altezzaclub

Auto to manual needs the nose changed, but once you have the manual shaft they fit 4speed or 5speed the same.

What's the story with the thermostat jacky? Checked it yet?? or did the sender unit fix the problem.

Shades you're a lot closer to the source aren't you?? Should be cheaper up there and damm near free in Darwin! :laff:

Ignore the auto's radiator cooling lines, mine are still there and they hold up the battery cable for me! The vacuum emission control system is different between auto and manual, but I remember blocking everything except the charcoal canister and the dizzy vac advance. I cleaned it all up when I fitted SU carbs more recently.

Yes, "why".... Do you know what a diff is for?? ..and do you know what welding it will do?? What we desperately need is someone to engineer a simple LSD dropin for the KE70 using some common cheap components such as gears and clutch plates, even if we have to machine new carriers ourselves.

Find an Inch & 3/4 HS6 off some British POS like a Triumph Spitfire or TR series, or a Volvo.... If you run across a 2" grab that anyway, the 1&3/4 does up to 1500cc then the 2" goes above that.

This is how much further forward the flat-front 5speed fitted in our '83 slanty. Only a couple of inches... http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493&hl=

Actually the autos have the 4.3 and the manuals have the higher gearing of the 4.1. The 5speed will not affect anything except 5th, as its just a 4spd with an overdrive fitted. We have the auto diff with a 5speed, it cruises nicely at 3000-3400rpm, which is just around 100kph. 5th only drops the revs a few hundred rpm, so we change down before 3000rpm going up a hill or it makes no difference as the poor little 4K dies... It would haul the manual diff no problem, but we had an auto car to start with.

I'd use an SU carb as you can tune the mixture as needed quite easily, and they flow sideways like a DCOE rather than up and down like the stock carb. Fitting a big fire extinguisher?? :laff:

Isn't that normal Trev?? Hot water goes in the top, gets cooled as it flows down and cool water exits the bottom back into the motor. Its just that FWD flow sideways don't they?? If your bottom hose is NOT a lot cooler than the top then your radiator is not working!

Yes, I wondered how Ford did it. I assume it seals around the top of the carb when you close the bonnet so ""oil can't blow over the windscreen from an exploded engine"" or some other bullshit story they use to ban things like that! I've always wanted to slot the bonnet to get air out from under there but lefting the rear edge was not legal.... So on the last rally car I built the 'frame' for the fibreglass bonnet took a diagonal shortcut across each rear corner, and the bonnet itself was only one cloth thick, so quite flexible. At rest it looked great, flat with a curve as it should have, but as the speed built up the rear corners would lift and let the air pressure out of them...

Yep.. slap a couple of control arms onto the springs or add a reversed leaf or any of the tricks to hold it in place.

Yep- That what we did to the rally car fibreglass bonnet one time..... and it bulged up at about 160kph and bent in the middle!! :laff: Do it like a Falcon Shaker! Hole in bonnet and scoop sticks through.

No reason why not... probably breathe better, but it will be hot air under there in traffic on a sunny day.

Back at that time I was rallying in South Africa, and a popular option were closed-odo rallies for road cars. Thee were run on open roads, so speeds were set below the speed limit, and you were penalised for being early or late at controls. Of course out in the countryside there was very little traffic, especially at night, and twisty roads that made you work hard to average the set speed. Great fun, & I've often wondered if it could get off the ground here. We just notified the Police and the Councils we were having it, we didn't have to ask for permission.

Problem number one- battery poor, starter/solenoid poor, bad connection going to the starter or back to battery. Check all the leads to start with. I can't see how that is related to problem number one... Is that just as you lift off to let the revs drop? Ignition timing retarded, which would make it hard to start, or burnt valve, which would make it hard to start, or head gasket leaking... Could be a lot of things in problem number 3. Igntion timing, (better check points dwell & timing) plugs or leads, (check both), burnt valve again, or head gasket, not to mention some fuel issues. plus the air leaks! So plenty to check before worrying about the speakers! :laff:

Thanks for that, nice to see a bit of homegrown USA! What was the speed limit in the those lovely twisty forests??

Check for continuous drain as thatdude said- First thing, disconnect it when you get home at see if it starts the next morning- Then take off the negative terminal and put a small 12v light bulb between the wire and the battery. If it lights up then something has a path to earth and that something is draining your battery. Find it! With no alternator at all a car will run for days unless you have the headlights on. Have you done any work on the car recently? My last problem was fitting the O2 sensors, which have heaters in them, and I picked the wrong wire to power them. The symptoms were exactly the same as yours- good battery, car started with a jump, but both mornings the battery was flat. I changed to a spare wire by the coil that was ignition controlled. (made sure that time!)

True- the more work you do yourself the cheaper it will be. A lot of a respray is boring basic sanding and stripping/re-assembling it, so if you do those it should cost between a grand and $1500. Go see the nearest couple of guys and talk it over. I sanded & stripped the blue car as much as I could, drove it down and took some panels off at the panelshop, they undercoated it and I reassembled it enought to take it home. Then I sanded down all the undercoat and repeated it. Not exactly legal driving it half-stripped, that's why you get someone close to home. I took out some of the dents and left some others in. 3/4 of the car cost $800 in Glasurit. Looks great and will do for decades. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=42407&st=0&p=445727&fromsearch=1entry445727

I'd check the head gasket also- When you do the airlock test start it from overnight cold, so the thermostat is shut. If bubbles come out of the rad and it overflows before it is warm then you have a leaking head gasket. If they come out when its warm then it could be either head gasket or air locks.

Yes- you should try and get away from points with those revs. Someone on here was selling Starlet electronic dizzys a few months back. The KP61 seems to be the one, there were thousands of them in NZ. The advance curve might be a trick, I assume you will need something special done by a dizzy specialist.

Yes, make the relays do the work instead of burning out the switch- Adapt this to the KE30 http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1856&hl=

Replace the next-highest resistance lead! Use the black lead if that worked OK. If that solves it throw the blue leads away and tell us what brand they were! You could try a spray of body deadener or WD40, which will increase the insulation on the cap, but it shouldn't need that. You would just be treating the symptom, not solving the problem.

A leaf or a piece of plastic floating around in the petrol tank that can block the outlet occasionally...! Does it do it when cold or warm? The filter will only fill up if you hold it up so the bubbles get sucked out, but they don't matter. How about stopping the car the moment it runs rough and checking the fuel level in the carb, and compare that to when its running well. It may be that sone fibre is stuck around the needle & seat in the float bowl adn it runs rich at the times it dies. Better would be an oxygen meter up the exhaust pipe that told you when it was rich and when lean. Do you want to start a "Weber Specs" thread and list what jets and chokes you have, along with cam & exhaust. Slowly we could build up a set of specs for the Weber carb that suits the 4K best, and a 'common troubles' list for them.

haha- yeah I saw it there Cinky, but I didn't bother to ask them about it. It must be in the "too good to wreck" section. I assumed they had it earmarked for someone.