LittleRedSpirit

Ill be watching this one. ;)

Trav: Hey, the way I see it, its your first car. The mods you've done, while not particularly tasteful (from a retro classics POV) or performance enhancing (from a racers point of view), reflect the amount of love a young person has for their first car. There's a tonne of enthisiasm and love for this car going on. Once Trav learns more about a cars mechanical side I'm sure he will refocus his efforts into more positive and practical areas, to enhance the driving experience for the driver. We're all here to learn, and every day is a school day, how quickly we forget that sometimes (me included). The KE has been modified with lots of positive energy on a low budget. Kudos for doing the best with what you have. My personal opinion, well I think the bonnet scoop was a mistake, as was the kit and painting the console and dash bright shiny colours. Those mods just scream Rice, as in Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancements. They seem to hint that you want the ke70 to be something different. I say, throw the rice away and let the car be a ke70. It is what it is, old. If you don't appreciate the retro styling or agility of the ke, maybe you should think about getting a later, bigger, newer car asap. I guess I'm just philosophically different to most young people these days. I'm not into stereos or bling, or looking faster than I am, I prefer to look much slower, the looks on peoples faces are better that way. I only tend to make a change to a cars appearance if I have to. All the best, if your happy thats all that matters. :)

Hey Jon how goes it? There is a KE30 2 door sedan! in my street these days. Looks completely original in that light beigey green colour.

If your using a vl high pressure pump then logic suggests you use the same lift pump the vl uses.

A topic covered a mere 2 million times before. Ive organised a treasure hunt. The information you require is contained within several threads on the site. Now its up to you to find it. Basic options are as follows, JDM AE86 (costs a packet approx $1200-1500, has 2 axle sizes, mostly have disc brakes or small drums) Celica (bit wider, mounts a bit off but will work, big drum brakes, cheap, around $300) T18 (Bad ratios for atmo motors like 3.7 and 3.9 mostly and all have drum brakes, costs around $400). There are finer points to all of these. You will need a matching tailshaft for all of these, and an sv11 handbrake centre cable to make the jdm ae86 handbrake work. If you wanna know more then Id suggest read some people rides threads or try some more specific questons. Merry Christmas.

There is a place at Sumner Park, Brisbane that will make/hybrid steel wheels to any width and offset for a flat fee. Sure they arent any shiny bling mags but you can get any width and offset for around 200 a corner. Thats gotta be the cheapest way to get 15x10s Ive ever heard of. I think the place is called racecar engineering.

I think you just said what I said in far more educated terms. Well done. :bash:

Send them back and get a full refund. They are known to snap under some abuse anyhow. Instead, get some steel ae86 struts and make coilovers out of them. It will be cheaper and it will be so much better and stronger, plus you can choose everything yourself, dampers, springs, cambertops, and get all the best gear for probably the same money. Just cause it says race on the box doesn't mean they are worthy. Sorry if I come accross rude, just trying to help you get the better setup.

Get some real springs which fit the spring perches. Just to be safe. Start with the bushes. Work your way through the basics. Tie rod ends and balljoints still ok? No damage to fix? If your gonna get decent dampers get something adjustable to start off with. You wont regret it when your tuning it. Have a read through some project threads. See what works for people. Do some googling about the principles that make a front engine RWD Live axle car with a 4 link rear end handle. Work out how you want to change the suspension setup and why. Then get what you need. What everyone does isnt always the best thing, often just the best thing for the money or time input.

I'm sure Toyota know what they are doing. The sky is falling, the sky is falling.

This is how Toyota did it on the factory lightened 4age flywheels. It might be of interest to you.

Its a sexy chassis. Unfortunately its got a 3ac, A series K box and I dunno what diff but it wont be flash behind that powerhouse. Looks straight as though doesnt it...

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...st&p=298054 :dance:

Its a pretty cool looking abomination for sure. I like the early BMWs and the early Corollas, not sure if a hybrid was a good idea. Looks like its got air con. That would be nice right about now.

I have my lights triggered by the ecu. Gotta love Adaptronic. They would work without the Gauges screen in the car, but youd need an Adaptronic ECU. I believe if you run carbs you just need one triggered by a Tacho or the coil.

I agree they are valid. Its easier to use your peripheral vision to know when to change, than to ogle a gauge for a reading. I often turn my digital gauges off at night and just shift by the lights. Ive got one that comes on just before peak and another that comes on when the power stops increasing and you really need to shift, now. The first is orange, the second is red. Mine are flush installed lights from repco, not big phallic aftermarket dildo things with glowing ends.

Just use a 20valve.

Sounds like grounds. Go to repco and get a new ground terminal and some fat cable. Run a new wire from the positive terminal to the starter. Run a ground from the engine block near the starter to the spot where the battery grounds on the body. Make sure you clean all the threads and sand back to bare metal wherever you do up a ground. Sounds like its just down on voltage a bit and this should fix it.

The most flattering light for a car that straight and shiny will be overcast light. This kind of light, it makes shiny stuff look amazing. I mean my car isnt that shiny but it looks it here.

Ill bring my dip photog over and give you a hand.

Careful you don't turn you car into an oxy welder.

I prefer to do motor with box. Depends what exactly you need to do. I can't stand doing bellhousing bolts in the car.

No need for responses like this. Explain yourself, if you have to resort to attacking people you have long run out of valid things to say.

Solid Gold. Pros: Neons on the hubs will set them off. Perceived cool ricey look. Girls may like them. Match with unnecessary bonnet scoops and side skirts for that I have money and no sense look. Will fit in with the non-performance mod crowd. Were talking doof doof autosalon people who spend their money on white leather and suede. Be good to go lapping and seek heaps of attention, if that's what your building the car for. Cons: Illegal if bigger than 15 inch Ugly, IMO. Poor Offset choices. No Tyre there to protect said exxy rims. Expensive as funk tyres. Not period correct in the slightest. Most Plated wheels are far from true and can be hard to balance. Trust me I had plated wheels on my ute and they were very fussy to balance. Bigger rolling diameters make a slow car slower. Reckon the 4k will turn 20s with any viggour? Every person who has built there car around performance will know youre a tool. Up to you. Personally, there is a lot of joy to be had making a car faster, sharper steering and quicker to stop. Nobody cares what you look like when youre just a blur.

I'm in, the car isnt clean but I'm coming for the drive