altezzaclub

I've never worried about the links in the chain, the main thing is to get the two gear wheels into alignment. You will get TDC on number 1 cyl from the crank key, no matter where the timing mark is, and the mark on the cam wheel will do to make the straight red line in your photo. The rockers on #4 cyl should be about equal as they go past one another, exhaust closing and inlet opening. You can only be a tooth out either way, which is a noticeable amount (about 10deg I'd say) in either the marks on the gears or in the tappets. Turn it all by hand afterwards to make sure the rockers look like they should as they open and close at the right times. If you were keen you'd redrill the cam gear wheel with three new holes a few degrees out from each other so you have a cam timing wheel adjustable in 3deg increments. --------------------- I would think so too. Maybe you could check the other cyls and mark the TDC of #2 and #3 as well.

Dayammm! That's the best one I've heard of in years! The problems change as it moves a bit an you can't see what is wrong...

Its just disgusting stuff to work with- I thought welding and grinding and painting was messy and grubby until we got in fibreglass panels. We made guards, bonnets and boots for the Datsuns years ago.

Ths can't be a problem of fuel starvation when hot?? The pump gets airlocks and can't supply enough. Is it worth pulling the top off the carb and seeing the fuel level next time it happens?? Just switch it off immediately, push the clutch down and coast to a halt so it can't idle. Pull the fuel line off the outside before undoing the carb top so no more fuel can get in as you lift the float. Then compare that level to when its idling. What is it like around town on a hot day?? The only times I remember the Datsuns giving trouble was after a hard run when you idled around town and the fuel would boil, leading to vapour-locks as the pump couldn't pump vapour.

I haven't heard of a range being available, so I assume they are all the same. That would work if all coils are pretty much the same, which is what I reckon they are. So if you have a new condensor in there and it is not a dud, then it won't be that. The Gregorys manual says- ""Using a spring scale pull the timing chain outwards at a point opposite the tensioner pad with a tension of 10kg. Measure the clearance between the rear of the pad and the body. If the clearance between the tensioner pad and the tensioner body exceeds 13.5mm, closely inspect the sprockets for wear. Renew if necessary. Anchor one end of the chain on a nail and using a spring scale apply 5kg to the chain. Measure the doubled over length between anchor points and if this exceeds 272.7mm the chain must be renewed. Measure the thickness of the tensioner pad. If 12mm or less renew the timing chain tensioner as an assembly. Similarly measure the vibration damper and if less than 7mm it should be renewed. Dismantle and inspect the tensioner. Check the spring for lack of tension and the oil holes for blockage."" For the capacitor they specify 0.2-0.24mfd.

Messy, spiky and sharp, poisonous chemicals, poisonous vapours, impossible to clean up afterwards or get off your skin, poisonous sanding dust too.... You sure? Light though......

Yes the foot does stick out of the mounting on the chain tensioner more than I would expect. Noticed it yesterday but didn't comment on it. It will be interesting to see what difference a new chain makes. I would've thought dizzy for that sort of problem too, wear in the dizzy shaft or weight pivots, poor condensor, dirty points, but it seems you've covered that. You don't get a constant degradation of timing on the cam because of the valve springs acting on the lobes. They push the cam backwards as the follower goes up the ramp, then push the cam forwards as the follower goes over the lobe nose and down the other side. So each valve is doing that as it runs, and it affects the dizzy too as that is driven off the cam. That pulsation workng on the slack in the dizzy gears will make the white marker bounce around on a timing light. The problem of a long trip is very interesting.

Y/B is oil pressure switch. Black is tricky, they are used for odd things, but the earths are usually W/B. Apart from dizzy feed/coil, I can't think of a bolt-terminal that wouldn't be an earth. Yellows are the gauge feeds and do reverse light power. As fitted to RA40 Celicas! I doubt they changed much from TA22 to the 40 series..

Are you talking the rubber bit or the steel part that is welded onto the firewall?? Quite a few guys just never bother fitting the steel part when they convert to manual. We used one- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/page__pid__590801#entry590801

I don't think double-rows snap. For the Celica there is a factory method of holding the chain sideways, horizontally, and measuring how much it droops. They give you a limit of wear as a droop distance. Those chains are longer than the 4K, but you might be able to chase that down. Why do you think it might be stretched? I've heard of them rubbing on the timing chain cover until they make a hole in it...

