Raven

Read post #3 dude.....

Gonna do something about that rear bar? Or front bar? Depends which way you wanna go :(

And if you guys are getting bad weather, we're sure to get it :(

End of the year! When summer kicks in so its nice to cruise :(

I havent gotten around to it yet, but I have your email Chief. Will do it this week sometime when I get a chance!

When the weather is better I will be organising a cruise, but that wont happen till the 36 is on the road!

I know what the dates are Tatey :P but a solid, set in concrete date is required as once I book holidays, I can't retract them if the date so happens to change.

Just gimme a solid date so I can book it before anyone else books the time off work :P

If Mel doesnt come down you probably will be. The nanna needs to get his arse to this one as well. His absence needs to be taken care of!

The Irwin Product is called Bolt-Grip Sockets. There is a base 5-piece set and then a 5-piece expansion set. Clicky Here!

Its not always a tell-tale sign of milky oil residue under the cap or bubbles in the radiator. If it blows between a water jacket and the cylinder you'll more than likely get bubbles, but not always. Damp exhaust gases (test by putting your hand near the exhaust while running on initial start up) is one way to determine if its blown through a water jacket. If its between cylinders, then it'll run rough. Have you tried taking the spark plug out and attaching it to the lead and earthing it to see if the plug is getting spark at all? Better still, where are you located? If you're not too far away I can come have a look if you want a second opinion?

You'll have a cammed twin carbed 5K to contend with by the looks of it too Daz!

No chance in transferring rego if its defected. Good for parts or make sure its schmick and get it passed before you sell it.

If you can that would be great. :P PM me when you've got 'em all done and on your PC and i'll get you to email them through to me. Cheers!

All good. :bash: I should chuck it in a tech article somewhere, but I'd need pictures to go with it and my pair of corollas are a half hour drive away :P

Ok, here's how you do it as per my workshop manual. 1. Turn key to accessory position 2. Insert a pin (paperclip works too by the way) into the hole at the side of the key cylinder and whilst holding a gentle pressure towards the anti-clockwise direction, push in the spring loaded plunger with the pin. 3. Remove the barrel and key assembly Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. There ya go. Pretty simple. :P

Gimme two ticks to go through my workshop manual and get the instructions for you. Just because I'm one of those guys who like to help and all :P

Are you wanting to remove just the ignition barrell or the housing? Because it seems to me that what you're referring to is the shear bolts, which you have to cut off to remove the lock housing from the steering column.

Jack is living on my computer desk right now...... but he's slowly leaving his home and migrating into my empty glass! :P

Sounds hektik!

No probs. Let me know your price and we'll go from there. :P

Watch this space :P

I've bent a pushrod before revving the ring out of an old 3K motor. Unhook you accelerator/choke cables, undo the two nuts on top of the rocker cover and remove it and check to see if a pushrod is just sitting there doing nothing.

If you think you can find KE25 parts, good luck! I can't even get a dash for the KE36 and its a one piece job.

Which model KE? So I went for a wrecker run today and found another LPG safety cut that I'm using for my electric fuel pump. I fitted it up and it all works, except I still have no spark so I'll have to go back and check the wiring this weekend and see how I go from there on in.