rian

If that's the case then what's so good about a JDM tank? They are crazy expensive.

^see above, use a VL/VL turbo fuel system with a surge tank. It's kind of pricey but it's new and isn't likely to fail/has a warranty. Plus it looks to be the easiest and probably the best solution to the EFI problem, other than a JDM AE86 fuel system.

The GE015 lift-pump was $68 + freight (I gave you the wrong price on the other page) and the Bosch 070 was $184 + freight. So about $260-270 all up. After doing a fair bit of research it seems like the setup to go for, the Goss lift pump comes with a 2 year warranty, not sure on the warranty of the Bosch unit but you can be pretty sure it will last years. And the pressure rating for the 070 is quite close to that of the standard 4AGE pump but with a higher flow rate. Also the 070 is the only cheap Bosch pump with a 5/16" (8mm) outlet, all the others have huge threaded outlets which I totally could not be bothered dealing with.

It seems that all I do is buy parts: Lift pump, EFI pump, 6001 spigot bearing, control arm and castor rod bushes Bosch 070 EFI pump Goss GE015 in-tank lift pump Size comparison

You should be able to get them at most auto stores, I know of at least one company (Goss fuel pumps) that makes them and you can get these through Supercheap and probably Repco, Bursons etc. They are about $80 for a K engine fuel pump.

Now that you've fixed the 4AC..... ditch it and put a 4AGE in instead! :D

Yes

I have an Otomoto coilover kit installed on the struts in my daily KE70, it seems good, I've never had any issues with them. However I have some how accumulated many paris of Otomoto upper spring seats and they are very flat. They look like they would foul on the camber plates if you were running a bit of neg camber. Though I'm not sure about that because I ditched the Otomoto upper spring seats in favour of some T3 ones when I bought camber plates. Edit: Just google HSD coilover kits and the upper spring seat has a reasonable taper on it. Mine are very old so they may have changed since then.

^From what Ke70Dave says and what I've been reading, in-tank lift pumps seem to be the way to roll, especially if you want something quite/daily car worthy. I can get you one if you'd like, but won't be able to give it to you until the 22nd of June. They're only like $85 from SCA or Repco, you could just pick one up locally if you couldn't be bothered waiting.

^I used glue and then bogged around the edges. Okay so today I received the Superpro control arm and castor rod bushes that I ordered, they're hard! I also ordered a VL turbo (Bosch 070) EFI pump, however I couldn't find the part number for a Bosch in-tank lift pump to suit. So instead I ordered a Goss branded GE015 in-tank lift pump, which is also to suit a VL turbo. I've never used any Goss products before, and I'm pretty sure the lift pump is made in China. However Goss is part of GUD (along with Ryco filters) so I'm assuming the pumps are of reasonable quality. Can anyone comment on the quality of Goss fuel pumps? And I'm going to ask my bawssss-welder friend if he can make me an alloy surge tank, which I think he already mentioned he would but I can't remember. So that should be my fuel system sorted and hopefully there won't be anything stopping me from completing the engine conversion, apart from finishing exams.

Sell me the twinky wheel!

^Twilight fag

Try and find a wiring diagram, it should have what fuses go where in each circuit.

You probably have this problem: http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/350-Common-Problem-AE71-KE70-Headlight-indicator-Switch This happened to me as well.

I liked the old green.

This is awesome! It seems that every country other than Australia got a cool version of the KE70.

^ Wrong. You're not a bogan until you get a locked diff :harhar:

WMMH: Just remembered how much I The Chronic 2001

Are you sure you didn't just blow the fuse for the clock? I think it runs off the same fuse as your cigarette lighter, I've blown that fuse a few times when I've been fiddling with stuff.

Memes are hilarious, you're weird.

Yes get a KE70 specific boss kit. I had a boss kit that fitted a "Toyota", it physically fitted on the steering column but it did not engage the indicator cancelling mechanism, so I had to flick my indicators off manually. It got super annoying.

That's what I was thinking when I googled HCH to find they're a chinese bearing company.

I ordered it through Supercheap Auto, but the bearing itself came from Bearing Wholesalers or something. I'll take it back in and see if I can swap it for a Nachi item. I was a bit annoyed when I received a random branded bearing, thinking I was going to get a Nachi or similar. I should have just got one through you Sam, next time I'll know where to go. Thanks for the heads-up.

Has anyone used HCH bearings before? I ordered a spigot bearing the other day, expecting it to be an NSK or Nachi bearing, but an HCH bearing turned up. I've never heard of them before, and was just wondering if anyone has used one or heard of them. The bearing was only $3, and now that I think about it that seems to cheap for a spigot bearing, I searched for other brands and they are more like $10. However the part number for this bearing seems correct, it is 6001 2RS C3 V2 and was listed under spigot bearings for 4A engines in the catalogue when I ordered it. I'm just a bit suss on using a cheap bearing in my car. Anyone got any opinions? Are all 6001 bearings the same/meet the same standards?

The steering column is bolted to the pedal box, so you have to unbolt it to that to get the pedal box out. There should just be two bolts that are at the end of the pedal box, just under that dash where the steering column is mounted to the pedal box. Edit: I thought you were talking about a KE70, I'm not sure what the pedal box in a KE20 looks like. It's probably similar.