altezzaclub

Well, since then its been a daily for the wife or the daughter, depending on who leaves first. However recently Mrs Altezzaclub bought an Xtrail and Miss Altezzaclub bought a new i30, which means I have an excess Altezza and Hoonicorn... so its up for sale for around $3300. I can run it anywhere from Bathurst to Armidale to meet someone, it just has to be on my regular trips up and down. Its completely reliable and rego'd to next June.

best one I know of- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/54227-the-rwd-2az-fe-thread/?tab=comments#comment-549475

Hell yes! Sort that out first, its probably behind all the problems you're trying to solve!

Rattles in the tappets, but otherwise it sounds fine... has it changed from what it was?

For any old car, take the dizzy cap off and turn the motor by hand a little to see which way the rotor turns. You'll find K motors turn clockwise. The firing order is 1342, only a few very odd engines use 1243, its unbalanced. Usually #1 is closest to the engine and at the front, so that lead is shortest, but when the dizzy is out it can be put back in any way. So- turn the motor by hand until the rubbing block of the points is right on top of a dizzy shaft shoulder. That is max points opening. Check the points gap with feeler gauges and get them to about 0.4-0.5mm. When the motor runs pistons 1 & 4 come up together, then 2 & 3 come up together. You need to have #1 on its firing stroke and #4 on its exhaust stroke for this next bit. Take the plugs out first. Then take off the oil filler cap and turn the motor watching the rockers at the front of the motor under the oil cap. You'll see #1 inlet rocker there, its in front of the oil filler cap and the exhaust rocker is wayyy at the front. When the crank comes up to top dead center that rocker will close and be still for the firing stroke, or moving and opening as the crank goes past TDC on the exhaust stroke. Both strokes have the same look on the crank pulley, which is why so many people set #4 by mistake. Watch the rocker to work out if it is #1 cyl firing or #1 cyl on exhaust. You will want #1 to be firing, so the rocker will close at 1/4 before TDC and stay closed as the crank goes past TDC. If it is moving, then the next time the crank comes to TDC will be firing. Then turn the crank to 10deg BTDC on the firing stroke, you'll see it on the cam cover and there's a groove on the back edge of the crank pulley that goes right past it. That's when the spark plug will fire. With the crank at 10deg, you want the points to be just opening, so now you turn the distributor until the rubbing block is just touching the start of a dizzy shaft shoulder. That's why you need to know it turns clockwise, the rubbing block has to be on the clockwise side of the shaft shoulder. Turn the key onto 'ignition' and it will spark just as the points open, you turn the dizzy back and forth a little until it just sparks and that's where you lock the dizzy. That's fine for running the motor, you can check it with a timing light later, but I find doing it by hand is just as good. Whatever plug lead the rotor points to when you put it back on is now #1. The other 3 leads follow clockwise, 3 then 4 then 2. You can change which lead is #1 by taking the dizzy out and turning it around so different teeth mesh on the cam. 17 is a great age to learn about cars, you'll be an expert by your mid-20s and you can carry the knowledge forward when we're all dead in 20years!

I thought they just allowed an angle difference between the column and the box, like a cheap UJ for small angles. They will take vibration out of the steering wheel, and allow an angle to develop between the box and the column in a crash, but they don't stop the column coming upwards and smacking you in the face like the sliding joint does. The KE70's UJ allows a much sharper angle in the steering shaft so the rack can be mounted further back with the same steering column angle, otherwise we'd be driving buses. Knock one up out of any plate lying around and try it. If there is an angle change, as seen from the side, between the column and the box shaft then the plate will flex as it turns, and the steering will get tight and loose as it turns. If they are parallel then a solid one will be fine. (We do have random racks and columns lying in cars out in the paddock...)

What do you want it to end up as? Would it include better handling with sway bar mods, a camber change at the front and more castor to get more turn-in? Would it include more power? The 4AGE must fit in there easily, but if not you're a bit limited by the space. Changing the carb would need something shorter than a Weber DCOE, and finding a hot cam would be hard I expect. Bike carbs and a custom cam cut with a skimmed head and a clean-up of the ports would liven it up, but it would be a lot of money for not a lot of gain compared to a 4AGE. Brisbane will just rust it out before its much older, so rustproof it carefully & keep it clean and polished. Buy another car later as a daily and pull the '82 out for Toyota meetings.

