altezzaclub

Where do these hoses go?? One goes to the air cleaner, the one that is bleeding oil fumes into your air filter. I expect the other goes to the inlet manifold and will have a PCV valve in the line. That one allows the motor to suck the fumes away and burn them. How much oil is it using??

Take off the aircleaner top and look down the carb. Open the throttle quickly and see if petrol squirts down into the carb.

Probably not, as 5th resides in the extension housing behind the actual gearbox. Take a close look at the extension housing close to the gearbox, see if they look the same and if the K50 doesn't have a larger bulge on one side.. I haven't got photos of that particular area, I didn't worry about it when I had them side-by-side.

Ignition breakdown- take the bonnet of and go for a drive at night. Look for green sparks jumping off the coil or leads. A- Clean the top of the coil and the dizzy cap, (inside and out) wipe the leads and clean the plugs. Spray with CRC 556 or WD40 or similar, then try it. B- Take the plugs out and compare them, look for a pug that is darker or dirtier than the others. If so it might be that plug, that lead or that pole on the dizzy cap. Swap them around and follow it. Make sure they have the correct gap and the points and timing are correct too. C- Check the points and change the condensor. If there are no obvious sparks jumping off the coil or no dirty lines showing tracking on the top, swap the coil and swap the ballast resistor. That will all eliminate the electrical side of misfires. After that comes carb... enough fuel to cruise, but not enough to feed acceleration. See how you go with the electrics first.

Good idea- That would work... You'll have to throw some photos up for us. Are you up for the Blacksmiths Inn rally in August?? 2.5hrs North of Sydney. Last year was brilliant, so if you can get in as a 00 car or a followup you'd love it.

Ask your local exhaust shop. I paid $215 a few weeks back for Hurricanes! Teq they don't add much by themself, you need a few hundred dollars more spent on a sports exhaust all the way through, inch & 3/4 or 2". Then a better carb and a cam grind to put it all together. However the overall package is chalk and cheese to a stock motor setup.

Yep. If you've got a happy LCA angle that will work through the travel your're going to give it, then match the shocks to work with that. The spring perch is easy to change, but shortening the strut will need a new thread cut in it..... although when we discussed that in the woolshed it was a case of slice the strut in the middle and weld a coilover sleeve over the join! We have't needed that yet.

I just cannot see how they can close the bonnet on that AE86! So if we mount the V6 with two cyls behind the engine mount, like a 4K, where will the gear stick end up?? In the Datsun that I moved the motor backwards in, I had the gearlever turned around to face forward and bent it downwards like buses used to have. That was with two cylinders under the firewall, so the V6 won't be that extreme. That way will certainly help to keep the weight rearwards.

Well, the power will certanly overwhelm the weight difference, but when it comes to the actual weight in the nose, my 16yr-old daughter and I lifted the full 4K out of her Corolla with a length of 4x2 and a rope... So probably well under 100kg. This site lists the 4A (as in 4AC) at 225lb, or 100kg, and the Camry alloy V6 at 400lb (178kg) That 80kg extra plus that giant W gearbox will need quite a bit of balancing by the Hilux in the back. Its a shame no-one uses Alfa transaxles with the gearbox as part of the rear axle. http://fixrambler.com/engineweightchart.txt

Hang on.. lemmee check- Nope, need the next photo to measure when he landed! I was Clerk of the Course organising that rally, so I couldn't enter. I'm sure I marked that yump! Notice how the world was black and white back then...

You can be sure you wont keep the handling characteristics, but you should be able to reset them. There will be a lot more weight in the front. What gearbox would be a question? Can you fit the box you need in the tunnel without cutting it larger?? I suppose a Hilux diff would do it, then new brakes and suspension all round. I was looking at a guy's Holden Sunbird at the weekend.... with a Chev V8 in it! Must have had all of 30mm each side to the chassis rails! .....and the water pump fanbelt bolts had neatly notched the electric fans casing at the front!

