ke70dave

In regards to the shifter bush thing. http://www.ajps.com.au/parts/shifter_rebuild_kit_t50.php This rebuild kit worked wonders in my old t50. Made the 25yr old gbox feel new again.

But the engine itself doesnt care weather its in FWD or RWD. The differences that you might be feeling is the different drivetrain configurations. The engine just spins in its own little world. I think your over thinking it. if you arent using a clutch fan any pump will do.

Higher pressure load?

How is your seats? nothing made the biggest difference to my ke70 than a recaro bucket seat. Comfort levels went up 10 fold.

I really like the look of the ae92 GTI, but you don't see many good ones around anymore.

yeah I bought a cheap one from repco about 5yrs ago. It just won't die. Keep them out of the rain though, rain kills them real fast. Though it doesn't go that low so I had to drive my ke70 onto thin wood to get the jack under. Agreed with steel over alloy, alloy doesn't bend.....

I guess the firsrt question is what sort of budget are you looking at.

you can set something up to a latching relay as well, inline with the ignition. That way you just have to touch it with the magnet and it stays on untill you turn off the ignition.

haha been there done that. i bought some quite expensive spray paint ($36 for primer and paint), couldng get the damn cap off the black paint, so i got fed up and hit it on the edge of my bench. Snapped the nozzle off right at the top of the can. I still have it i have used a screw driver to get some paint out, then painted it on with a small brush. Man I'm cheap.

I convinced both sides of family to give me cash for bday to go towards a TIG welder! (inverter mmaw as well) Now to get me some argon!

Ive only bought them at option 1 garage in Brisbane, for 195/50R15 it was around $140 fitted about 3yrs ago. (under $300 a pair) for 205/50R16 it was around $155 fitted about 9 months ago. (just over $600 a set) $180 is a bit of a ripoff i think. perhaps email option 1 garage to get a more up to date price. http://www.option1garage.com.au/NewTyres.htm

Congrats mate!

I woudlnt go as far as swapping out the booster just to change the vacuum port. Theres gotta be an easy 90deg thing you can buy as altezzaclub suggets. Or even a different brake fluid resevoir that allows a bit more room.

I have those federal 595-RSR on my wrx, i find them great, and for the price they are hard to beat. Tyre companies will specify for each of their tyres and tyre sizes the minimum and maximum accepted width, as well as a recomended width. so check these on each tyres website and if you are within the limits, then you're all good in terms of fitting the tyre to the wheel. As for then fitting the tyre and wheel onto the car, well thats another story.

Theres some photos in here. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/28073-stronger-4k-block/ I thought you were telling stories as i had never heard of this ribbed block (thought you might have been confused with the 4age blocks), but apparnetly you arent telling stories,. Bigger question is, anyone seen a non ribbed one fail?

So over the last week or so i have been playing with exhaust for the drover. I have never made an exhaust before, so i thought although i could just pay someone to do it, id give it a go as a bit of an academic exercise..... Using the wonderful welding method that is, gasless MIG. great fun on thin steel Started with a set of 4-1 extractors i got for $40 off the forums, then i went to the wreckers and got 2 old exhausts of mitsubishi magnas for $33, which included the 2 mufflers you see and most of that pipe. I also bought some pipe from the exhaust shop, which i didnt end up using alot.... Unfortunately i only had an angle grinder to cut up the pipe, so getting a perfetly flat cut was difficult, and made a few gaps in my joins. if i did it again id buy a drop saw. I took these photos this morning, ill give it a quick paint, then fit it and weld on the hangers on the weekend. Its pretty dodgy, but ill be intersted to see how it goes, the welds are certainly strong just not that pretty.

9.4:1 and a forced indution is an absoluate hoot to drive. But you gotta have a good tune to make sure you don't blow anything up.

persumably when you say coilvoer kit, you are refering to a few parts that you can modify a standard shock tube into a adjustable height coilvoer type arrangement. Essentially all a coilover kit is, is a bit of threaded pipe, a spring, a threaded spring seat, a locking nut for the spring seat, a spring top with a cone looking fitting for the shock shaft to poke through, which you then attach to a camber plate or oem top hat. And then it requires welding and cutting to fit it to your shock tube. So all you really need for any coilvoer kit to work, is the threaded bit of pipe fits nice and snugly over the oem toyota shock tube. Given that i had ae92 shocks in my old ae86 shock tubes, then id take a pretty good guess that an ae86 kit will do you fine. But just check the OD of the ae92 shock tube and ask a supplier to confirm their kit suits that OD.

Tomorrow I'm going to install some 4-1 extractors on my little suzuki 1.3L and just weld it up to the biggest muffler i can find at the wreckers. So ill tell you if it makes any difference. I suspect it will make no difference, appart from looking cool in my engine bay:D (and for $40 + welding wire, thats good enough for me!)

Stroker kit? They make those for K motors?

how about some cool jazz for a friday morning https://www.youtube....h?v=jeWS1BrAUHU https://www.youtube....h?v=7myggj1e9YQ

More info required! as bubbles sais, there is nothing OEM on a 4age that should beep. Given it changes when you play with the clutch, perhaps its more of a squeek.....In which case it could be any rotating thing... But since your clutch makes the noise change, perhaps it is your clutch throw out bearing.

So your wheel is going along the road, and you hit say a 10mm bump (a cats eye) at 70km/h. the wheel needs to move 10mm over say 0.02 seconds in order to absorb this input. It is the shock absorber that transfers this force through to the body of the car, not the spring. The spring doesnt care too much, 10mm is hardly any movement for a spring to move. At 6kg/mmm spring, thats about 60kg of force needed to compress the spring, in a 900kg car, thats not much force from the vehicle moving at say ~70km/h hitting the above bump. obviously make the spring stiffer and stiffer, and sure you will feel it. But in terms of controlling the wheel as it bumps up, then rebounds out, and not transfering any of this force to the body of the car (and the ocupants). so the body i reckon that is 90% shock absorber, that has been correctly chosen correctly for the spring rate. I think...maybe...that just my experience with about 10 different springs/shocks in my ke70! One of these days I'm going to read books about this stuff. One day.

you remember my car yeah? My car was 120mm at the chassis rails, not quite as low as that red one, but pretty low. Ii had about 100mm of rebound travel, and around 130mm of bump travel. (going on memories of 3yrs ago) My front shocks were out of the rear of an SW20 MR2 in shortened shock tubes, and my wheels and tyres were such that i was able to utilise the whole suspension travel without them hitting anything, and i was using 5.9kg/mm springs in the front, and maybe 2-3kg/mm in back. which was a little high but not bad, if i did it again i might try 3.5-4kg/mm in front, and 2kg/mm in the back perhaps. It handled great, and for an 80s corolla with "performance" orientated suspension, it reckoned it was quite comfortable. it was no mercedes benz, but i drove it daily with no dramas. In my opinion and limited experience it is the shock absorber that dictates the ride comfort.

There is no reason why a car that low (the red one), shoudlnt handle well. but in order to get it that low you have to do a fair bit of work. That red car has a nice arsenal of suspension bits last time i heard anything about it (like 3yrs ago....). Certainly better than the majority of ke70s on the forums (cut springs and wide wheels)