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Raven

Regular Member
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Everything posted by Raven

  1. Is that from experience? ;)
  2. Haha, that was interesting! Might hit the torrent sites later so I can watch it again. Seems like they fixed up the blue patch that I gave it!
  3. Raven replied to SLW42's topic in Rides - non-Toyota
    I used to street drift mine back in the day.... The front handbrake cable was kaput, so I used to weight transfer it and yes, they can slide, even an XE can slide haha. I think I may still have the EL handbrake assembly around that I was gonna mod to fit into it if you wanna get rid of the umbrella styles :P
  4. Raven replied to SLW42's topic in Rides - non-Toyota
    Looks tidy! I once had an EA S pack manual, fitted with an EB 4.0l MPFI engine after I threw out the CFI job and an ED XR8 LSD and riding on Pedders Sports Suspension and Swaybars. Had it dynoed with a stock exhaust and made 108.4rwkw, which I thought wasnt too bad. Whats your plans?
  5. Thats fine with me. I should be running the front mount and more boost by then :)
  6. Siiiiiiiiiick mateeeeeeee! I look forward to a ride next year!
  7. Well, hurry the hell up and get started dude :P
  8. Done and done. Let me know when you two are sorted and we'll do both on the day.
  9. Do you want some proper pics done at a location of your choice at some point Ryan?
  10. Haha, gold!
  11. I wonder if JZX81/90 gear will fit up....
  12. That Damien Walters one, thats almost Parkour style. Tom, check this one out:
  13. They stiffen up well, thats for sure. The CST stands for Circuit Spec Tune and they came with my car. If you're doing heavy track work, I'd suggest TEIN or Cusco or something along those lines with a more solid spring rate. My fronts are 10kg and the rears are 8kg,
  14. I'm running CST Zero-1 in the Chaser. can't compare them to anything else as I havent used anything else but they're reasonably stiff (not sure on spring rates), 15-way adjustable via clickers on the top and of course, height adjustable too.
  15. Says the man who rides a road bike and drives an AE82 :lolcry:
  16. I don't have one. Where did I say they were a "cut above the rest"? I merely stated for ease of tuning, a PowerFC is the way to go. 5 minutes found these: Autospeed Review PowerFC on the Nengun Performance Website
  17. Super expensive for that PowerFC without the Commander, but I guess thats what the Takumi Tax brings when its an AE86. Overpriced? I can pick one up for around $1000-$1100 shipped, so not all that expensive really :) And yes, bigger turbos and more boost amps up the power, but you also need the ECU to support it. If I wanted to support an Australian product, I'd buy a Commodore or Falcon (shudders), not a Chaser.
  18. You mean, anything is better than an EMS ;) At least a PowerFC is fairly easily tuned and they plug straight into the factory harness with no messing about rewiring things. Personally though, if I had to rewire a car to run a stand-alone engine management system, I'd be going either Haltech or Motec (for the fact that the latter can be easily engineered). My tuner can easily pull 300rwkw out of a 1JZGTE VVTi Factory Single Turbo engine with just a PowerFC and pulls more out of the non-VVTi version. Who knows what he can pull out of a Single or Twin Turbo 2JZ. I'll have to ask him. :)
  19. Less yabberin' and more workin' fool!
  20. I would've gone a PowerFC over an EMS, but hey, your choice :) Good to see its all working....now for the skid vids!
  21. Raven replied to wagon80's topic in SA / Adelaide
    Haha, harsh? Never! Just make sure that CA18 is running decent oil pressure or you're gonna have problems :)
  22. Raven replied to wagon80's topic in SA / Adelaide
    A real engine is a 1JZ/2JZ, not a dirty Neesan motor :P
  23. Needs more brap! :P
  24. From an Automotive Parts Interpreters point of view who sells oil to mechanics on a daily basis and has to look up the correct grade/rating: Its not so much of a worry in an older vehicle as the older they are (we're talking 60's to early 80's) the average family hack wasnt performance orientated. You wouldnt be putting a fully synthetic oil in one of these, nor a semi-synthetic. Minieral based is how the oil was in those days. Once you start playing with twin-cam, fuel injected and turbo motors, they start producing a lot more power, therefore the right oil with the right ratings should be used. Good examples: Datsun/Toyota/Suzuki/Ford/Holden - Early 60's to Mid 80's - If not rebuilt, go by KM's the engine has travelled, engine condition (does it blow smoke?) etc A lot of early European cars still require the right oil (BMW 2002) for example, so you can't go with the above. Buting anything performance orientated (4AGE, 1JZ/2JZ, CA18(DET), SR20(DET)) and similar, including the Euro cars, you're going to want to put the right spec oil in the car. A few of links for you to check out, if you're interested in looking up oils for specific cars: Fuchs Netlube Castrol Netlube Valvoline Netlube These will tell you the correct grade of oil to use in whatever vehicle you select. Enjoy! :)

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