rian

Bought my oil cooler lines today, I know everyone always goes for Earls/Aeroflow/Speedflow etc braided hose but that shits pricey and you need AN fittings and I cbfed doing all that. So I bought some Gates SAEJ1019 spec trans cooler/oil cooler hose (rated to max 150*C and max 400PSI) and I was wondering if anyone can see a problem with running this on a car that sees occasional track use? I know it's not the best but I'm pretty sure 4AGEs come from the factory with the same shitty spec oil lines? Then I bought some shit to put my oil pressure gauge in, as well as new spark plugs.

All you need to know can be found here: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/How_to_build_a_tough_K_motor

What car?

From what model? Surely you must have modified it to make it fit?

Have been. Did this a week or so ago: Then my mate welded it up (I forgot to get pics of the final product), the manifold is finished and mounted on the engine (this got done on the same day I got the engine running). Pretty happy with the manifold, it's just got a blanking plate blocking off the old throttle body opening and a new aluminium plate welded on for the new throttle body mount. It doesn't look amazing but it works fine.

Money

Okay so I went and checked the Ryco catalogue again, and I ordered a Z412 fuel filter (same as Z624 but opposite flow direction). They are pricey, but Wesfil make one exactly the same for about $25 (part # for the Wesfil is WZ412). Stoked about that.

Yeah I know there's a difference between EFI and carb fuel filters. If you can find a Ryco catalogue, flick to the back and it gives you all the 'universal' filters for different applications: it has a diagram of the filter, inlet/outlet type and size, flow direction and fuel system type (EFI, carb etc). I found the right inlet/outlet, fuel system etc but forgot to check flow direction :bash: Going back to Supercheap today to see if I can find the right one, if not I'll just get a 8mm inlet/outlet inline filter like you said, and cut the banjo joint off the 4AGE fuel hose that goes to the fuel rail.

^Yeah I wanted to keep the banjo fitting on the fuel hose, but I'll just cut the banjo joint off the hose and use a hose clamp. I'm taking it back today to get an inline filter.

I'd almost rather buy a Willwood/Tilton/AP clutch pedal assembly than pay $300 for an AE71 pedal box.

^2ft breaker bar + 6 point sockets made it easy when I did mine.

Go to the biggest Repco/Autobahn/Supercheap Auto you know of and take a tape measure. Borrow their catalogue and look up the Commodore rear dampers then go grab that part off the shelf and measure it to see if it's the right length for you. Stock KE70 sedan is 560mm extended, figure out how much lower you want your car, subtract that from 560mm and that's the extended length shock you want. All you have to do is find a Commodore damper around that length, but beware, there are many variations of Commodore rear damper (sedan, wagon, ute, sports suspension, beam axle, different spec Holdens probably have different dampers etc, a lot of them are different lengths).

Have a read of this thread: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/56018-shocks-to-suit-kings-plz-help/ KE70Dave has posted the part number for KYB Excel G rear dampers to suit lowered KE70s in that thread, the thread also has a comparison that I did of various Commodore rear dampers against standrad KE70 rear dampers.

I just realise that the flow is in the wrong direction! Shit! Don't have any pics of it mounted(it's not mounted yet). I probably won't use it because it flows the wrong way :down: Here's what it looks like:

Ravs Inovit:

I'll put it in the engine bay for sure, when i get back to Byron one weekend I will probably have this thing driving. You better hurry up if you want to beat me ;)

So I managed to get the engine running on some Aerostart, as fuel lines aren't hooked up properly yet. I was waiting on a fuel filter which I now have. If anyone wants to know: Ryco Z624 fuel filters allow you to use the standard 4AGE AE82/92 fuel line that goes from to the fuel rail to the fuel filter (the part of the fuel line with the banjo bolts at either end). One end of the filter is just a 5/16 barb (same as KE70 fuel line) and the other end of the fuel filter is M12x1.25 thread (for the banjo bolt that connects the AE82/92 fuel line to the filter). Edit: I got the fuel filter part number wrong, see next few pages for correct fuel filter.

If the auto rear half doesn't fit up to the T50 front half I'll let you know and I might need buy that K40-Borgwarner off you.

So how did you mate the two halves of the tailshaft? And what tailshafts did you start with? I've got an S series tailshaft that has had the rear half converted (cut and shut) to T series, and I've also got a standard auto KE70 tailshaft. I guess I just need to know if they are the same spline where the tailshafts split at the centre bearing. BTW I very much agree with Will, Enkei mesh is dope.

Petrol engined pushbikes/scooters are illegal in QLD, however electric pushbikes and scooters are legal. I looked into it for uni transport.

^Driveline Services quoted me $600 for a custom tailshaft!! Who made yours?

Yeah I know I can have one cut and shut from the two, but that costs more than buying an AE71 tailshaft. I just want a cheap solution, I can't see any point in spending heaps of money on a tailshaft for a shitty diff that I will probably change later on anyway. I think Driveline Services quoted me $220 to change the rear flange over the the Borgwarner type. But thanks for the input. Awesome, would you happen to have any photos of it? I might message you later on to quizz you on it.

Hey RC, I've got a few questions regarding tailshafts that hopefully someone can answer. Before I start, I would just go and check out the tailshafts to see if this is possible but they are at my dad's place in Byron and I'm in Brisbane and won't get back to Byron for a couple of weeks. What I've got: I have a complete KE70 auto tailshaft (auto K gearbox to Borgwarner differential) I also have a complete T series tailshaft (T50 gearbox to T series differential, looks like it was an S series tailshaft that has been converted to T series, front half is untouched and that's the part I want) What I want to do: I'm trying to convert a KE70 to 4AGE, so far everything is done except for the tailshaft. I want a tailshaft that goes from a T50 gearbox to the standard KE70 auto Borgwarner differential. I don't want to buy an AE71 tailshaft if I can split the ones I have and use the T50 front half and the Borgwarner rear half. So, do standard KE70 tailshafts split? I know the T series tailshaft uses a flange setup in the middle that bolts the two halves together, and can be split at the flange, but the KE70 auto tailshaft does not split this way. I have heard that the KE70 tailshafts split at the centre bearing (see video below), and if the T series tailshaft also splits at the centre bearing, is it possible to split both shafts and mate the T50 front half to the Borgwarner rear half this way? Note: When I say split at the centre bearing I do not mean taking it apart at the uni joints, as far as I can tell the uni joints are different sizes between the two shafts, T series tailshaft looks to have nigger unis. Watch the video to see what I'm talking about. Skip to around 10:20 as the video goes for ages: Thanks, Rian.

4AGZE flywheel is 230mm(I think?) 4AGE Bigport (AE82) flywheel is 200mm 4AGE Smallport (AE92) flywheels is 212mm (sometimes called 215mm) Bigport and smallport are both 22 spline, get a flywheel and then get a clutch to suit it or the other way around

I did have a look at the Toyotas at the local wrecker, I was running round checking alternator plugs until realised I didn't know which plug I was supposed to be looking for... Post up a picture of the plug you need and next time I go to the wreckers I'll check again for you.