ke70dave

yeah its probably fairly safe to say the bits of gear are in your sump somewhere.... The oil strainer should have kept most of them out of your engine.

Paint is too good to be my old one:P find out how much it weighs, and how much you would get at scrap metal yard. Ill give him half of that.

The ae86 and ke70 front piston diameter are very close if not the same.

Past exams man past exams! and if they still give out that workbook, i recall they used to just change a few numbers of a couple of examples in there..... I think i got 52% on that course. (so perhaps ignore everything above)

1500bucks hey, and you already have ae86 stuff. you want to make sure that your ae86 struts (persumably stock shock length still?) has the proper amount of travel at the height you want run. you want just as much bump travel as you have rebound travel, if your car is as low as it sounds, i assume you currnetly have bugger all bump travel, and loads of rebound travel. This is no good! (can you take a photo of your front strut with the car on the ground to show where the shock is sitting in its stroke?) So you need to design it in such a way that at static height (car not moving, but on its wheels) the suspension sits about the middle of the shock absorber stroke. Once you have figured that out, i reckon you spend your cash like this 4 new shocks - KYB excel G are around $500 a set 4 new springs - id go 5kg Front and 3kg Rear if you want it a bit spirited, or 4kg and 3kg if you want it a bit softer. last time i got 2 springs custom made through repco, it was around $200 a pair. see what you can find second hand. so we're up to a potential of about 500 for shocks+ 400 for springs (unless you find some 2nd hand) - ~900 So 600 to play with. what size wheels do you have? if they are something reasonable sized, get 4 new tyres. 4 NEW tyres, something decent like a bridgestone RE002 or a Federal 595 RSR and a wheel alignment. Then with any cash left over, an adjustable panhard rod, and a full set of bushes, a set of QFM brake pads and some new brake fluid. (install bushes and panhard rod before wheel alignment tyres)

oh my that brings back some aweful memories. Are you at UQ? That sounds awefully like math2000 or Math2010....

Did the mechanic hear the knock first hand? Or was it you just telling him about it?

How does the 4afc go with all those mods? you don't hear of many people playing around with the 4afc, i bet it goes alright though! I think you need to decide if you are going to go boost or not. There is nothing more fun than high compression + boost, not too high but 9.5:1 would make for some fun. But if you decide to keep it N/A, your going to need higher compression and a big cam to get the 4age power, but you may find it a dog to drive on the street.... Theres nothing wrong with playing around like this, even though the 4age is probably the better economical option, you just have to make sure that any mods you do are cheap so you don't start overcapitilising on a 4afc! If you start paying 1000's of dollars for camshafts and head work, then its a bit of a waste of money i think. But negating costs It would be a fun project though! Considered scrapping the carby and getting the 4afe efi system on there?

Any parts shop mate, repco, bursons etc.

You will know if its gear oil, its an aweful smell. Sounds like rear main then.

The ignitors do get hot under normal operation, they have some chunky power transistors in them as far as i understand. The distributer should have a little heatsheild under them which would help keep the heat out of it from the extractors, you can see it in this photo (this has no distributer cap on) http://m5.i.pbase.com/u14/aw11mr2/large/38687485.PICT0174.jpg I would also hook up your check engine light and see if any codes are being thrown up, if there is a drama with the distributer signal there is a code for it, the ECU knows what signal it is misses based on what it "thinks" it should be getting.

Ahh i thought you would be sitting at your computer 24/7 awaiting PM's so you can reply immediatly? I think this thread is more of a Warning to members for who to not sell too...

If in doubt, rev it out! Did you buy petrol with ethanol in it? Ethanol smells er.....interesting....when its burnt.

since when was 2-3 weeks = 10 days? 10days = 1 week 3 days.

So it was a kamai lip? That would be a pain in the Ass to package and send

Why are we putting in ke70 struts again?

I think the same rack boot suits just about any 80s toyota. i think there is a difference between power steering and manual (powersteering has a bit less throw?) there a listing for an ae71, that would have to be identicle to the ke70.

I think the theory is that if you install the camber plates, you wont be able to lean over the strut much before the spring (oem being ~150mm OD) hits the inside of the strut tower. And "coilover" springs usually being around ~60mm of OD there is plenty of room to lean over the strut. if the strut is around 500mm long (not sure on this...), then to get 1 degree change you need to mvoe the strut over by abotu 9mm. you might get that with the standard springs before it hits the inside of the strut tower..

oh yeah, when you look at how much it costs to retro fit its not worth it. But if you ignore that its pretty damn cool :P

Well the worst thing is you are losing oil and making a mess of the concrete. I wouldn't put it in the urgent category, but the sooner the better.

I have been doing some research on this cross plane crankshaft, and its alot cooler than i originally thought.... http://www.ashonbikes.com/cross-plane_crank Howeever it seems you would also need a custom made camshaft to get the valves to open at the same time, how much does that cost?

yeah gotta take the gearbox out, flywheel and clutch off. The rear main seal sits around the crankshaft and seals against crank case. i dunno what engine this is, but the 4k will look pretty simliar http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads18/Rear+Main+seal+depth+just+below+bevel+marked+in+red+Photo+credit+Tyro+Rennlist1299935335.jpg The thing in the middle with all the bolt holes is the crank shaft (bolt holes are flywheel bolt holes). and the rubber thing around the edge is the seal you replace. howeever, be VERY carecful you do not scratch the crankshaft surface, or the block surface, or you will never get it to seal. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/26273-how-to-remove-front-and-rear-main-seals-on-4k/ if you don't have an engine manual, get one! they are really good for stuff like this.

Either the engine rear main seal, or the gearbox input shaft seal. Probably the engine rear main though.

How did it go before the "vacuum delete" ? I'd start by giving it a good cleanout with some of that carby cleaner. spray it into the carby and clean it all, then fire up the engine (it will be VERY hard to start), then once the engine is going go to town with the carby cleaner with the engine running, you will have to keep the engine going with the throttle as the carby cleaner tends to kill the engine. Its unlikely this will solve your issue (unless the idle jet is blocked with dirt?), but it will clean the thing thats for sure.

You poor P platers get such a raw deal with mod plates! What do you want camber for anyway? looks? or you trying to tune the suspension/tyres ? if so what else have you done with the suspension?