Redwarf

It doesn't matter who owns the car. If you can't drive it, you can't drive it. If your in Qld and don't have it engineered, it's go to court time for him, and loss of license for you.

1974 Celica= TA22 2t 1600. I think.

No, it shouldn't.I've used very similar clutches in the past, and found them very user friendly. The sprung centre makes them really usable and effective, without having the "on/off" effect a full button has. I firmly endorse this product/ event. :)

Did the job yesterday. wife took camera to work so photo's are 2mp phone variety. When I get off my fat rectum and download them, I'll do the right-up. :)

Probably not. 25 doors are an inch or so shorter in height than a 20.

IMHO 185/60-13's would be too small on a 70. I had them on a 25, because thats the logical-next-size-up for one of them. 205/60's would be a good size, and a more preferable rolling diameter than the 185's. I had 205/60 on a 5.5 rim, so 6" shouldn't be a problem.

Nssan Pulsar N13-ish (I think) was a reasonable fit with very minimal mods. I mounted mine to the existing shroud holes....

A brief search using "short shifter" would have netted you this: http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=17023 Can't buy them AFAIK, but they can be made.

Yep, don't be greedy. One thread is enough. :y:

No. Use only matched crown wheel and pinions. Can't mix and match.

Can you say the word "custom"? I doubt very much whether anything is going to bolt in here. I could be proven wrong, but you're going to be up for custom mounts, hydraulic clutch conversion, and probably custom gearbox crossmember. It wont "drop in".

^^^^^^ As above. Ran a pretty hot 2TG through one and it coped well.

Nope. It's different AFAIK.

Dude, you're going to get arse raped with a turbo anyway.......

No, on just about all accounts. You just change the rotor, not the hub when you do the change over. No requirement for changing the rears or the master. I generally change the master anyway to a dual system and do away with the standard, just for safety sake. Have never put a booster in, have never seen the point. The cars weigh stuff all, and pull up fine without. Have raced a 25 for years without one. I'm doing the conversion on Redke20's on Tuesday, and will be doing a "how to" after, so stay tuned. :) R

Having two cars without sound deadening, I ask, why in God's name to you want to pull it out?? I can tell you almost to the gram what weight saving it's going to be, and it's not that much, and if you're going to leave the carpet in as well, no real point.

You Sth Australians will easily be able to spot Leslie now. She'll be the one dragging her hand along the ground due to the weight of the rocks on her fingers..... :)

What do you define as worked? cc's? Cam? head? At a guess, 40mm Webers or Dellortos, 32 mm chokes, dyno time. Expect to rebuild any second hand carbs, and don't expect to get out of it for less than $1000 if you want to do it properly. Don't expect fuel economy. Do expect great induction noise, torque and decent hp.

Well, it's not a 1970 for a start. It's worth what someone will give you for it. Depending on the rust situation, between $500 and $1500. Don't expect the wheels to bump up the price.

Vote 1 : studs and nuts. I'd forgotten that you could actually use bolts......

Or you could be undodgy and come to the house of Dwarf and get it done properly. :D That wasn't Batch's was it??

One word: Dyno. If you put the Webers on and haven't dyno'd it, I've found your problem. I ran twin 40's on a 3K sucessfully, 5K shouldn't be an issue.

Ahhhh Grasshopper, this been covered many time...... You bolt the 30/55 rotor to you 25 hub (thus keeping 4 x 110). You use the 30/55 backing plate (which the caliper mounts to), but you have to redrill and tap the holes in the strut that the backing plate mounts to from m8 to m10x1.25 (intermediate thread). Bolt 30/55 caliper to backing plate. If we do ke20red's and I'm involved I'll take piccies and do a how-to at some point. Not hard to do.

What sort of car are we talking about?? I believe the Ford Edsel is quite easy to lower.........

You have an early 20: drums or discs on the front? I ran the 30/55 upgrade for years, and they were quite adequate. They don't have a booster, so effort will be more than a boosted system, however I always liked this for the feel. I can talk to you next week about the 30/55 brakes (no need to change stud pattern). At a pinch you can do it here, as there's a small bit of engineering you have to do.