Ok, is there a screw acting on a quadrant that adjusts choke idle?? It is separate from the warm idle screw that does the main work of idle speed. If you screw up the choke idle speed that may solve it. If you reckon it is flooding, ie- too much choke, then have another go at adjusting the choke mechanism and reduce it's effect. If the carb has been rejetted with larger jets you might need less choke just from that alone. It will always run richer when driving, hot or cold. However, unless they richened the idle jet as well the idle mixture will stay as lean as it was.

You shouldn't Dave- basically you've moved the "rest" position of the car up from the 50% of stroke midpoint to the 80% mark. You still get 100% of the shock travel, 80% is going down so you can hit bumps better, with only 20% going up. That's why you see these pictures of BDA Escorts with a front wheel in the air, there's not much 'up' travel before the wheel lifts off. That doesn't matter anyway, the inside wheel does nothing for traction so it might as well fly. The shock nut takes that weight without a problem, even my Bilstein mod where I cut the tube down because the thread was damaged. On the other hand, our crappy spot-welded spring seat takes the car landing (and rolling) onto the struts without letting go. I noticed he has had the front springs coil-binding this last rally, so although the struts are strong he wil wreck a shock if he keeps hitting things that hard.

yep- keep the same ride from the spring rate, but the car sits higher. You will lose camber as the LCA sits at a steeper angle downwards, so Sigma arms are ideal.

You mean this one?? Out with the radiator then grab a 3mm & an 8mm drill bit, and find the spotwelds that hold it in. Then a fine steel chisel or an old flatblade screwdriver you don't mind destroying to pry the panels apart.. Castor rod fittings off and it should fall in your hand. Panelbeat the tabs straight and weld the new one on. I have a terrible feeling it will want the bumper off and maybe the grille so you can get access enough to swing tools around. There will be a vertical center support brace for the fittings that will need to come off too, and we had the lower front panel, the gravel tray, welded there somewhere too.

Both of those are true, toss the washer out and it is a pain to get to. I understand that too high an oil pressure strips white metal off the bearings, but I don't know what "too high" is in psi. It would be odd if #3 is low on compression from a head gasket problem, but you'll find out when the head is off and the valves are out. You could hook a compressor up to #3 via the spark plug hole and listen for where the air leaks to..... inlet/exhaust via valves, sump via broken ring, water system via head gasket...

It will increase the rate, but that is only with a situation like a car sitting on its suspension. In a fixed length tube like this shortening the spring will relieve the valve of pressure so it bleeds oil out earlier, and only stiffens up later when the spring is getting more compressed. Really it delivers a different spring force curve, less at the bottom end, more at the top. Something to experiment with anyway. Another thing to look at would be to drill the splitpin hole at 90degrees and as close to the end of the housing as possible. That would reduce pressure on the spring. A nice mod would be to cut a thread in there and have the spring base adjustable by winding it in or out. That would allow you to set the max oil pressure you wanted.

You want a softer spring on the oil pump relief valve, the one we normally put a washer under to INCREASE the let-off pressure. Sadly it means pulling the sump off so you can see the system where it bleeds off the pressure over the stock setting. It may have been shimmed already for higher pressure, so you can take that out if it has. Otherwise you either change the spring, make the housing longer, or do something farm-spec like trim the spring a little shorter. You can see it here- http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=525989&ukey_make=1060&ukey_model=15450&ukey_category=21646&ukey_trimLevel=18320

