NickZ

I guess because i do everything myself it doesnt cost anything like you guys are talking, my 20V engine, gearbox, ECU, radiator, exhast, fitting would come to $1600 drive away, but i did sell the old motor etc. all up out of my pocket i spent max $500.

It needed the white walls, Now the moons look great. I think the car has a nice classic look.

want randoms. Here is another rolla for Rolla Heaven. took me 4 hours to strip it by myself, I love air tools :hammer:

Those standard rims look good. id like a set for mine.

Are you running single coil or multi coil? if its a single coil just conect the green fromthe tacho to the negitive side on the coil. If its multi coil there is a grey with a blue trace coming out of the Microtech on the 6 pin coil wiring plug, that is tacho output. If none of them work for you , you can use 4 diodes, 1 on each coil and a pull down resistor, there is a circuit around the net for this setup.

for these wheel it is ok to redrill as the backing in that area is solid, its not like the new cast wheels where its hollowed out between the holes. i would like to come to hobart for a run. i really want to have a go at the driftmeets, but its too far to come and break something and i don't have a car tralier or a car to toe one. But i do race at symmons, and will be there on the 27th august for the next meeting.

I don't even look at EOI for sale threads for all of the above reasons. There are heaps of places and old threads where you can get a rough idea of the price for a item. And for sales with make a offer they are the same as a EOI. So i vote to get rid of them. :lolcry:

We used a Microtech Digi 2 the blower has been fitted with a twin V belt pully.

We have spent about $800

What is the name and how do i get rid of this virus, i know its hit 3 of my machines but my up to day AVG isnt picking it up.

I want to know how the engine ran. You normaly don't put the magnets into steel as it spreads the magnetic field,so it wont be as pinpointed, you normaly put them into aluminium. Are the magnets raised above the surface, If it does work ok id like to try it myself.

I like it, I'm wanting to paint mine orange but leave the black

Ive got 1 Rollaclub sticker left, but youll have to come get it

yeah i agree too, its now a very nice car. Well done

yeah the 55mm will do fine, i was just on the look out for one and bought the XF one off ebay and cost me $43 delivered to my door. Was just too cheap to pass up. Its overkill but it will do the job.

when you have done it youll understand how much noise this setup makes, i used plumb back on my 2t using a Bosch plumb back and the way the BOV works in this setup is its always open at low revs so you get a SSSHHHHHHHHHHH once the revs come up the plenum has boost it will close the BOV and youll get boost. Just the air going through the valve in the BOV as it really isnt a smooth flow makes noise.

i used bosch plumb back BOV, but i would never do it that way again. I'm putting a XF 70mm throttlebody on should make it go a bit better.

Ive built 3 now using sc12 superchargers, I had a 2T-GEU with a SC12 running around 8 PSI boost blowing into the throttlebody with a bypass valve, Leigh now owns the engine in projects and rides. That had heaps of lowdown torque and went verywell, but is a little noisy with the bypassvalve (plumbback BOV) it is needed to vent the boost on idle and most revs below 2000rpm and the blower intake is open to suck air and will contuine to produce boost against a almost shut throttleplate. The 4K used 4K-e EFI manifold and was blow thoughthrottlebody too and sufferd from the same noise level and was defected for that reason, but the BOV's where small (person i was building for was a tight ass) and they where not plumbed back. running 10psi, 3-4psi at just off idle and full 10 at 3000ish Last one is the first 4K-E totaly redsinged and rebilt into a diffrent car (my brothers) that uses the throttlebody on the intake of the blower and you would think is sounded standard, quiet as a mouse :) so no trouble there, it does seem a little laggy down low and really only starts producing boost at 3000ish and only 4 psi and 8-9 around 6500. pictures etc in rides under supercharged ke70

the original blow through the throttlebody is very noisy as you need a blowoff valve to vent the boost when is idling but it makes good responsive throttle as its already boosting, it was getting about 3psi of just of idle and 10psi at 3000rpm. Moving the throttlebody to the intake of the blower has made is quiet, infact you would tink it was stanard, its alot smother but takes longer to come onto boost, we get around 4 psi till around 4500 and then it comes on upto around 8-9 psi at 6500rpm, Ive got a 70mm throttlebody to go on it next week so that will help make boost earlier, the standard throttlebody could be blocked by a thumb, its not very big and thats part of the lag.

Ummm how where you getting 11-12:1 compression ratio out of a 4K?

under the bridge where the datto club go, behind the AAMI building near HN and Supercheap

8000 tacho is fine for a 20V as the peak power is at 7400-7600rpm, yes it will go over 8000rpm but other than showing off there is no need, I find my self changing gears with mine at around 7800rpm or earlier. don't belive what you hear about 8000+ rpm's. Thats unless you want to spend $1000+ on a set of cams for a 20V for those revs.

you going to turn up this time lloyd?

its going well, but its not worthy of a video, its a great sleeper, sounds like a standard rolla when its not wheel spinning :thumbsup: Yes the drag is on, but its still the same blower as before Ive rewelded the pully wheel back on again, we have another blower but trying to get the most out of this one.

Its going, Had to replace the ECU at the last moment and rewire the injectors. Needs a bigger throttlebody, Air cleaner, a few hoses, zippy ties and paint as we all think the blue is a bit ummmm crap.