altezzaclub

patience... & roll them outwards from the underneath, but still not very saifactory. Some bluntish flat blade to get them started, can't remember what I used.

What is the fit like with that?? Do you have to shorten them?

The diff ratio you need depends on how fast you are going to drag to. Ideally I'd say you need to win the race just before you change gear again, so you are using 1st and 2nd to their best potential without changing gear again and losing time. 3.7 will mean you go faster in each gear before you change. A 4.3 will give the motor more revs but you will change gear more to get to the same speed. Smaller wheels have the same effect as larger diff numbers. If you use 13" they will spin very fast and you will change gear often, while 17" go faster for the same revs and you spend longer in each gear.

Could be mechanical noise from something touching as the motor leans. I get a ticking from the motor under power that changes if I pull the out the choke a couple of mm, so some vibration in the motor is rattling the choke cable and the dash is magnifying it.

Bet you didn't connect ..... idle shutoff solenoid. Actually, it should start but not idle if that was the case. If not, does it have spark at the plugs and can you see the fuel being sprayed in down the venturi by the accelerator pump?? How long has that stock carb been sitting around dry??

Here's a couple more pics-

Post up a few pics of what your DCOEs have on them for throttle connections. here's what I did- Red dots are the throttle cable, which obviously pulls. Black dots are a shaft made from buying a long bolt & welding the cable quadrant onto it. The white uprights are bits of shelving brackets I had lying around home. They bolt onto the manifold. Teal dots show the adjustable arm on the cable axle, that takes rotation to.. the purple dots and they push an adjustable Redline link bar. That rotates the green dots, an adjustable arm on the throttle shaft connecting the two carbs, shown by the yellow dots! At each end of the throttle shaft is an adjustable link onto the throttle butterfly of each carb. ..and THREE return springs, a main one for the cable part and one on each carb in case the main one breaks. So it is all fully adjustable to turn the correct rotation from the cable to the correct rotation of the butterflies. You don't want to have the butterflies full open at 80% of pedal travel or you break something by pushing the pedal too hard, and you don't want full pedal travel to open the butterflies 80% only.

There is a place on the West Coast of USA that amasses stuff for Aussie and sends it over in bulk. Somewhere on here is a post about it, the guys using it bring in all sorts of car parts quite cheaply. You just pay local delivery on Ebay and a part of the shipping container.

You will need a wiring diagram really. Try tracing the wires from the ignition switch down to the engine, they obviously power the fusebox, instruments, alty & coil, and something must be shorting out. Anything that livens on "igntion" and not just "accessories", so indicators would be another one. Just start disconnecting things on that line until it stops blowing a fuse, although I'd strongly suggest you buy a $10 multimeter and just check for ignition going to earth each time.. There are diagrams on the web.

Nah- the Noob Tube is the semi-auto sniper rifle in CS.. I thought Photobucket had a time limit that you had to visit your account within, and also a maximum size that your account could reach and still be free. Having had a look over it just now I can't find any reference to either of those! Maybe they're dropped them. Anyone else want to check?

My mate Ron- stock with some very sticky Dunlop tyres. I'm the sane one behind him...

Start with points gap and then timing, so you know the ignition is firing it at the right time. As the points wear the ignition gets retarded and the idle speed drops. Then check carb- Idle jet is most likely culprit. Try increasing the idle speed on the idle screw, and adjust the mixture jet to see if it makes a difference. If you can't get the mixture screw to do anything, its likely the idle jet is blocked.

Ag man! That's terrible, the slanty will never look as good! Still, where else would you get hit by a drunk 15yr old- you shouldn't hang out at the shebeen! Are you out Bellville way? The mountain looks far away in the photo. I used to live in all sorts of places from Waterkant St to Wynberg, years ago when those cars were brand new! Are you going to try clubman's racing at Killarney? Great fun, didn't need a roll cage or any fancy gear....

Probably a 3T in the States, I doubt you will find any 5K over there. Basically any 4cyl under 2L, but you might run into brake cylinder clearance issues with some of them. Your steering wheel is on the wrong side! :laff:

My electronic dizzy has 4 points on the rotor shaft that sweep past the pickup, so align #1 with that. There's only a mm gap or so at that point. The jets have numbers stamped on them, each is composed of 3parts- a fuel jet, an air jet, and an emulsion tube in between them. Each component can be changed and affects performance, so spend a few hours on Google learning about jetting Webers. Find an old Fiat garage if you need jets, they usually have a boxful under the bench. http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgcc/midgetreg/Weber.shtml

Plans for it?? Rust doesn't look too bad, so a full strip & respray will make it better than new.

I also grabbed a par of stock rear springs to try and soften the ride for the trip, and although they are one coil higher and lift the car an inch, the ride is very much the same. So in that photo above the nose is an inch lower and the tail is stock height. The other thing from the wrecker was a Commodore bonnet insulation sheet, which now sits above the mighty 4K! I think its a tiny bit quieter, I can hear the wind noise around the driver's window more!

Wheel nuts! Don't talk to me about wheel nuts!! The ones I need don't exist! When I bought the Datsun over from NZ in bits I had saved 4 Datsun factory rally mags from the dozen I had. Then I sold things like the rally suspension to a guy building a Southern Cross Rally replica 180B, and he swapped the works mags for a set of ROH. Having never got the Datsun on the road here I hadn't driven on them, but figured they would gear the KE70 up on the trip to Cairns. 13" KE70 wheels have a radius of 265mm, the 14" ROHs have 285, so that's 7.5% decrease in revs, compared to a 4.6% difference in changing diffs from the auto 4.3 we have to a manual 4.1. Its 260rpm at 100kph... say 3610 down to 3350rpm, suddenly closer to 3000 than 4000 for cruising 10hours a day! So in my endless search for the ideal wheel nut I headed down to Cowra this morning. 'Down' is the word, Orange is at 850M altitude and Cowra is at 300M, although there are many ups and downs. The tyre change killed the sparkle it has around town, it takes more to get it moving, and it has knocked it back to stock when hitting a hill! As soon as 3000rpm is reached its down to 4th instantly. Cruising is fine though, I think I'll still end up sitting on 3500revs, but just go faster. When we bought the car I was quite happy with burling along at 90kph... now I expect ti to do 100kph everywhere!

That sounds terribly inaccurate, unless they have another mark opposite the 10deg notch. My Gregory's says to 'align the rotor with the mark previously made on the cylinder block.' If I were you I'd just set it up with the TDC mark as usual and make sure the points are opening at 10deg BTDC on cyl one.

Yes, non-LSD will stop it jumping sideways, but will spin the inside wheel or the driven all the time instead. Terrible idea! Fit traction control instead. You'll just need an ABS setup, a computer, and fly-by-wire throttle... :laff: The 4.1 diff will light up the tyres even more too, although reducing boost will help stop it sliding.

Now seriously, if this clown was talking about storing Japan's radioactive waste on his OWN land I'd give him some credit, but he's talking about The Govt storing it on 'everybody's' land... Your Govt will poison your country for you! I suppose the next thing will be the invading American Marines practicing with 'depleted' uranium up around Darwin!

Sadly, no fit - Although I think there are K-T bellhousings still around.

Get the crank and the flywheel lightened, then get the whole lot balanced. Have the block sonic tested and re-bored to 80mm, replacing your 4K pistons with 5K flat-tops. While that's is away, get the cam & followers ground. Wade, Tighe, Crow... any of them. Buy side-draughts, either SUs or Weber, and port the manifold to the head, then get the head skimmed for compression. Re-assemble with extractors and a free-flow exhaust. Take a look through here. I wasn't after turbo'dV6 power... but it all works well! http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/

Chat to your local TAFE and see if they will take it on as a class project. I've had stuff done like that before.

Probably the rear part of the gearbox is too short, so the gearlever comes up too close to the front of the hole. The Ke70 has a long output casing. That means driveshaft will be different too. All you can do is measure it or take a photo of the gearbox & stick it up. Gearbox internals are the same.