bAKER

I heard that also. After a year of searching I couldn't find any. So I'm guessing the 6 degrees is a myth made up by toymods haha. Also RCA's help too.

Sigma LCAs do not give 5-6 degrees. I put some in a ke70 and then on a wheel alignment machine, which came in to around 2degrees 55minutes. Perhaps if you had camber tops on your struts. I have ke30 LCAs in my current car, which are at 1 degree. Both these setups with stock struts and about 2inch drop. Lock spacer is definitely a good upgrade, for obvious reasons. You don't need to spend $1000 on random ajps stuff. Its just not needed. If you're hardcore enough you'd get sponsored and have custom parts made up. 1 off lock spacer: EDIT: this car has sigma LCAs installed in this photo.

I'm assuming your talking about your ke70 ;] What are you doing with the car? Drifting? Track? Daily? Coilovers are good for front low. Cut some king springs for the rear, and some short stroke shocks, munroes are good. You'll need to cut the bump stops. The coilovers shoul come with the knuckles if they're any good. Xt130s are good for 1degree camber. Sigma LCAs for 3 degrees. Ke30/55 LCAS are almost exactly the same, just need to bash the lock stops off and they cost a third the price and much more abundant. Lock spacers aren't needed unless you're a drifter or want to do crazy good U turns. They also wreck the rack seals, no point for a daily. Panhard is a must if you're lowering your car, keeps the diff in the centre of the car. EDIT: I'd recommend a rear sway bar, makes the car feel a lot more solid, when going too fast around corners.

wherever you want

go to a wreckers mate. should be able to find millions.

I love advans. Shes gonna be hektik bruz.

shes for sale again.

If you have a photobucket account they stay until the account is closed, or not used for 1 year. My build thread has photobucket photos from years ago. i lyk dis poast, iz gunna hlp da n00bs.

Looking good mate. Did you notice much difference with the rear sway bar? Is there anything wrong with your old diff? Keen on knowing how you set up the T series. Not sure if I should get a Tarago F or a T. Keep it up ;]

You'll need somehting to hold hte LCa in the correct position while pressing. A really big socket, or an old bearing race should do it. THe balljoints should come with grease in a little packet. or already in the balljoint. Or its just Moly grease.

Car up. Wheel off. LCA out. balljoint circlip off. press old balljoint out. press new one in. put back together.

$1500 will probably buy you a 5k with a sp and some tractors. A good starting point, as funds come through do things properly. try starting around 500. if the rust is so bad that that doesn't help, sandblast then try again. If theyre alloy, youll want to start off with an alloy cleaner, and scrub hard with some dishwasher brushes. then try 1200+.

Have someone push the clutch in and out while you're listening for it to confirm thrust bearing. otherwise, it sounds like a pulley squeaking. take off fan belts one at a time, to see if the noise is still there. if yes, its a pulley.

Shes getting close :D Rolling guards before topcoat? probably a good idea?

Rocket covers no longer leak. Wheels almost done, next weekend going on and guard rolling for the Not Alpine Cruise.

She Runs. Front LCAS's in. New ball joints and bushes. Front Castor Brace in. Wheel Alignment done. Installed new custom scorcher Dizzy and coil. Runs like a dream. To do: New Rocker cover nuts. Oil seems to be seeping out through the broken nut caps. Bumpers. Although I'm liking the stock bumpers at the moment. Fix Riversides. Bought some 14x7 +4 Riversides, still need a bit of work, need to get some bad clear coat that's flaking off. And some Riverside stickers to suit. Had a good day at hanging rock ;]

the stock ecu wont run turbo boost. Go for aftermarket. thb, you should be making a loom from scratch to suit EXACTLY what you need.

heads up on a 3 year old post haha.

Proven rims: stud pattern: 4 x 114.3 size: 14x6 or 7 close from +15 - 0 offset Tyres: 185 60s. You'll need to roll guards. Lowering: lowering thread. Pics when done!

ae71s and ke70s are basically the same car, basically the same price. Theres no 1 spot to look, look everywhere. Common places are around the tail lights (look from inside the boot) Bottom of rear quarters, Around fuel filler, and door drain holes.

I built a 4age on twin dellorto dhla40s. I've done the Silicone Chip ignition timing computer (Basically the same thing), and it was a major headache. Unless you REALLY know your electronics, I wouldn't recommend it. Also, you have to program each MAP position individually, all 250 of them. I ended up opting for a custom built distributor with a matching custom timing computer. If I was to do it again, I'd go with ITBS, and injectors. Goodluck with the build.

over diff to be safe.

hey mate, might be worth putting this in the nsw section, it'll be easier for you to get some interest. sounds like a fun trip! http://www.rollaclub.com/board/forum/30-nsw-sydney/

http://www.google.com.au/search?rlz=1C1_____en-GBAU465AU465&ix=hcb&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=how+much+does+a+4age+conversion+cost%3F

wouldn't a 4ag head be better? just run it on carbs?