SloRolla

what colour smoke is it? Maybe a couple of things. It seems that it's getting way too much fuel. Have you checked the timing? As for the video, you'd have to upload to YouTube and post the link that way.

Have you checked the leads and plugs? also, check the fuel solonoid, turn the ignition on and pull out the power wire, if it clicks it's good. If it doesn't remove and check your 'engine' fuse.

I'm just waiting for some build pictures ;) specs are good and all but I wanna see some action!

Nice work buddy! Is the transmission going to fit in there nicely? Looks a bit tight

Rear - Cheap: lowering blocks. But that gives axle tramp and makes the ride a little more bumpy. Better way: reset the leaf springs. Adds low but doesn't give the axle tramp or 'jitters'. You can add an extra leaf for more stiff. There's a lot of different front setups. So it's all preference.

on mine, that entire hole is just weld. It was pretty poorly done, slag all over the gears.

Cheers Jon! I'l certainly have a look into pulling them apart. So basically just swap them over and be careful with lining up?

Cheers for the info boys, I have a few more questions. Would different ways of welding the diff cause more difficult to pull apart? Also, different diff ratios would cause a problem correct? I'm pretty sure they're the same but it would be awkward if I pulled it all apart and they were different.

Jon, I think you're on the money. I went to a transmission and diff rebuilder, and they said $900 for a full rebuild. Also asked if you could just swap parts of the center and he said no. However, I can't see why I wouldn't be able to, it's only a couple of bolts and stuff. Cheers!

whew, going all out! Looks beautiful!

They look great! Throw up some pics of the car they're going into!

self tapping screws? well then...

Looks really good!

Not to be rude, but there are a lot of topics on this. All I can really say is, I don't think there are any direct aftermarket bolt in clusters for 70s. So you'd have buy different gauges and make something.

correct me if i'm wrong, a 4k with a larger cam and a shaved 3k head does about 10:1 I think. So being a 5k 10.5 shouldn't be a problem?

Pictures!

grimey, dirty, muddy oil sits giving high comp. Give it a flush with some cheap oil and see if you can get it running, then go for some nice stuff.

Got it right before the stupid 86 price rise.

How much did you get it for? The difference with what you've done to it is night and day!

I'll have to say hi! My 30 looks like a heap at the moment, but she'll be nice by then I hope.

My car had the exact problem for about 3 months, turned out to be a couple of things, the plunger crumbled when I touched it, so I rebuilt the carby. That helped alot, then I finally looked and the fuel solonoid wasn't getting power. The fuse had a TINY crack in it, replaced it. Sure enough she started right up. Tuned it, and fixed the timing. now running like it's EFI ;) so +1 for a carb rebuild. They're really easy to do yourself. Also, check the solonoid by checking if it "clicks" like a relay when you pull and plug the power back in to it. Cheers!

Perhaps a silly question, but have you had a look at the "engine" fuse very closely? Could be blown :(

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/glenvale/cars-vans-utes/1979-toyota-ke55-corolla/1146163064 This thing just came up on Gumtree, thought some of you may want to see it.

Atm just wanting something that works atm. A guy was selling an r31 diff shortened and everything for 1k, I was tempted but I had other things first :( I may even just get a Borg and swap the entire axle and shaft over

Thanks for the info Dave! I'll continue my search for a stock diff.