LittleRedSpirit

The reason you have to use a broker is the Japanese have it pretty tightly sewn up to keep foreigners out of Yahoo auctions. I had a friend move to Japan for a few years, and while he was there I had him get a couple of parts for me from Yahoo. He had to start a japanese bank account before he could join. Even then there were hurdles. If he didnt have his Japanese and English speaking girlfriend he would have been totally lost. It took him about 2 months just to get to a point where he could buy things. If they wanted to get the best price for everything they would make it public and use paypal, but then thats the opposite of how they do they business, and the sellers suffer if you ask me.

Its 65mm long and about 8.5mm thick. Its rounded off on either end. Theres probably a few cars with similar ones. What stops it falling out is the groove that allows the boot to hold it near the exposed end.

31473-20031 Its the same for adm or jdm t50.

I did a whole heap more tonight. I removed the fuel lines from the shell. Then I grabbed the lines I removed from the other nanna shell and removed the skinny fuel return, and swapped it for a feed line from yet another car, so that I have a feed and return the same size, and a fullsize breather. Now they are all installed, although I think i had a bug living in one of the lines so i need to put carby cleaner and petrol through it followed by muchos compressed air. The T50 was about as filthy as a gearbox can get. I cleaned it with Kero, degreaser, all kinds of crap. Finally it is spotless. Well almost. I have to swap bellhousings to the jdm one, and fit a new front seal as well as the speedo drive that suits my 4.3:1 diff that I took from the JDM T50 before I sold it a while back. I also need to slip in a new rear seal. Ive fitted the engine crossmember in, and given the engine bay a quick polish with number 2 polish. Not too fussed about it now, it looks clean and nice. Tomorrow and the next few days I will keep fitting things back in. Clutch master tomorrow, plus brake booster and porportioning valve. Then I need to remove the dash and swap heater cores and run some better looms for the front of body and underdash looms. The ones in this car are pretty crispy and old. So that means basically every part of the dash needs to be removed. Ill put it all back together with the instrumentation in place. The vidigauge will be making another appearance. Tank should come out tomorrow, too. Ill have to mod the filler neck on the JDM tank for a more seamless fit, and then fit her up. Lots to do now. Need more hands and more hours in the day.

I thought the ones with fewer spokes were Cheviot Turbos? Probably wrong...

I once looked into bringing a car over from NZ. I lost interest when I saw it would be well over 2 grand to do it. Then factor in how hard parts are to get here for these rare models, and thats why i don't drive a starlet. :D Sounds like a better idea for you, however, you own the car, have mates there probably who might send you over panels and stuff, and I'm sure the running gear can be found here. Its just the cost of getting it here and otr that will be your expenses. If I were you Id stuff it full of parts before you ship it over, panels, lights, whatever you might need. Save you a lot of money in the long run. :D

It depends. 20v is perfect with a ke70 accelerator cable, not sure whats best for the 16valve. You can order new AE86 JDM throttle cable through castle hill toyota.

Hows a 25 day ban sound? Initially I was reluctant because it seems you are sincerely trying to help. However your recent outbursts have shown otherwise. It seems all you know about is modifying distributors. Thats something Ive never heard mentioned in all my time playing with 4ages. Most people bypass the need to do such things by starting with the correct distributor for their application, but what would everyone else know? Right? It seems as youve stated time and time again, you don't need us, you can work out everything by yourself. So in the spirit of you being independent, and illiterate, have a long while away from Rollaclub. Oh, by the way. To read that you gutted a sprinter of its 4age to chuck it in an AE82 is really disappointing. Shame, shame, shame. I know what the nicer, more valuable car is out of those 2. Nice work, buddy. On your break you may like to go to TAFE and do a literacy course. Just a thought. There really is no excuse for punctuation, spelling and grammar that bad. Like I said earlier, nobody could possibly use your information since its so muddled up, unclear, and inprecise. See you later. Well, hopefully not. :D

Is it just me or did you have launch control for one of those runs? Looked like an awesome launch, alittle bogged off the line to get it to hook up and then it sort of hovered the fronts til mid track really smoothly. Looking great anyhow. I'm sure every run is a new experience. :D

Its starting to come back together... I need to swap around the fuel lines so that I have 2 large lines for supply and return, then swap out the fuel tank for the Jap AE86 one that I have. While I'm under there I will probably drop the diff out of it too, and fit the Jap T series into her, along with all my 4 links that have Nolathane bushes in them. Once the diff and fuel system are swapped, Ill start fitting the engine crossmember and front suspension, then finally the engine. I'm going to wire it up with the gaurds removed so that the wires can be routed outside the engine bay for the most part.

The crash tube is in the steering column, it collapses when you crash to stop the column going through your chest, hopefully.

I doubt youll find one here. Never sold to us. Bring it over. :dance:

Now theres 2 coats. I reckon 2 is plenty. Not quite enough paint left to do the panels, so I might have to get another litre.

Its awesome till a relay packs it in...

And the first coat of white... Looking great I reckon.

gimme 3 weeks I'm there with my car finished. bahahah

Oh my god. PROGRESS!!! I sandblasted the entire engine bay and radiator support panel back to bare metal. Now its sitting there all sprayed with 2 coats of acrylic primer/filler. I didnt use etch primer since I'm not too worried what it looks like in 10 years time. Ill give it a couple of days to dry fully then Ill do 2 or three coats of white over the top and I can finally do the engine conversion and fit all the suspension. I need to find a good heater core, and also swap the front of body looms over for some better ones that I have. Just a few weeks to go now and Ill be done.

Not without many mods. Get a new one.

You can use tie rod ends and turnbuckle tubes from almost any old toyota such as ke30, XT130, RA40. As long as its got a steering box it will have the correct threads on it all. use the tube and end, it screws onto the ke70 rack end and gives more strength and better adjustment. Also, you will be forced to recentre your steering rack or they wont fit.

And the cap arrived at 8 oclock this morning. Yay.

Its slowly starting to feel better. Ive bought some garnet and soda for the blaster, but havent used it yet. I also did a trade with a fellow and managed to get a straighter bonnet than mine. Happy with that. :wink: Still waiting on my radiator cap to arrive. I should have just gone down to Taringa and gotten one straight from Toyota.

I have seen many T18s from tassy over the years on the forums, and one of my mates who moved up here from Tazington drove up in a rusty old t18 aswell. I reckon theres more of them in Tassie than QLD. :P

No ke70 van bumpers wont fit ae71 front, may go close if you make your own endcaps and brackets. The XT130 corona bumpers don't fit. Youd need to shorten them and make brackets. Cheers.

I suggest putting a plastic bag over the alternator and fuse box, then go hard. If you are using a pressure washer be gentle around seals and electrical components, but go hard on the block and body.