgh! Must be the hot weather! I hate it when all my cars break at once!

..and if either Celica had a sway it should fit, I think they are identical widths as I have the RA60 diff with an RA40 sway in a KE70. Tempting isn't it... Maybe the answer has been in front of us all along. Like a Ford Escort RS2000.

hmm.. this is air filter- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Blueprint-Air-Filters-Toyota-COROLLA-E7-1-3-KE70-79-85-/261295124113 It has no attachments, so I'm wondering which part you replaced?

It has no grunt and and will forever be a little 1300cc... so it will rev happily if modified, cruise at 100kph no problem, not use much fuel, be fun to drive, but I reckon it will never be a drifter unless you have it on 135x13 crossply tyres! Its just a another engine- do a compression test, watch for water leaks, head gasket water usage, how much oil it uses and that will give you an idea of how good it is compared to brand new. Fit a decent carb, get a cam cut, extractors and exhaust and get the flywheel lightened and balanced. If its pretty worn out bore it to 1500cc with 5K pistons. Otherwise, throw it out and fit the famous 4AGE or a 3SGE. You could turbo or s'charge it. The points problem is probably a bad condensor, grab one when you're getting the meter. Maybe its the coil, but I'd do condensor first, if the points are worn grab them too.

Nice idea! Can you just trim the plastic of the Celica surround to fit?

Nope- you have to learn what each component does and how to wire it up... Trace the ignition power from the key through the ballast, the coil and the distributor and let us know what you find. Pull each wire off and measure the voltage with a multimeter. Start with the points, is there power there, and work backwards

Air comes out of the other pipe when the PCV is shut. The PCV just pulls out of the rocker cover. It has to be vertical to work so look up as you cover your mouth with oil! You can blow one way but not suck the other if you suck quickly. You actually suck the piston down onto its seal against a light spring, same as the inlet manifold does. If you can suck and blow easily it is broken. However I would expect it to give the motor a massive air leak if it was busted, so I reckon it is OK.

What Dave was after, is what 'blown' means. Unless a motor has dropped a valve and smashed a piston, even a really really worn one will idle. If fixing the gasket doesn't help it idle, then the carb is suspect, and I expect that will be the case- blocked idle jet or drilling or similar. This is assuming you've set the plugs and points and timing??? As the points wear they close up, retarding the timing and lowering the idle until it won't get up and go and won't idle.

Damm, they're good! Sounds like someone skimmed the head... Maybe the blowby is from that. The smoke from the exhaust as you drive away after idling at traffc lighs is from valve seals, if it stops when driving. The oil gets sucked down the inlet valve guides under high vacuum at idle but not at low vacuum when driving. The smoke that comes from the exhaust when you drive away from traffic lights and doesn't stop is from rings, either oil rings or compression. Worn oil rings let oil up into the combustion chamber and put smoke down the exhaust, even if compression rings are good and blowby is low. Worn compression rings let compression gases down past the pistons and the PCV system sucks them into the inlet manifold, so they get burned and out the exhaust too. So if its coming out the breather its compression rings, and if you pull the breather pipes off and it still smokes when you drive it then its oil rings. Worn oil rings make a car more smoky than worn compression rings. Think of the advantages.. You can do all the strip and assembly yourself, they are simple motors. While it is out you can have the flywheel lightened and the crank balanced, and if it needs a rebore you take it out to 1500cc and use 5K pistons. If it just needs a hone and rings there might be money left over for a cam grind...

You're right- As the other guys said, the PCV sucks the fumes that get past the rings out of the motor. However the PCV only works at partial inlet manifold vacuum, such as overtaking, and at idle the valve gets sucked closed. When the PCV is working, the vent tube passes clean air from the filter into the motor. When the PCV is shut the vent tube passes fumes from the motor into the air filter. That is where the oil is coming from, and it is a sign of worn compression rings. How worn?? Well, when you're finding adding oil to the motor is getting too expensive, they're too worn. Until then, its not a problem, just ignore the oil in the folter box.

LoL, the lengths drivers go to for weight saving! We took an Abra file to the Datsun hinges, a hacksaw blade that cuts in any direction. We left an outline of the hinge and the boltholes! I've seen drivers cut the spanners in the toolkit shorter to save weight.

First find out where the tractor noise is coming from- manifold to head gasket or manifold to exhaust pipe gasket. You could always use a length of plastic tube stuck in one ear, it will pinpoint a lot of noises. Make sure you get a one-piece gasket when you do what Dave said. Also, check the manifold faces are flat so they clamp the gasket tight, and clean out all the bolt holes in the head. Don't forget to grease the threads as you assemble it, dry threads will reduce the clamping pressure. Like this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/

Sure, but they all do... Exactly how much is too much, that's the big question. My motor has probably done 170,000km, definately under 200k, and I'm happy with it using 1/2 a dipstick of oil per tank, which is my normal run from here to Tamworth at a good 100kph cruise. You would need to hone the bores for new rings, and you wouldn't want the grinding paste getting on the crank, and if you pull the crank out you might as well lift the empty block out and do it easily on a bench.... That's how small jobs become big jobs! Now, smoke from the breather is from worn compression rings, so the answer is to do a compression test. Once you have figures, squirt a shot of light oil down each plug hole and repeat the compression test. The oil helps the rings seal and if the compression goes way up you can assume the compression rings are leaking. If the oil doesn't help your misreable 120psi compressions, you can assume the valves are leaking. If you have over 130psi don't worry about it, keep adding oil when you gas up....

Maybe... I thought it cut the idle jet feed line so no fuel could be pulled in by the manifold vacuum and allow the motor to 'diesel-on'. Cetainly the SUs will boil sometimes after a run, makes the garage smell of fuel, and there is no solenoid on them. Tyler, do the whole tuneup as soon as you get time. There is probably more than one problem and once you've set everything to factory spec you will get maximum power out of it. It could be the electrics (points/timing) or carb that is making it hard to start, and checking the points is easy and quick. If the tappets have closed up they will be holding the valves open and reducing the compression, making it hard to start. On the car I've just bought the exhaust valve gaps were fine but the inlet valve gaps were half what they should have been. So half an hour spent with feeler gauges there would be time well spent. Then check the points gap and plug gaps with the feeler guages, reset the timing and you've done everything except set the carb screws. If the points have a mountain on one side and a crater on the other, replace them and the condenser. Once the metal slag builds up you can't get a good measurement of the gap.

Well said, and now that I've googled it I'll have to head out that way on my trips to Kingaroy. The road looks great! Ausse would truly be a wasteland without the Great Dividing Range!