Raven

Did you ask permission from the Administrator before you posted this up?

I'm thinking that maybe they were trying to get their cars in the new Transformers flick yeah? :y:

So I had my panel guy come around and take a look at the car. $50 an hour to do it, the front wiper panel between the windscreen and the bonnet will be unstitched and removed to access the rust underneath. The corners will be made from scratch, the engine bay is going to be completely smoothed out for that show look and new sections will have to be made all over the car, predominantly the front and rear of the sill panels will required a heap of attention. The wheel well is even going to be repaired properly too and I'm getting the flares fitted up as well throughout the process. He's going to need the car for 9 months, but can't take it for another 4-6 weeks, so in 3 weeks time I'm going to get the car sandblasted and sodablasted in parts and then the panel work begins, with photo's being taken for the whole process by the guy himself to show exactly how bad it is. Which means I'm going to end up with a heap of photos from the start to finish of the panel work :y:

This is the pic of the TE27 dash cluster. Won't be cheap though! Also doesnt come with the parking light/hazard light switch either as I need that :y:

WASP is another brand you may want to look at as well :y:

I have a spare set of TE27 gauges sitting around doing nothing :) That'd fix your tacho issue :)

Dude, if you need a motor and trans, why don't you ask me? I deal with a shitload of mechanics on a daily basis. I'm sure I could find you something cheap :)

Hmm, not too fond of the whitewalls, but the colour-coding and lowering sets it off nicely :bash:

This is by a private guy who will file finish the panels as well so there will be not one ounce of filler in the car. This will also include fabricating new sections of the sill panels that have the huge rust holes. My theory is, if you're doing a restoration, do it once and do it properly and don't cut corners because if you do, somewhere down the track its going to bite you on the arse and it will cost more in the long run. I plan on keeping this car until I have a son (or daughter) to possibly pass it on to in 20-30 years time :)

If it was running superlites, I know the car you're talking about. He lives south of the city somewhere :) You were "admiring his ride" I gather :bash:

Quick update! I had a customer of mine at work pass on my number to a guy who does metal fab and rust repairs which requires NO filler what-so-ever, call me today. Next weekend I'm getting him out to quote me up on all the repairs that need doing. I'm expecting his quote to be around $4000 to get it to where it needs to be before it even gets a coat of paint. I'll let you all know what he quotes me next weekend!

Looking good :y: Whats the next lot of plans for the pano?

The auto's do have a neutral safety switch that is activated by the ECU, that then allows the car to turn over. I sell parts for these things quite reguarly :y: You'll need some sort of wiring diagram if you're planning on putting one in, otherwise your car is going to be starting when left in any gear, which could prove very dangerous.

And that white KE20 racing car is actually a KE25 Kiahn. :y:

As Luke said, brenton should look after you pretty well. :y:

Haha, pretty sure I didnt wear silk when I got to sit in it :y:

Nah, not heavy enough :y:

Thinking about selling up already Lesley?

Is that 911 going to be in the euro-version of Mad Max or something? 8/

Umm dude, KE55's don't have cat converters 8/

I can't weld for shit haha. The old man is the one who can weld, but he can only arc weld and I wont get a decent weld quality with arc welding, so I'd rather leave it to a professional. 8/

Yeah, which one? I might have to *cough cough* be sick *cough cough* if they're closing down and selling off stock.

Introducing the Obsidian SG-1 Mustang - 800+HP Twin-Supercharged, Stroked 351W to 392ci 8/

The threaded rod is pretty solid. The only reason its on the frame is so I can transport it to get it sandblasted and thats it. Once its done, it then goes to get the rust repairs and paint done and once its back, it comes off the frame and onto the axle stands again. The frame wont tip over, I've moved it around enough to know that its very stable and isnt going to tip onto one side, as the frame follows the outside dimensions of the car, not the width of the chassis rails. 8/

And here are those better pics I was talking about :yes: