altezzaclub

C'mon Banjo, get those old Photoshop skills out.. Toe was 2.5mm in, mainly lefthand side, now 0.9mm in & even. That would have scrubbed the front left tyre. Camber is +50' both sides, unchanged. Meh, horrible but typical. Caster 2deg 10' left and 1deg 30' right, unchanged, so it climbs up the road camber.. Rear axle is crooked, not enough to notice... Does it drive nicely Graeme?

In reality, the best would be a Ford Ecotech, but I don't know what RWD gearbox you could bolt up to it. If we solved the FWD to RWD gearbox problem then there are some really light, economical, grunty motors that are recent. Ah... mounts too, finding holes in the block in the right place for RWD could be a problem. Ask LittleRedSpirit what his biggest problems were with the 2AZ.

How wide is the BRZ motor?? The low center of gravity would be interesting, but it might not fit at all. The 2J would put a lot of weight on the nose. How about an MX5 motor & a 6-speed. Its the only 4cyl RWD motor setups that is still new. Seeing they race so many of them the tech for modifying them is also new. Even the Altezza 3SGE is getting old now, but either would give you a light car that still handled well.

Should be dead easy, all the parts are common Toyota bits aren't they. If you're really lucky the wiring is all in place, you might just have to buy a relay. Hunt the wreckers and see if they have one in the yard.

" the passanger front was well worn on both sides " What was the other front tyre like? Negative camber takes out the inside edge, positive camber takes off the outside edge, and toe strips the tyre right across. Low tyre pressures wear both edges, high tyre pressures wear the center out. Just seems odd....

makes sense then- you won't be worrying about wheel travel as much as torque twisting one rear wheel right off the ground.

Pro9 do them, but I can't see they do any better than the 5-link that's in there. Nissan ran the 4-link with angled arms in their 1980s cars, we always thought it was a compromise as the arms fight against one another when the suspension goes up and down. http://www.pro9.com.au/?PCID=10796&PSO=259&PSID=Pro9-4LK1000VT&PSV=Primary&CDO= Pro9 have parallel links and a diagonal locating arm instead of a panhard. You planning some big horsepower?

Coln's right, no camber adjustment from factory. You can check it yourself with a spirit level, (Sigh.. or a smart-phone app!) and if its out far enough to worry you, buy camber-tops. Cheapest is to slot the mounting holes in the turret top and spotweld washers on in the new position. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Corolla-Levin-KE70-AE86-TE71-Adjustable-Absorber-Camber-Pillow-Ball-Mount/183145049280?epid=7015422566&hash=item2aa44bacc0:g:ooMAAOSwOvhatnNL

Nice! What motor is in it, the 4K or a T?? If you use a 1J the weight in the nose will change the handling a lot, the same with bigger heavier wheels I find. That lovely feeling of being light and nimble becomes the heavier feeling of a big car. Depends on the roads you drive on mainly, but tight mountain roads are wonderful when it feels light.

While I've been working my way through endless lists of chores at home, Josh phones up.. He navigated for Steve for a while, then moved to Blaney, just out of Orange, and he's building an Evo 3 for the Orange Rally this weekend. So i've had a couple of afternoons working on something completely different with about 4times the bhp! Mind you, after seeing this clip, I'm sure you can get enough out of a 4AGE ! https://www.facebook.com/VHTRacing/videos/248299146008069/?s=100000342565571&v=e&sfns=mo

here's what you're looking at- You could get it quite a bit higher if you made a new pump base and pickup, with wings as you say, or a flat bottom rearwards and aim the pickup to the back where the oil collects as you accelerate.

Racing car?? Are you allowed to dry sump it? A Billzilla el cheapo dry sump using the 4K oil pump for pressure, fed directly from the reservoir and a scavenge pump added to suck it all out again??

Go in the boot and strip both tail light assemblies. Clean all the contacts and earths and try it again. They are one source of poor earths and confusing wiring problems involving brake lights, tail lights and indicators.

Woo! Nice! I was expecting something rougher than that! So it can be a project car that is off the road being worked on while you do an engine upgrade. In 15years your first-born can drive it!!

Would you like to start a new topic with this question, it would be easier to find in the future. Where do you live and what engines are around?? There is the 2L Toyota Y engine (114lb.ft) that would fit, at least is has a square bore and stroke, or the long stroke 7K (103lb.ft) as you said. An oversquare 18R would be another contender, (107lb.ft) in fact you could fit almost anything with a bit of work.. How big is your budget and how much experience do you have in swapping motors? Are you sure the 5K is in good condition? Do a compression test and check the points and timing to see how well it is performing. It is definitely a bit small for a commercial vehicle.

Depends on how long you're going to keep the car... The old alty will wear out & a new bracket is not that hard a job. Its probably worth mailing a bracket from Aussie, although if you can easily return the alty & get your cash back you might as well. Where abouts are you?? Did you buy the car? Is it going to be your daily driver or do you drive something else? Stick up some photos..

