ke70dave

Hi and welcome to rollaclub! Persumably if you have a TE30 you arent in Australia? Got any photos of your beast?

You might be lucky that they fit. It's going to come down to the shaft size. If you have the oem ones you can measure the internal diamter of the strut top, and then try and measure the shaft diameter of your tiens while they are on the car. might give you an idea if they are going to fit or not.

LIke driving through the Windows XP background. Time for an LSD by the sound of it?

Thankyou so much for taking the time to put all this information up. Really enjoyed reading and watchign your videos. I really like what you have done with that bypass valve. That electronic throttle body is a great idea. Thanks again!

Nicely done. How much money did you pay an autoelectrician to wire your car and for it not to be running when he finished?

Not to mention they look identicle.

yeah doing what you suggest is not easy. Some say you can get away with undoing the front nut, pulling off the flange replacing the seal, and putting the nut back on again exactly how it was. Others say you should go through the entire diff setup procedure to ensure the diff is setup correctly. (backlash, teeth contact area etc)

You could remove the camshafts and check all the bits that it rotates on. And also check your valve clearances. sticky valve failing to close and the piston slamming it up?:S sounds freaking nasty.

yeah no idea either, Any of these take your fancy? http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xclear+side+indicators&_nkw=clear+side+indicators&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Check out what i spotted this morning on the way to work. For those unfamiliar... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Sports_800

I get a massive amount of satisfaction when an idiot overtakes me in an agressive manor, and then they get stuck in traffic and i cruise by them again. My Drover isnt the fastest car around, and while its warming up i take things slowly, don't hold up traffic, but you wont find me hooning up the road just to stop at the next red light. This morning some idiot in a daewoo didnt want a bar of me treating my engine nicely while cold and wanted to be in front no matter what, and proceeded to overtake me on the left hand side (undertake?) when there was only 1 lane. I gave him a beep, he gave me the finger. He then got stuck behind 2 busses at the next set of traffic lights while i cruised on through at a leisurely pace. It took all my self control not stoop to his level and give him a smug look or wave. But inside, i was loving every minute of it.

If you are hell bent on the sr20 i think you are better off fabricating some new mounts to mount the sr20 to the standard cross member. Then it leaves all the suspension and steering the same. I reckon it can be done for 3k, hardest part is going to be the formentioned mounts and then a custom tailshaft is going to cost you a few hundred dollars. You already have an EFI fuel syetm, so you just have to wire the engine in. does the 22RE have a hydraulic clutch or a cable? If its hydraulic already then you're set.

I hope the buyer sees this thread.

Sounds like you already knew how much a door costs. Here are 4 doors for $75. (though he sais missing door cards). http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/adelaide-cbd/other-parts-accessories/ke70-ae71-parts-wheels/1030818058 here is front doors for $30 each http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/morphett-vale/other-parts-accessories/s13-ke70-ae71-drift-parts/1030813998 some bargains to be had here http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bellevue/wrecking/toyota-ke70-corolla-sedan-leftover-project-parts-for-sale/1007325577 if i had a door though, id be asking you for $100 for it ;)

Supply and demand means that in order to supply for $100 you need somneone who is willing to pay $100 (the demand) People have bought whole ke70s for less.

you can install one for sure. But without a turbo it will never open and never make any noise

If it makes noise then it is by definition wasting power, as the power is being used to make noise instead of driving your wheels. Mate of mine with a 12a rotor actually has 2 V belts next to each other. like this http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/42/Keilriemen-V-Belt.png They were OEM belts too, so nothing special ($$$). i thought that was a pretty good idea.

What is the point of gilmer drive anyway? You don't need pulley synchonisation on a water pump or alternator.

I know this is just repeating what matt just said, but i like graphs, and this one sums up the difference very nicely.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/67845-3k-connversion/page__fromsearch__1 You already have a thread on this? I close this one.

I've got a 2000 wrx. Probably the best car ive driven in terms of being a car for general use. Reasonably fast, oem suspension is awesome, lots of room. Interiour is great quality. Seats are fantastic and hold you in. Parts are everywhere due to the age and how many were sold. And when i drive it i can pretend to be Possum Bourne (RIP :( ) The massive problem with it is the insurance, I'm 26, no incidents and its still around 800 bucks for fully comp insurned for around 8k, and it keeps going up and up each yeah. I asked the insurnace company and they say it goes up because the cars get cheaper younger people can afford them so the risk goes up....BS if you ask me. Which is why its for sale...

How close does your engine mount come to fitting? Cause if you have an oil cooler already setup you might as well use it. Can't grind a small amount of to make it fit?

Excellent point. Follow the pipes around but it should go direclty into the sump. If it does, and you don't want to use the oil cooler then just block the plug at the sump

What you have there is a 20V oil cooler sandwhich plate, the silver thing between the oil filter and the block. If you don't want to run an oil cooler (i didnt on my 4age, some 4ages don't come with them from standard), just unscrew the oil filter, unscrew that silver thing that the oil line comes from, remove the silver sandwhich plate, and screw the oil filter back on straight to the block. and then your engien mount will bolt on all good. Or you can get a different sandwhich plate, aftermarket jobby, that might be more slim line.

Why do you want to change them? What about your ignition barrell?