Raven

So find a Toyota Lexcen and drop the engine in :D

No updates this weekend. The old man decided that dropping his 1978 Honda CX500 by accident while moving it was a good idea..... So I spent yesterday afternoon finding a clutch lever for it and by the time his bike was serviced and tuned by myself (bar coolant change which he will do during the week himself) it was too late to get anything done. Always next weekend!

To start with - What model of car? Have you had the flywheel machined? Did it have a step in it prior to machining? If not, does it have one now? Have you put the clutch friction plate in back to front? Right clutch release bearing installed? It could be many things and those are things you need to check.

Tridon Online Parts Catalogue I'm an automotive parts interpreter by trade. If you're wanting to know what sensor/sender is what, click the above link, enter in all your car details and hit search. Once its loaded up, click on the corresponding part number and it will show you a picture of what is what. You should be able to work out which one it is. Personally I think its the thermo fan switch earthing itself out, causing your fans to be on all the time as the water temp sender would only cause the car to run rich or lean, depending on the failure. The reason I think that it is the thermo fan switch is because my 5K was doing the same thing, until I swapped out the thermo fan switch with a new one from Tridon and all problems are now fixed. :D Hope this helps!

Go to ATAP. Never ever buy a second hand clutch slave cylinder unless you're looking at re-sleeving it otherwise its going to be a complete waste of time.

You can get anti-pump up hydraulic lifters if you're wanting to rev over 8000rpm anyway. I'm stickin' with the hydraulics in my 5K. :D

Good work :D

Nah, you need to paint it dude. You'll kick yourself if you put it all back together and then see the end result. It doesnt look good!

And.........updates? Howd you go getting the oil pressure sorted?

And for the record.... Shorten the bump stops. Don't remove them completely!

And start from the furthest most wheel from the brake master cylinder. So you should be bleeding as follows: Rear Left Rear Right Front Left Front Right That way you drain the majority of the old fluid first and leave the good stuff in the lines when it comes to doing the other wheels in the aforementioned sequence. That way you don't use excess fluid :rolls:

I've seen new pumps shit themselves, or the wrong clearances causing it to be ineffective at circulating the coolant before. I'd put my money on that or even a head gasket that hasnt been torqued down properly allowing coolant to escape in the form of steam. :rolls: Double check your head bolts!

That sir, was quite lame. Then again, I was never a Simpsons fan :)

^^^^^ I second that. I also second the panel van/wagon cruise! Count me in when I'm done! Looks the goods in that pic too!

JDM is purely what the wannabe's call a certain styling term in my books. My 25 has all the bolt on flares copied up from a TE27 and a front lip for it, but it will never be JDM when its gonna have a 12A Rotary powering it. The styling will be reminiscent of a Japanese Domestic Market car, but it wont be pure JDM. No fender mirrors for me!

Flasher relays work by how many watts in total your system is putting out under full load from memory (I may be slightly off with that, don't quote it!) These KE2x and import KE3x ones are odd. Can't remember why an off the shelf one never worked as I tried your current suggestion with running some extension tails with connectors on each end and they just wouldn't flash at all. The dry joints in the flasher relay was the issue I had. Maybe Mr. Medicine_Man can shed some more light on the workings of a flasher relay on an early Corolla for us both :P

No probs. Let us know how it goes and if it fixes it. :P

You'd be suprised. :P

I'll never trust those jiggle valves. Ever. Fill her up and let her idle until everything starts expanding and overflowing. Squeeze the top hose to get any air out while its expanding and top it up. The only other thing could actually be a dodgy impeller on the water pump, which is a possibility.

I've always used a coping saw. Just make sure you cut a straight line or you'll stuff it up good and proper!

Did you bleed the cooling system to remove any air pockets? Tried swapping over the temp sensor for a known one that works (old motor perhaps)? Blocked radiator may also be an issue. Reverse flush it and see how you go.

Genuine item only unfortunately. But before you go buying a new one which will probably be in excess of $100 ex-Japan from Toyota, pry open the factory relay casing and run over the solder joints with a soldering iron, heating them up and letting them cool down and plug it back in. This got my old KE36 flasher relay working and it may or may not help with your indicator issue. Its free and worth a try!

Thats around the corner from work. Not even a 5 minute walk ;)

Tried it yourself have you Matt? ;)

Not much to report except today was reasonably successful. - I realigned the steering box reasonably closely. Will need a wheel alignment anyway. - I flipped over the splash shield. Cheers for the heads up on that one Felix! Excuse the dody exhaust fix for the moment. Its purely to keep the noise down! - I even fixed the starting issue! I did everything bar the bolt for the fuel line! ;) That's next weekends progress when the rear bar comes off and the body work starts!