Yeah, looks like there is a wire missing off the coil +ve. The ballast resistor drops 12V down to 9V for the 9V coil, but it gets bypassed when you're cranking. So the +ve coil side has two wires, one straight from the key for cranking, and one from the ballast resistor for running. Then the -ve goes to the dizzy, and to the tacho if you have one, and often to a capacitor to get rid of radio noise. Get a test light or a multimeter and find the wire that is +12v when the key is on cranking, it should be red, that goes on coil +ve. Check that the wire from the ballast to coil +ve is live when the key is just on ignition. Check where the coil -ve wires go to. You only need the one going to the distributor really. With the points open and the key on ignition, you should get a spark across the points with a screwdriver. There are wiring diagrams on here. See how you go... Oh, that purple wire just goes around the engine bay to the other side I think.

Start a new topic & give us some details... Have you put a multimeter between the starter body and the battery negative?? The resistance should be under 1ohm.

Well, 2019 is not going to be a good year for freedom, especially in NZ! The laws banning guns have been sitting around on Govt books since the '90s, and one Aussie visitor is all they needed to whip them out and ram them through. Even more important are the new laws banning free speech, as guns will get replaced by other weapons eventually, but speech won't. It always starts with banning holocaust denial, then insulting Muslims, then denying womanhood victim status and as always it will end up banning criticism of the Govt. Keep your eyes open...

Si is the man- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/10940-sis-5kte-ke55/?tab=comments#comment-155719 Stevejw did it too- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73977-does-anyone-have-a-4k-c-turbo-manifold/?tab=comments#comment-714381 ..and 4KT https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/59642-4k-c-carbie-turbo/page/6/ Just use the search button.. and have a read of this so you can add your experiences afterwards.. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/

I'd be onto that thanks Stu, I'll shoot you a PM.

Well, I finally got down to the wrecker and took a look around for plug leads. The Nissan lead had been doing well, but I found a set on a Mazda Astina that fitted fine. Put this in your notebook, because the Takumi tax on these things is pretty steep!! Still trying to sort wheels, although I've bought the 14" tyres. Just can't decide which set of alloys for the Datsun 1600 & which for the KE. Wheelnuts and washers for both sets are a pain, they're 17mm shanks while everything these days is 18.3mm.

They're the same K motors so I'd be amazed if it didn't work. Manual and auto are the same, the wiring inside is the difference with the auto lockout, you will have all of that and it won't make a difference. How come it hasn't got a starter? or has it got one that doesn't work? None at the wreckers locally?? There are 3 or 4 here in Orange.

Well, its so clean its worth putting some money into so you get a car you love and keep it for 20years.. I'm sure no-one would have thought KE70s would be worth keeping for 40years, but they are quite sought-after now. Save up more cash and do the 4AGE conversion, at least you can do that yourself. If the exhaust rusts out in the meantime put a larger one on with sports mufflers, and if you're really keen find a free-flow aircleaner setup, but anything more would be costly for not enough gain. I couldn't find any of the major cam grinders in Aussie advertising 4AF cam profiles, so that might be a sticking point for internal mods straight away.

Ah! Of course, I was thinking of the 4AC in the AE71, you've got 15KW over that single-cam unit already. Well, any time people have suggested doing up a 4AF everyone says "drop in a 4AG"... I expect that is worldwide so no-one has spent much time in developing the 4AFs. Dang! Reading Wikipedia I can see why! " The 4A-FE is different from the 4A-GE in terms of performance and power. Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that it employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt). Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles[who?] to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low RPM means that it has about 10% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. This engine design improves fuel efficiency and torque, but compromises power. " You're really on the back foot with the carb version, 71KW and 127NM, even the injected F had a big jump to 84KW & 145NM. So it looks like a good porting job would be a start, you might ask odelskewoltoy his thoughts, he's a head porter in the USA. He's on here as well. https://www.club4ag.com//forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&p=134326#p134326 If the heads are cheap, buy a 2nd one from a wrecker and expect to ruin one in your education. I have a feeling your whole budget could vanish into having it done commercially, but ask a few shops anyway. it looks like it will be a battle to get it to rev high, so aim for torque. Carbs... can you fit twin DCOE Webers in there?? a single DCOE? Quad bike carbs?? You'll probably need to make your own inlet manifold for them either way. Cams that aim for lift more than massive duration, an exhaust of medium size rather than large.. Lots of reading to do- https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/356232-4af-engine-modifications-idea-problems.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/381051-modified-corolla-1600-16v-4af-carb-engine.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/136189-4af-mods.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/16-archived-corolla-threads/102365-cheap-mods-4af.html https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-corolla-6th-generation-1988-1992/29170-4af-performance-tuning.html Well well, look at this! https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/64392-4AF-head-prep-and-porting?s=95332339e6fe1c856317a743897c4d62 Plenty to get you thinking-