SLO-030

Anyone know of the car off any other forum? He's gotta be on DC or somethin'

Weird, All the ones I pulled out my 38's were all the same.

I really hope this dropkick is on RC. Purely so he can see many people are noticing his driving. :glare:

Edited :lolcry:

Go Toy_Yoda!

and THAT, is why Carlos keeps a few spare harnesses in the boot :wink:

Run some diesel thru the oil system, should clean it out :)

Rollcages. Bitches love Rollcages.

Possibly be able to sort out someone or a courier in melb to pick up. But I realised it wasnt for the larger 2 piece duck bills, If they are able to get the larger ones, I would definatly be keen.

PM me with movements on the happenings to this prick. Thanks for the entertaining read guys!

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Good to see you sorted it out Chris. don't wanna put you down or anything, but seeing the extent you went with the other body work. The flares seem a bit agricultural? Something like this maybe? Either way, gets the job done :yes:

f@$k me! That's a bloody steal at that price!

Like takeing a stoved in KE38, cutting the guard and crumpled metal out with a trusty 4" grinder, pulling the top rail out with a length of RHS, Welding in a new inner guard section. Replace panels and re prime. Then continue to daily for a few months with 2deg of neg camber and -4 deg caster. Only cost me $55 and the single most expensive part was the fender indicator!

I'd Get it all tig'd together. Shouldnt have an issue. or have the hole filled and re drilled using your mount plates and then have them welded in for extra security. Even if you just get the plates tig'd in, once its all tight you shouldnt have an issue.

Bloke I met had a KE30 on the dyno and they had to buy mulitple tach's to verify it was actually spinning over 10,000rpm

Has it been jetted to suit your application? Correctly tuning a carb WILL make a world of difference. We got a 32/36 running fine on a stock 3K. Not that much work.

Aint nothing changed in the last 40 years... Then Now. And never piss off your painter. He may just leave a little note for when you rip off your rear bar..

Longer control arms wont tuck the top of the tyre in. It would work if the top pivot point was below the top of the tyre. But as the top pivot is a fair bit higher, all it will end up doing is pushing it further out.

The extractors that I source do come with a 1.75" outlet.. I've modded the extractors to 2", 2" hotdog under the passenger seat, then 2" all the way back to a Redback 2" straight thru muffler. Sounds good and none too noisy. I also used a tri-chamber muffler on the rear, also sounded good. Pretty quiet. Also on my KE30 I had extractors and 2" all the way back to a 2" straight thru muffler. That was WAY too loud. Never again. :bash: The KE30 was a stock 4K with a 3K head and stock carby. Just go 2" with a hotdog resi under the front seats, and a tri chamber at the rear. Will be good, and you can always go to a straight thru if you want more noise.

As long as you use the rails of the car the seat is going into, I know KE2x/3x/55 ans 70/71 as well as XT130 Use the same bolt spacings for afixing the seat to the rails. This could POSSIBLY work for alot of other toyota bucket seats up to the the mid 80's.

As Trev said, good to see your still keeping it going and soldiering on! Mad props to you Moe!

Check youtube and 3tcgarage.com for your answer :dance:

About. Bloody. Time! :yes:

Welcome Chris! Certainly come to the right place for K engine tech :yes: Enjoy your stay Ryan