These ones, the 'street' ones.- The urethane stands up to jumps and ditches OK, but the thrust bearing gets beaten to death. Sadly the urethane is molded around the bearing in the factory and you can't replace the bearing by itself, but they've done over a year's rallying and they weren't new when he got the car. $380 the pair, $110 odd each side for new thrust brgs with the urethane part. http://www.k-mac.com...yota/toyota.htm Don't be afraid to lathe the spring perch off the strut and reweld them on higher up. You want the shock to sit normally at about 80% of its extension, so when it lifts 20% more it tops out. That means it has 80% of its travel to go down when it absorbs the weight of the car coming down off a jump, rather than just 50%. If it tops out it doesn't matter, the weight of the strut plus disc & wheel just hangs off it OK. I expect you'll build a low tarmac set of struts and a high gravel set separately and just swap them over for each event. They will have opposite valving, the tarmac has easy down hard up, & the gravel has hard down easy up. We're running Kings Springs on the front, quite randomly, they were on there when he bought it. They're stock height KTFS14, but I don't know what rate they are.

Here- Drawn on for another thread, but those are the jets.

Those are the only parts that actually DO anything aren't they, the igniter is in two parts- a sensor and a computer? So if you replace those two you have fitted new items that do actual spark production and the rest of it all won't affect it. Mine looks like this, just two black boxes.

Those neatly sort out fuel supply and leak problems. If its a problem with the idle circuit it would be unlucky to have it happen with both carbs. What did this involve?? It will tell you what stopped it idling. I assume you have check-tightened all the bolts on the manifold in case leaning on it wasn't enough. You might need to remove the manifolds and check the gasket for breaks I think, seeing both carbs suffer the same problem. You can alter the half-choke idle speed and leave it to just richen the mixture, but that won't solve the problem.

LOL ! Run it richer this time, what the hell if it uses more fuel for a month or two. If it solves the detonation/head gasket problem you know what the trouble is. Do those needles have a series of grooves at the top where you attach them?? If you move the clip down by one groove it richens the mixture right through the range, and if you're on the bottom groove get one cut just below it by someone with a lathe. The O2 display will sort it out, I saw one for very cheap at some Chinese guage website over the weekend. here it is- throw away $20..... get a couple of suitable exhaust sensors from the wrecker and you're away. http://www.ebay.com/...d=290687426338

We're running a dirt-cheap strut top camber/castor plate, I'll look it up later- Some red plastic thing with a thrust bearing. Take the sway bars off and run without them, which is what I did to Steve in the Celcia. If you ever get fast enough to scare yourself with body roll at 140kph, let me know and I'll tell you the next mod... Don't weld the spider gears to the top hat casing in the diff. Fill a tooth gap with weld, then fill the three corresponding ones so they all hit at once. You need some free turn in there to let the car turn in and stop understeer. Springs I reckon should be as soft as possible but enough to stop coil-binding or bottoming out the shock. The Monroes are entirely wrong for gravel of course, they suck the car down into the dirt insterad of keeping the nose high. You can re-valve the stock wet struts yourself if you still have them. Make the holes on the 'compression' (going down) stiffer, and reduce the valving on the 'coming up'. Chat to TRDKE70 about his spring rates, but basically the fronts are just firm enough to land on and the rears are as soft as possible to get maximum squat. We're using 110lb/in rears and can't find anything softer at the wreckers. Make sure you have long soft bump stops, you can buy some lovely progressive ones that ramp up in density towawds the end. Stock old ones are pretty hard, I found some Falcon fronts that I fitted to the rear of the Celica. We have Sigma LCAs, gave us a max of about -4deg of camber I think, some of which we removed. Run zero or 2mm toe-in, although toe-out will make it turn in better. The trouble with toe-out is it makes the car nervous at speed and very darty. Run lots of castor. Stick to bushes if you can, I'm no rose-joint fan either. Take a look through 'how not to build a rally car', that was an understeerng too-low dog when he started and now it floats over (almost) everything and turns in beautifully then slides controllably...

How was it running the few days before you stopped it?? Easy to start then?? If the dizzy was screwed down tight the timing shouldn't have moved... so- Is the spark you have at the spark plugs sitting on the tappet cover?? or did you check it somewhere else? If you have spark at the plugs, does it backfire or cough when you crank it, or you get absolutely nothing?