Taz_Rx

Just got booked in for dyno tuning next Friday!!! :P

:yes: Do you have any idea how much a 10a would cost him!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they may be the smallest engine, but they're also the oldest, slowest AND MOST FUGGIN EXPENSIVE!! plus there's other draw back to them like 5-6mm apex seals (new motors have 2-3mm apex seals) and twin dizzies :D most cost effective option is a gen 1 (series 1,2,3) rx7 12a. Oh and Fayt, who built your engines? Bushy?

yeah the permaseal ones are the way to go. thats what I use now because I was burning out the 2 piece stock ACL ones. the permaseals are 1 piece and I get them from Bursons for like $9 (cheaper than an ACL one anyway!!!!) We actually found them listed as extractor gaskets in the lukey catelogue. ;)

Yeah I wanna do a rebuild in 6 months or so and then go EFI. Do you still have that 4k head?? Cause I like to add that as part of the rebuild. Consider it sold if you do still have it. :y: Running 5 and 10psi at the moment. ;) What do you mean by the bumometre, talking about ride hieght? if so its nice and rigit, handles like a go-kart, but is still not too harse that I wouldn't want to drive it to hobart! Would highly recommend one of those oil adapter plates. got mine for $80 (with a slight discount) from bursons. They even have a thermostat in them!! :P Also, how are you going with gearboxs?? mine don't last long lately. the one in it currently is real close to death. thats why I'm praying this guy comes through with the K-T bell housing.

thanks josh. could you hear the gear box!!?? ;) Its so farked now, gunna have to do a swap real soon, but hopefully with in a week I might have some rocking horse shit!! (K to T bell housing that is!! :P ) and then I won't destroy a T50. Little birdy told me you wrote off the 70 a few eeks ago!! got any pics of the aftermath?

Do you want your car to be a well set up, well balanced powerful streeter/track car or a bohemath thats only any good for burnouts!? :hmm: In my mind theres no discussion on the options,.....but hey, I've already been bitten by the rotor bug! :P

Well boys and girls,.......its finally going again, and going bloody well. still sorting a couple of little issues today, but apart from that its all good and I'm very happy. as you will notice I have also put the hotwires on her, as they actually have tread!! Next on the list to do over the next few weeks is: Get new bolts and flare tubing for the flares. paint them and fit them properly. Get new steel radiator hoses made. current ones look shite. Good cut and polish Get some new covers for the rear number plate lights. If anybody has some rust free ones let me know. Put some Advan A032R tyres on the westerns. anyway heres some pics I took this morning. Hotties And this was something I did weeks ago, but can only now see the result: before...................... and after................... Might get a vid up soon aswell! :P

They're miles on the odom. not Km. since it only goes to 99,000 aswell I reckon its already be around the clock at least once. whats with the radiator position as well???? :P

Theres a guy in adelaide regarded as "the god of leaf spring" unfortunately I can't remember his name or were he works, but a little research will get you his details. He said that they actually do most leaf resetting for pedders etc in adelaide becasue he does such a good job. I spent half an hour on the phone to him once and he telling me about all of the memory testing they do on their leaf resets. :P

Ok, you want definate answers,...here you go. Don't want to sound like a know it all but I am 100% certain on what I am about to tell you correct. Trust me I have had several different types of fuel systems in both of my cars. Firstly, a small down draft weber needle and seat will actually hold up to 15-16psi psi!!!!...........so the pump is NOT getting too much pressure. as robert said, a stock 4k pumps makes around 4psi So with those 2 above statements,.......if the needle and seat is not holding the pressure, it does need replacing. The ideal fuel pressure for a carby like that is around 7psi. The needle and seats in small downdrafts are the same thread and therefor interchangable. so any fiat, alfa, corty, falcon, etc needle and seat will be suitable. I actually have a Falcon 4.1lt needle and seat in my Fiat 1.3lt weber as an upgrade. and, if its leaking out of the gaskets,......pure and simply the carby needs a re-kit. I would recommend buying a fuel pressure guage for under the bonnet, they prove very hand. I have a pic of my speco one in my projects thread, they cost $15 from Burson. If you do decide to upgrade the pump to an electric after market one then I would highly recommend a Carter for the reasons mentioned above - Low pressure, high volume, self priming etc. heres a list of available Carters. Model number, flow, psi, and RRP. 60430: 30GPH, 4-6psi, Universal Inline Gerotor type - $86 4070: 72GPH, 4-6psi, Competition Series 72 GPH - $152 (Carter green) 4594: 72GPH, 6-8psi, Competition Series 72 GPH - $166 4600HP: 100GPH, 6-8psi, Competition Series SILVER pump - $151 4601HP: 100GPH, 14-16psi, Competition Series BLACK pump - $188 so as mentioned the 4070 (commonly reffered to as a carter "green") is the one for you. and because of its pressure range and the tolerance your needle and seat should have you don't actually have to run a regulator. so the statement of "no matter what you do, you're going to need a regulator" is absolutley false!!!! I actually used to run the Carter black (14-16psi) on my weber with NO REG AT ALL and the weber still held the pressure. Think thats about it. If you have any more q's, just ask. :P