Ok. The oil problem should'nt affect the carb unless you had the carb or manifolds off the head & ended up with an air leak in there now. Hopefully you've sorted the oil leaks & someone can sort the carb for it. Nice car in the background..... That shouldn't need the bonnet up!

Convert to rack!!!! ..or maybe a rack UJ. Nah, they're twice the price! Rob, I've never even heard of someone replacing one of these. They have to be flexible as the angle changes as the turn. Do you want a used one? cheers

Ah... give us the history before the timing problem. Why did you replace gaskets? Was it running happily before that? If not, what was the problem then? The most likely problem involves the needle & seat, but if someone has modified it the jets may be to blame.

This is at the local wrecker. Probably cost $20.The postage will cost more than that, from Postcode 2800 Aussie to Sweden, $22. Let me know if you want it. https://auspost.com.au/parcels-mail/calculate-postage-delivery-times/#/option/international/AU/SE?fromPostcode=2800

Looks great! The rust is just typical, always in those spots. Its certainly great value! You're not going straight to a 3SGE with an Altezza half-cut? There's a strong Altezza club in Ireland, although I don't know how the import prices are. They're about $1850Euro here in Aussie.

Oh yes. The motor stops in roughly the same position each time, maybe with a random piston halfway up on compression, so only some teeth on the flywheel get hit. They wear away and the starter teeth won't mesh with them. It just goes 'click'..... Was the starter motor you bought new or used? Was it reliably working on a car if it was used? Reconditioned and guaranteed by a shop? They're all getting old and worn out. Here's the inside of a solenoid, I usually just put a washer under each heavy copper bolt/terminals to move them closer to the contact bar. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=12&t=842819

The gear is moved in and out by the low-current solenoid windings. They carry a bus-bar forward with the gear that makes contact between the high-current wire and the starter motor. Probably the contacts in the solenoid are burned away, so it moves the gear along but can't take current to your new starter motor. If you have a new solenoid on the new starter, the other clicking problem is a half flat battery, and the third one is a worn ring-gear so the starter teeth don't engage properly. Also check the heavy earth wire from the motor to the chassis, and the one onto the battery. A final problem, but less likely, might be in the key barrel where it doesn't send good current to the solenoid. Of course, a 2nd-hand 'new' starter might also be faulty!

While I was back the girls complained about the Altezza using too much fuel. I took a pair of plugs out to check, and took a pair of the new iridiums out of the KE70. The Altezza plugs looked fine, the KE70 were black! On the next trip up I had the mixture display on the 4AGE and saw that it was rich all the time. I stopped a couple of times, took the cold start injector off in case it was jammed on, but no difference. Then I moved the throttle position sensor around a whisker, and it leaned out! Up at the workshop I took a pair of plugs out and they had cleaned up. Wayyy back I had modified the bracket that the last owner put on the TPS to use a FWD throttle on a RWD. I figure the sensor ring has turned on the shaft a little, and that was sending incorrect information to the ECU. I should look at it while I'm at home for a couple of weeks, but its running so well & has a more stable idle than ever before, I'm reluctant to disturb it! I figure it has been getting worse over the years, which is why the head was always full of carbon. I didn't put the cold start injector back on, and it made no great difference over a couple of weeks of hard frosts and a couple of days of snow.

NSW- Nearly everyone on here is in Australia. It'll be like Ebay in the USA, freight will be much more than the cost of the part!

