SeptemberSquall

I'm in

quote for truth just need to get a crossmember from wherever has a t engine in 20 series corolla locally delivered like usa for example there will be heaps of them and LHD should not affect the crossmember part in my ke36 i did the opposite of 2TGEU KE35 above and imported a TE38 crossmember from malaysia with the corresponding engine mounts ~ make sure you get these too! bolted in no hassle and i have the peace of mind knowing the motor position and tailshaft alignment etc is exactry rike sakichi say...

I'm in

grab a multimeter find a wire in the dash cluster which has 12v switched by the headlights switch ie. headlights on = +12v headlights off = 0v tap in there for your yellow wire

keen

septembersquallindustries at hotmail.com

i'm in

if you were welding engine mounts onto the existing crossmember then yes, that's how i'd do it. the other alternative is to take the crossmember with the factory engine mounts you want and add the steering rack mounts...

bump are you still interested

a and t crossmembers will probably have different engine mounts I removed the steering rack mounts from the A crossmember and welded them in place on the T crossmember you will need to remove the driver side engine to gearbox brace as it will not fit around the boss where the column meets the rack

so the ta22 tailshaft fits the ke30 borg warner rear end and t50 transmission in ke30 body for spline, flange and length?

whole v6 commos are basically free these days right? no reason not to buy one whole you'd get reamed pricewise by comparison by buying seperately

i dunno about that three shortcomings are: 1 no quench area 2 a large flame front meaning lots of advance required 3 large domes required for significant static CR meaning interference in the chamber shape

rotate the bearings

room depends on what you've got in the engine bay more details required i just converted my ke36 to hydraulic clutch and can talk you though it but without knowing whether it will suit what other things you've done i dunno..,.

is the economy rapidly/suddenly changing or becoming worse? or is it just generally crap? don't measure consumption in dollars becuse your car runs on litres of fuel dollars are not a static measure becuase the price is variable?!!>? if economy has become poor all of a sudden then something has changed check vacuum advance is connected and working check ignition base timing is right check carburettor is working generally correctly, primary and secondary function etc also ke70+4k is not a fair comparison to ke30+5k ke30 weighs less 5k is more powerful so needs less boot insertion to get it around other things like tune, engine condition etc would affect it between the two packages too 1L/$1.7 per litre = 0.588L per dollar x 10 dollars = 5.8L of fuel, then 5.8L per 50k = avg 11.6L/100km, a bit heavy on the juice but not hugely bad...

x2

good post, very interesting info

what car engines are recommendable which are rwd platform, <1300cc and more worthwhile technology wise than 3K etc? i know G13b was popular at some stage but it is front drive platform only AFAIK same with toyota E engines

recommend you consult an engineer problem may be the fluid inside the passenger's compartment? even if you remote mount the reservoir you still need to run lines inside

oops not toymods lol

top shit +rep

a 'build up of fuel' should not ignite with a bang unless it's built up in the exhaust, and the bang would not be from spark plug it would be from hot exhaust a 'build up of fuel' would cause afr to be rich when spark returns i cannot think of anything which would cause spark breakdown under those specific conditions either, except perhaps erratic coil from heatsoak from long highway drive which is fixed by cooling down my suggestion is perhaps heatsoak causing the primary butterfly to stick or some fuelling problem like jets blocked or ...? but it sounds intermittent so probably heatsoak issue maybe stick some carby cleaner then wd40 down its throat while working the throttle mechanism and see if that helps lubricate or unstick everything see if there is any gunk or crap on the outside of the carb causing external linkages to jam or block but the primary should not jam as it should be directly connected to the throttle cable/linkage so i dunno /end stream of consciousness

Yo, What displacement are you planning to run? What compression? What cam timing and intended power band? What application? Fast road, khana, rally, hillclimb, circuit? <--- tick all that apply if you're running <1800cc and <7000rpm i would be hesitant to open up the ports and bowls too much you don't want to compromise intake charge velocity, fuel dropout and poor VE (lousy cylinder filling) can result amongst other things you definately won't need to worry about meat in the head around the ports and bowls for your app on 3T-C head unless you're trying to take heaps out for: > very high rpm OR > serious forced induction OR > serious displacement increase OR > combination of the above hope this helps as for running injection, i'd be getting a redline dual DCOE manifold, efihardware.com or injection perfection throttle bodies/fuel rail kit, and going that way for fuel injection on your project all off the shelf, bolt up and someone to go back to if it winds up smegged. going custom yourself means your dick in your hand if something goes wrong and can be more expensive than just buying the right stuff in the first place.

i cannot believe thisthread is still here