coln72

Or use the Ke20 bolts and position the backing plate so it won't rotate when you hit the brakes going forward and do the bolts up TIGHT. Before I get angry responses, this was done to a competition car and never caused any problems over a number of years service :)

Another option is to run twin bars on the front. Was given a kit (supposed to fit a Mazda) that mounted another bar under the original. Worked well, and was semi adjustable depending on where the brackets mounted.

Just personal opinion, but I have always felt that the rear on the KE20/30 series was too stiff in the rear. My KE35 would single spin to a stand still (felt like it anyway) on slow corners and would spin up the inside wheel up Arthur's Seat.

70's Escort rally cars ran single leaf rear springs. Made up a two leaf pack for my KE20.

I was running a locker on my KE20 and I had most of the above. Std front roll bar, modded cross member for camber, softer rear springs to allow the back to roll and squat and running toe out. Seemed to corner ok - but spent most of my time on dirt :)

Single carbs had a larger venturies and bigger jets than the proper 3kb carbs.

Wade 169, 3kb manifold, 2 x standard carbs (bigger venturies) would go wind off the tachometer.

Nothing new there :P

Bolted up a pair of "single" carbs to my 3KB manifold if you know what I mean. Did this to both of the 5k's I have had in the past and felt it worked well.

Sounds like my old KE35 :) Used a Wade 169 grind in my old 5k. it was a motorkhana/autocross car so I felt I could of gone bigger

Having a guy give his xr8 a bootful out of the front of work and loosing it, sliding it into a brand new car :( what made me happy was one of the top cops in town standing in the showroom watching :) and listening to the tools excuses......

5mm seems a shit load to remove. That rib must of been that thick for a reason.

Mmmm 11 possibilities for ke20/25, te20/25 tail lights :(

I'll still check for you after work - you never know

have old parts manuals for KE20's somewhere at home - might be able to find what you need.......maybe

Thought ke55 discs were slightly different to the early ones. Always used everything as a matching set to prevent any issues. Anyway, it's only 4bolts holding the caliper mounts on.

Think you need the calipers, the matching discs and the caliper mounts. That's what I used anyway.

original jap spec calipers had a dirty big stiffening rib that used to hit the the rims. Aussie delivered cars had a different caliper from memory. Mentioned KE70 as I ended up running them as I had them on a wreck already. Thought spaces were illegal......

Had to look around for wheels to clear the calipers on my '75 KE35 back in the day. Using later model calipers (ended up with KE70 calipers and discs) should give more clearance. Ended up with 225/60r13's on the back of mine with the lips rolled and about 30mm of suspension travel. Had no issues with scrubbing.

I hear you. Remember that as well. My old twin carbed 5K would return around 9-10 L/100km

Never did on a 20 either.

Have seen remote boosters used. VH40 springs to mind-but don't know if they are still available

Late 90's Festiva. 1.5l motors available, relatively simple for basic stuff (just don't ask about water pumps) pretty reliable - had two and have had no problems.

just carry around a can of degreaser. Instant leak fix :P used to do this to the club car to hid the fuel seeping from the accelerator pumps before scrutineering......

Or you could dig up a 5k and enjoy all the extra torque ;)