ScottKE1X

I'm going to follow this build. Got any interior photos? Are you missing anything?

Todd, I'm going to be re-drilling some ae86 camber tops for my ke10. I have the camber tops and in theory it all looks like it will work, but I have not got around to it yet. don't expect to get much movement in the strut unless you go coilovers with a small dia spring...

Yeah but Has anyone actually had any of these wheels you speak of though? I've seen the mazda van rims in 15 but never anything 14". And they were like only 4" wide. Plenty of 13" 4x110. Saabs are 4x108.

You need to get 14" steelies off a celica or corona and get them re-drilled to suit 4x110. The only standard rims that fit 4x110 in a 14 inch from factory are original Mazda R100 stockies so getting some others re-drilled will actually be the easier and cheaper option. Where are you located?

looking good. as far as i've ever known twin carbs only came on 3k-b (unless they did a 4k-b) i have two air filters housings but only one looks genuine, the other one fits just as well. I assumed it might have been from an early twin carb ford laser or something. maybe there is an alternative?? anyone?

They're on ebay now, Nicks car is the example picture. here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COROLLA-KE26-SIDE-REAR-VENETIAN-BLINDS-AUTO-SHADES-/370911986886?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565c13c4c6&_uhb=1

I'm following every post, just don't comment. Keep at it you're motivting me to get my ke10 build started!

Even now it only clears the caster rods by a few mm. I'd say they would be on contact when cornering but it doesnt seem to have any negative effects... PM me if you want more info or photos.

I just put a Ta22 bar onto my ke20. I had a minor issue with the bend in the return leg on each side of the swaybar fouling on the caster rods but I got around it by using slightly longer link bolts and bushes. I have king springs but everything else is 100% standard. Maybe the RA23 bar would have been a better fit? I would have gone the aftermarket bar if there was one available... makes a noticeable improvement, I have a hillclimb this weekend so will know more after that.

Definitely go with the Enki's! Or better yet, go with the mazda rims and sell the Enki's to me. The big question is how do they fit on the front??

Neither, pcd it's 4x110

Not local but maybe Try this website: http://twosrus.com/catalog/index.php Looks to specialise in Mr2 parts and sells KYB and Koni. I got the link from Mr2 forum Reed posted above, never delt with them myself...

We call them "Frank Specials" They're either Celica or Corona 14" Stock wheels with holes welded up and re-drilled to 4x110. If you want a set he may have some for sale right now. PM me if interested. The Hubcaps are Crown MS55 or similar. There are some here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271200133683?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

My 1969 ke10-B had them but I welded them over as they were rusted out. If you pealed the roof lining back on the inside you would be able to see the inside of the pillar and see if they've been welded or bogged. As Tom said above, if it is a ke11 they are supposed to be there. The vents themselves are plastic and I think they're painted black from factory??

List what parts your after and people will let you know if they can help. Better still, make a post in the Wanted section.

So glad you have put the trims back on. Looking awesome. Sway bar looks to goods, let us know how it goes after some spirited driving :)

If you do chuck it on, keep us posted. Then tell Whiteline to make them all shorter to start with for the rest of us ;)

Stweart Ford has done this conversion in his ke15. I found a quote from him on the web "drill out the crush tubes to the larger bolt size in the chassis rail, weld up a mount for the top of the column, in similar way to how the KE20 does (ie allowing the top of the tube to crush down), and then fit KE10 pitman arm" Sounds easy enough...

Philbey is right, When I changed to to a ke55 k50 in my ke11 I used the front yoke from the ke55 tailshaft and bought a new uni-joint (i have a part number somewhere) and put it on the existing manual ke11 tailshaft. I just did it myself. Alex Bates did a step-by-step write up on everything needed to put a 5k into a ke10 years ago... I have it somewhere but you could probably find it on the web somewhere. Good thing is nothing has changed even if it was 10+ years ago. Try searching the oldcorollas yahoo group.

I've read a post about this car elsewhere on the net. Good to have you on Rollaclub, must be the only Drift ke10 in the world??

Just a heads up, I did ke70 discs on my ke11 and you need to re-drill and tap new thread for the caliper mount. iirc you need to use the ke70 caliper mounts as the ke70 disc dia is different to ke55... Can someone confirm? I did this a long time ago now. I just use ke20 discs and calipers if you can find them as the difference in braking was insignificant. Cheers

Hey Mike, Its funny that I've read this thread a few times and it didnt even click when I saw the car thursday night... I may be wrong but I believe you can have a harness in a road car as long as you are still using the actual factory seat belt as well... I guess you can get done for too many seatbelts? Cheers, Scott.

Nice and low! how did you go about doing the front end? Looks good... whats the ride feel like? Scott.

Strut towel is not cut, thats a wire. Amazing job, any power figures?? I guess I'm asking - besides the coolness factor, was it worth the effort?

nice work Gav, keen to see how you go with this one...