I'm stuggling to keep up to you now Matt!!! :P Gotta make mine look a bit prettier! :hmm: You have inspired me a bit more with your recent numbers, planning a rebuilt with some forgies or some of the 1G pistons and rod I have laying around in the next 6 months or so, will PM soon about that 4k head if you still have it??? also looking at injecting it soon, which the fuel system is almost set up for. all I need to do is go for an EFI reg and take the ballast resistor of the power for the VL pump and it done! :yes: Did all the wiring on the engine last night and changed the spiggot bearing (that wasd fun! :bash: ) so the plan for today is knock off in an hour or so, and go home and drop the engine in, so all going to plan, the new car should be running tonight!! :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance:

Hey nick, when I changed my cam cost me about $25 for a new chain, timing cover gasket set and a timing cover oil seal. Then all its going to cost you is a few hours of your time. I can also give you some advice to save you time: there is 4 studs with nuts that through the sump into the timing cover, remove the nuts and then double nut these to take the studs out, then when you put it back on, get some little bolts to replace the studs/nuts. this will save you heaps of time and fustration trying to get the timing cover off and back on again. Replacing the chain itself it pretty easy. just make sure you don't move anything around and put it back how it was. Oh, and for anybody who doesn't know, the way you tell if your chain is stuff or not is to hold it out horizontally, if it droops heaps and makes a big curve its buggered, or if it stands out straight then it must be pretty new. same concept applies with any chain- pushies etc. :)

I'm not upset :D ,......but a mod probably will be :yak: , and probably lock the thread :) .

:) Fuel filters for any car, carby/efi, petrol or diesel should be between the tank and the first pump, that way even the pumps get clean fuel. to elaborate on your picture a bit: The blue one as mentioned is the fuel in from the fuel pump. on the other end, the bit bolted to the fuel line is actually your fuel pressure regulator. the small line coming off it in the yellow circle is the vacuum reference and needs to be put onto a post-butterfly vacuum source. The pink circle is for the return line as mentioned, you deffinately have to have a return line on it otherwise pressure will build up too high in the fuel rail. the regulator will reg this to a designated pressure and divert extra fuel back to the tank.

see up the top of the page that little tab that says FAQ............... :) $650 for all the 7ke stuff doesn't sound too bad!! :D you don't HAVE to have the elec dizzy, if you got all that 7k stuff you can just use your stock dizzy with it. Extractors can still be purchased new, or with a bit more SEARCHING you would find a copy of sets second hand on here. :yak:

ok guys, thought it was about time for an update. Been working on the engine a little bit lately. Have roughly polished the tappet cover, thermostat housing, and timing cover. Engine has had a general clean. Engine mounts, gearbox brackets, water pump, lower half of the thermostat housing and alt bracket have been painted. Made a cover up for the old fuel pump hole. Sump is off and being swapped for another one so I can do a good job of my oil return this time, also putting an oil temp sensor in it. heres some piccies: Gaggle of oil fittings!! I got me an oil filter sandwich plate that screws on below the filter to run an oil cooler. even has a thermostat in it! Took these this morning. As you can see a couple of weeks ago I wrapped all of the exhaust piping, also did the dump pipe/exhaust back to the flange under the passenger seat. almost done and looking good.

make sure you make up a skid plate to put under the diff centre!!!! :) .......only time a fixed axle would be an advantage!!! :yak:

:) I think all I want (or need) in the rolla now is: some sort of fuel level indication EFI and a blue bottle in the boot!! :yak: :D

Ahh, my 2 loves (with wheels) rolled into one, gotta love that shite. :lolcry:

Theres one of those on the north east coast of tassie with a tt 1G in it!! :lolcry:

or just go blow through, you can run a cooler then too. I can give you some info on this. :lolcry:

why does that commonwhore have a FMIC!!?? :lolcry:

"Modgies" = Modular, ie 2 or 3 piece and bolted together. the jelleybeans/westerns/mad dish etc etc are all cast alloy. :jamie:

they're not modgies......these are. poor quality pics, but you get the idea.

nikki / asian.....same shite, different stamp! :jamie: Yeah I thought the venturis would be removable, but what about the chokes?? would imagine that the 5k ones would be a bit bigger!