Are you thinking of an intercooler or not? It will be far simpler to blow straight into the motor without the piping, the intercooler and the lag involved. It depends how much boost you want to run. This is pretty simple, but needs that hole in the bonnet- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43819-ke10-blown-5k-peechs/page__hl__%20supercharger__st__45

Rally it! Drifting is too easy... The shell looks pretty bad to think about putting it back on the road, but a 4AGE and an Altezza 6-speed would make it fly!

Only if you have the front studs in the timing cover replaced with bolts. As it came from factory, the vertical studs going down through the sump stopped the timing cover from sliding forwards, so you had to drop the sump

Can you swap the lower control arms for slightly longer ones from another Toyota, like we use Corona LCAs in the KE70? They're about 10mm longer & take out the positive camber to gives a touch of negative camber, about -1/4deg.

Supercharger- instant power right through the range and only comes on if you want it to. Put a switch on the floor under the throttle. Sounds WAAYYY.. better than a turbo, that banshee howl cannot be imitated! Reed's right, but how much time do you spend driving at the top revs of a turbo car, once you get past the lag at all the normal around-town revs.

We didn't get the KP61 sold in Aussie, so NZ is the best chance for the springs. Have you joined kp61.net?? Are KE70 the same diameter? Plenty of those over here.

Look at your $8000 bank account and think.. "Do I really want to empty that out on my KE70??"

..and the problem was???

...and I forgot to ask- is that new coil a low voltage or a 12V. Most coils are designed to run without a ballast resistor, so they need 12V all the time. The ballast resistor won't feed them enough to perform properly. The low voltage coils are designed to run at peak efficiency on 6 or 9 volts. So long as the guy in the spares shop knew what he was doing.

How's that coming along? Make sure the power going into the dizzy is insulated as it goes through the side. If the clips or wires touch the dizzy body they will short out the power straight to earth. Check it with the multimeter. With the points open and the coil -ve wire in your hand you should get an infinite ohms reading, or certainly a very high one. If you turn the motor with a spanner to #1cyl TDC the multimeter will tell you exactly when the points close, and that will give you the ignition timing off the crank pulley. Should be 8-12deg, book says 8 I use a few more. Put a tiny spot of grease on the cam in the dizzy so it lubricates your new point's rubbing block, otherwise they wear away quickly and the points close up.

Sounds right. Did you check the timing after setting them?

Nope. It needs the points to open and close to give a stepped voltage. 12-0-12-0... That collapse of the electrical current induces the high voltage in the coil windings. The condensor magnifies the amount of current coming and going to give a solid burst to the coil and get a good spark.. You will read 12V with a multimeter or it will turn on a test light at either the 12V -ve terminal without the dizzy wire on, or at the 12V +ve red wire going in if you have that off. However you will only see a 12V spark if the points are open and you put a screwdriver across them. That might give you a high-voltage spark as well.

Welcome in! Your English is better than my Dutch, so I'm glad you speak it at all! That's a nice collection of cars. When someone crashes into the back of the AE101 on the race-track you will have a wonderful engine to put in the KP61!

You could- Unplug the small red wire from the blue one that goes to the capacitor. That takes the capacitor out of the circuit in case it is leaking. Have you replaced the condensor in the dizzy?? If that is leaking it won't build up charge and you get a small spark. Take the red coil +ve wire off the coil and put a multimeter on it, earthing the other multimeter lead.. Unplug the starter solenoid so the starter can't work, and check the voltage at the coil when you turn the key onto "start". It should read 12V then as the coil gets full power. Let the key go back to 'ignition' and it should read 9volts. So, if you have 12v and 9v to the coil, a new condensor and the capacitor unplugged, then any small spark problem is probably within the coil, everything else has been eliminated. That's assuming the points are correctly gapped, as a small gap gives the capacitor less time to charge up.

Yeah, red is ignition +ve, and the extra little red wire goes to the capacitor. They join the wire from the ballast on coil +ve. The blue goes to the dizzy from coil -ve, and the black goes on there too if you have a tacho. The white/black one with the plastic terminal on is something else entirely I think, white/black is usually an earth.