B.L.Z.BUB

Found some 20V primaries and secondaries for sale. Will whack those on with a new exhaust as the Magnaflow is too loud. Kinda over cars at the moment. Dunno if it's the cold weather or getting old but I just cbf .

I have a no name cheapie. It doesnt quite line up properly but I just go a few past and try and be consistent. I heard the ALDI ones are actually really good for a cheap one. Only like $25. All the gear is looking great. I really wanna go carbs but am unsure of the noise vs performance. Maybe 20V

There are also cheaper options. I used one of these, http://www.ogiptech.com/product.html The only issue I had was the clutch slave needed to be spaced out about 10mm. Its not pretty like the niteparts but it worked perfectly fine for me. I didnt need any spacers, used a stock W55 throwout carrier, and a 4AGZE clutch. (W55)

Dude dropped off the radar hard. And I fully understand why.

The bearing will be a bitch to replace as they freeze the bearing and heat the plate so it kinda gets wedged in there pretty good.

If you have a T50 to fit a KE20 drive shaft it may work in your favour.

They have different output spline counts from memory. EDIT: but pretty sure the bells should swap over

Are the T40/50 the same.

I use one of these http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=190998540483&alt=web

Had a bit of scraping in the rear. Was gonna buy some camber plates then was informed the rear hubs have camber adjustment. JDM as.

Topic moved to 'General Mechanical'. Forum support is for website issues. :y:

When I did my fibreglass bog repair around the fuel flap I got some gaffer tape and taped the hole up from inside the boot. That gave me a recessed backing to shape it too. Then a skim of plastic bog. Then I removed Tue tape and put a thin skim of the fibreglass big over the inside. A lot stronger than just filling it with plastic bog.

There will be a build plate on the firewall with all the info you need.

Agree. I wonder if one of these could fit on the Mr2

Do it a few times, then remove all the Shit you don't need and it gets pretty quick.

Wait, it hasn't always meant that ?

It's stronger to patch holes, then skim over the top with plastic bog to make it look good.

Use fibreglass bog. I've done a few repairs with it and it lasts ages. If you prep it right and do it properly.

Autotecnica seats bolt straight to ke rails but you won't get that jdm street cred

I think I need a block sensor.

I only just stopped my oil leaks. They weren't huge but it doesn't smell of burning oil any more (dizzy leak). Which reminds me I need to do a filter and oil change.

Bastard of a job but at least it'll all be sweet.

On a normal engine I'd agree and it was the same in the KE70. But the coolant pipes run from the rear to the front of the car and which 'low spot' do I use? I'm thinking engine out pre-thermostat.

I'm worried about it leaking and getting airlocked and boiling which is the issue with AW11's. If its not bled properly you can cook it pretty quick (like when I bought it). A small coolant leak over time can airlock the system suddenly so I'm looking for a fast spike. Theres is a lot of cooling pipes. It takes over 10L of coolant. That block alarm would also be a good addition but my water alarm was only $12. But I'm guessing a block alarm is better for catastrophic cooling system failure.

I had one in my KE70 controlling the engine fans. I just don't want a repeat of the head gasket incident. Plus real time temp readings are good. I just don't know wheres the best place in the system to put the sensor.