Getting back up to the workshop was OK, the Council tractor cleared the hill. Steve had gone back after dinner in the Landcruiser, but could only crawl up using the locker. Things were still pretty chilly at the workshop- Anyway, we fitted the dizzy, found it was very close to the extractors so made a heat shield- The alty wouldn't clear the extractors either so we moved that to the other side, which meant lengthening wires. The heat shield is in this photo too. The diff had the shock mounts welded up and its back in. Steve picked up a pair of wheel crawlers, those things the V8Supercars slip under the tyres to wheel a car sideways back into the pits, they just need a bit of cutting and welding to be made useful and very handy in the shop. The braided lines arrived, clutch and diff lines great, the fronts need a hard 90deg angle to keep them out of the stones. We've gone from Celica calipers on the back of the strut to Corona calipers on the front. So next trip in Sept will be all wiring and planting I expect, spring is just around the corner.

Another trip & more adventures! Too many photos I didn't take as usual... Anyway, the red truck was re-assembled and passed rego, so now it will sit in the shed until next year.. Too big to use for feeding out, too small to carry a useful number of cattle. We ran out of water in the big 22000L house tank, while there was only 6" left in it the endless frosts help blow a plastic line off and it leaked out. We moved the tank, put down more sand and fitted a new tap. The top had collapsed in so we took that off and inverted it again, its awaiting the next trip up. The snow put 6" of water back in it! Ah, the snow, yes... after a week of freezing temperatures and high winds, the snow came for a couple of days. That week made the fireplace a great asset, I wouldn't want to be in the shed without it. The snow did make driving between the farms fun however! 6pm as we close up- Outside its like this- and driving home is like this- two days later its like this- and someone has to stand on the back of the truck feeding out hay every two days!

I can find you an old one, but it will be a month before I'm back at the car store. You might find one sooner.

This is from 12years ago, so I expect those guys have moved on from here. If you hover over their avatar it will tell you when they last visited. However, as you read there, a Commodore diff or a Hilux, or any ute/van diff you can fit will do. You'll have some welding to do for the mounts, and I don't know if you'll have to shorten it in the 'pines. PM Oh what a nissan feeling, he's up with this side of it.

Does the clutch work nicely at the moment? Are you sure its a rear main seal and not a front gearbox seal? Check the inside of the bell housing to see if the front gearbox seal is leaking. All the black leaking oil from the rear main seal will be up the back of the flywheel and around the front of the bell-housing, then spreading backwards. The gearbox oil leak will be dripping out of the gearbox shaft area. Mine is gone, its a $10 seal, but you have to strip the gearbox from the back forwards to replace it, a $250 job. It can drip on the garage floor until the clutch gets oil on and becomes shudderery- last time I cleaned the clutch plate with petrol & put it back in, been over a year now... Just check the clutch plate for thickness, it has wear grooves in it, Spin the thrust bearing and see that it is smooth & quiet, not dry or rough. Look at the springs in the pressure plate to see that none are broken. Usually my clutches last 200,000km unless there is a manufacturing fault.

Sort out number one firing as Davew7 said, watch the rockers through the oil cap to make sure its #1 firing stroke and not exhausting stroke. The #1 rockers will be still at TDC firing, but rocking for #1 exhausting. It will fire as soon as the points open, so while you set the points gap on top of a square shoulder on the dizzy cam to get maximum opening, you time it before the shoulder as the points just open. So rotate the crank to 10deg before top dead center firing #1, make sure the rotor points to #1 plug lead as dave said, then set the gap with the rubbing block right on the square of the shoulder, then turn the dizzy clockwise until the points just close. I usually turn the ignition on and turn the dizzy back and forth so the points just spark at 10deg BTDC and then lock it down. With the cylinder correct, the gap correct and the timing correct, the only thing left is the plug lead order, 1,3,4,2 going clockwise.

It looks like a KE70 one, but I suppose its impossible to tell without measurements. here's my KE70 one, although its been lightened so it has the steel cut away around the edge of the area where the clutch plate runs. Here's two KE70 clutch kits, one broke a finger spring and the left-hand one is the new kit to replace it.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ ....and then contact guys who have done it to find out how hard it REALLY is. Good luck! We want a build thread!

Dammit! Went & bought the Fuelmiser CC215 based on its 0.6ohm primary, but sitting on my desk here it has a resistance of 1.3ohm, the same as any points coil! I'll check with the guys on Ebay and see what else they have.